Daily Archives: August 8, 2016

Barnabus Frost, Pirate Captain: Figure 233 of 266

Chris Palmer

   This week I finished up the Pirates set by painting the Barnabus Frost, Pirate Captain, figure.  This set now joins the list of completed sets over on the right.
      I prepped the figure in the usual way; soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then I gave it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsed and dried it.  Next, I glued the figure to a black-primed 1" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then glued the washer-mounted figure to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of the Elmer’s glue.

First I painted his face and hands withAmericana “Shading Flesh”.  I then painted his coat with Ceramcoat “Black Cherry”, and his pants with Crafter’s Acrylic “Bright Blue”.

Next I painted the facings on his coat and his vest with Crafters Acrylic “Bright Yellow”.  I then painted his boot tops with Americana “Terra Cotta”,  and then his beard with Folk Art “Platinum Grey”.  I used Crafter’s Acrylic “Deep Red” to paint his sash, and then used Accent “Golden Harvest” to paint his compass case, key ring, and buckles.  Then I painted his pistol with Crafter’s Acrylic “Cinnamon Brown”.

I painted his compass case, key ring, and buckles with "Bronze".  Then, when everything had a while to dry, I gave the entire figure a wash with Citadel “Agrax Earthshade”, using a wet brush.  When the wash was dry, I painted his boots, pouch, and belts with Black

     Next, I painted his eyes, and then highlighted his skin; first with the “Shading Flesh”, and then with some of the “Shading Flesh” mixed with a little Crafter’s Acrylic “Flesh”. I then highlighted his hair and beard with the “Platinum Grey”, and then with Crafter’s Acrylic “Light Antique White”.   I used Crafter’s Acrylic “Daffodil Yellow” to highlight his facings and vest, and painted his sword blade with Americana “Neutral Grey”.

     I then highlighted his coat with Americana “Burgundy Wine”, and his pants with a mix of the “Bright Blue” and Crafter’s Acrylic “Cool Blue”.  Next, I highlighted his sash with Ceramcoat “Bright Red”, and his boots, pouch and belts with Citadel “The Fang”.   I then painted his sword with Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”.  While that was drying, I painted all his buttons with the “Bronze”, then highlighted all the parts I had painted “Bronze” with Ceramcoat “14K Gold”, and then did further highlights with Ceramcoat “Wedding Gold”.  I then went back snd highlighted his sword with Folk Art Silver Sterling".  Lastly, I painted the entire  base with Americana “Mississippi Mud”.
      After the figure had overnight to dry, I gave it a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”.   The next morning I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote.

   I’m happy with how this old salty dog turned out.  And, happy to get another completed set under my belt.  Next up, I will be finishing the last four Orcpoclaypse figures, and then the remaining two Townsfolk figures.

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Pulp Science Fiction Fighters

Buck

This weekend I completed a unit of alien-looking fighters from War-games Supply Dump.  This is part of my ongoing build up of forces for using Combat Patrol for science fiction games, both hard science fiction and pulp science fiction.

I like the way these figures came out.  I primed them in white, because I had thought I might paint them in traditional white space suits, but I decided I wanted something a little more colorful to go with those nice green faces.

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Sally 4th Norman Church

Buck

I completed the Sally 4th Norman church this weekend.  The kit was in some ways more involved and in some ways less difficult than the corner shops I described in an earlier blog post.  A challenge I have with kit building is a distinct lack of patience.  The Sally 4th kits have clear, step-by-step instructions, but I still made a couple of rookie mistakes by jumping ahead and not being patient.  The final result, I think, is quite nice.

From this shot you can see that the windows are translucent stained glass printed on plastic and ready to cut out and glue to the windows.  These are made even more attractive by the glazing and the brick framing.  Also, you can see that all the building comes with doors.  In this case, I made hinges from masking tape.

I like the buttresses along the older section of wall.  These buildings take less time to construct and overlay the photorealistic sheets of paper than to assemble and paint a traditional MDF building.  Even this buildings that come “pre painted” don’t look nearly as good as these when completed.

You can see the main entrance to the church from the tower.  With this one I had a little trouble getting to roof to fit.  It was a little too snug, but I was able to address this with a little bit of sanding on one end of the roof.  No difficulty!

The kit even comes with photorealistic appliqués for the entire inside of the church.  I really like the look of the brick floor.  I typically don’t bother to paint the interiors of my buildings, but with the photorealistic appliqués, making the inside look nice was a snap.

One of the attractive features for me is the fact that the church comes with three different tops for the tower to represent three different historical periods.

As with the other photorealistic Sally 4th buildings, there are no exposed tabs.  This helps them look terrific on the table.

In summary, I think the kit is a terrific value.  The final result of assembly and gluing the photorealistic appliqués was better than any other MDF building I have constructed.  It looks better than pre-painted buildings, and it took less time to get ready for gaming than if I had had to paint the building myself.  I enjoy painting terrain pieces, but this is a very easy way to get a terrific effect on the gaming table, and I can divert my limited painting time to figures, while still creating a nice looking table.

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