Quick and Easy Cardboard Game Piece Frame Sci-Fi Building Ruins.

Chris Palmer    So a while back I saw someone’s blog entry where they made some neat Sci-Fi ruins out of the cardboard frames that are left over after you punch game counters out of them, and ever since I’ve been looking for an opportunity to try it.  Then I was with a friend a while back who was punching out the counters for his newly purchased copy of the Congo ruleset, and I asked if I could have the remaining cardboard frame left after all the counters are punched out.

     I first cut the frames into sections to look like partially destroyed walls, and glued them on to 6" x 6" cork tiles.  I made one 6" x 12" base by gluing two of the cork tiles together, in order to make one larger building.  I then added a few odds and ends to the walls using some dollar store lego and other plastic bits.

 I first gave them a base coat of some old Army Painter “Necrotic Flesh” I had on hand.

     When that was dry, I gave the ruins some burst sprays of some Krylon “Aqua” Sea Glass paint I had been wanting to try out.  I think it gave an interesting “alien” effect.

     I then painted the slabs with Americana “Terra Cotta”.   I think it adds to the alien look.

    I added some other colors here and there to the detail bits I glued on earlier.  Then I slathered the ruins in some Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash, using a wet brush.  When that was dry, I drybrushed them with Americans “Bleached Sand”.   Lastly, I sprayed them with some matte varnish.

Shown with some Reaper 28mm Sci-Fi figures for scale.

     I’m really happy with how these turned out.  They are’t too complicated or detailed, but I think they’ll look good on the table.   I especially like that they’re made from what would have been trash. 🙂

via One More Gaming Project http://ift.tt/2oFmZpa
from Tumblr http://ift.tt/2pceuk8
via IFTTT

Zombies Come to Harford Mall

Buck

The HAWKs supported the Harford Community College gaming day, HARCON, this past weekend.  The theme for HARCON this year was zombies.  Last year we changed our model for supporting HARCON.  In the past we ran a handful of games, but we found that many folks at the convention didn’t want to devote four hours to a miniatures game.  Last year we set up a large French and Indian Wars game so that a player could take a small group and execute a short, one-hour mission.  That worked well for us last year.  This year we set up the zombie shopping mall that we built as a club project in addition to a convenience store (“stop and rob”) and parking lot.  When players wanted to join the game, we gave them a survivor group and told them to gather supplies.

A view of the zombie mall before the carnage began along with the HAWKs who orchestrated the event.

A view of the zombie mall before the carnage began along with the HAWKs who orchestrated the event. (Picture courtesy Greg Priebe)

We used G.A.S.L.I.G.H.T. as the rules for the game.  When players searched an area, they made a Save roll.  If successful, they drew a random supply chit.  Each chit had a certain number of “victory points” as well as an “encumbrance.”  Encumbrance was depicted as a reduction in the movement allowance of the figure carrying it.  There was no maximum number of supplies a figure could carry, but eventually figures moved pretty slowly as a result of all the stuff they were carrying.

Bruce, the big winner for the day, quietly gathered up supplies while herding zombies toward the inexperienced players.

Bruce, the big winner for the day, quietly gathered up supplies while herding zombies toward the inexperienced players.

A view of the area around the stop and rob.

A view of the area around the stop and rob.

Many of the HAWKs engaging in zombie squashing.

Many of the HAWKs engaging in zombie squashing.

Part of the table including the downed helicopter and the the stunned survivors waiting to be escorted to safety or eaten.

Part of the table including the downed helicopter and the the stunned survivors waiting to be escorted to safety or eaten.

Survivor groups included the Scooby Gang, The A-Team, the Ghostbusters, police, Boy Scouts, Mountain Folk, corporate women in high heels with guns, rampaging nuns, and others.  It enabled the players to choose a gang thats or too fit their personality and then play for an hour.

BA Barracas and Hannibal Smith duking it out with a mob of zombies.

BA Barracas and Hannibal Smith duking it out with a mob of zombies.

When the smoke cleared, we had about twelve players join us for an hour to 90 minutes, including a number of people who had never played miniatures.

Two young ladies joined the game along with their mom.

Two young ladies joined the game along with their mom.

 

from Buck’s Blog http://ift.tt/2oEAmkS
via IFTTT
from Tumblr http://ift.tt/2ooZY9Q
via IFTTT

HAWKs Host Huge Zombie Mall Game at Har-Con

Chris Palmer      This past Saturday, the HAWKs attended the HAR-CON convention put on by the Gamers Guild and Anime Club at Harford Community College, the local county’s community college.  This con is a multi-genre con, with video games, role-playing games, card games, board games, miniatures games, anime, and cosplay.   This year’s theme was Post-Apocalypse and Zombies, so we decided to run our big Zombie Mall game.
     With the success of last year’s large French and Indian War game, we decided we would once again make our main effort a large game where interested gamers could come to the table at any time, be assigned a group of survivors and a mission, and enter into the game with one of the HAWKs to help tutor them in the rules, and then leave whenever they wanted.

     We arrived early to set up, and it wasn’t long before we had our first players.  As the day continued we were pleased with the number of folks who stopped by to play, and the consensus was that we had more players this year than in years past.  Attendance at the con as a whole also seemed to be really high.
      Buck Surdu and I, as co-authors of the Zombies by GASLIGHT supplement,  were also asked to take part in a panel discussion on the Post-Apocalypse theme, along with a local author and film-maker.

       The club had a great time as usual, and we are looking forward to returning for another big extravaganza game next year.

     Another HAWKs run game at the con was Kevin Fischer’s Sci-Fi Alien Invasion Game using his beautiful collection of 1/144 Gundam models.

via One More Gaming Project http://ift.tt/2q7hADH
from Tumblr http://ift.tt/2psGpxx
via IFTTT

Bloodhoof, Minotaur Barbarian: Bones 2 Figure

Chris Palmer

     This past week I took a break from Gnolls and worked on another beastman figure for our upcoming Frostgrave game: Bloodhoof, Minotaur Barbarian, from the Beast Mode set.
      I prepped the figure in the usual way; soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.    I then glued the figure to a black-primed 1.5" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then glued the washer-mounted figure to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of the Elmer’s glue.

     I began by giving the figure a wash with heavily thinned Reaper “Brown Liner” using a wet brush.  When that was dry, I painted his skin with Games Workshop “Vermin Brown”.  I then painted his head and leg fur with Crafter’s Acrylic “Cinnamon Brown”, and his loin cloth with Ceramcoat “Territorial Beige”.

      Next, I painted all his straps and one of his belts with Americana “Raw Umber”. I painted the other belt  with Folk Art “Teddy Bear Brown”, and then painted the axe handle and a patch of material on his shoulder with Folk Art “Dark Brown”.   After that, I painted his horns with Folk Art Platinum Grey", and then painted his hooves, and the base with Americana “Charcoal Grey”. I worked on the base colors for the metal next, painting his axe head and some of his armor bits with Americana “Zinc”, and then painting his nose ring, arm band, and some of the other armor with Accent “Mustard Seed”.

      I then repainted the parts I had painted the “Zinc” using Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”; and repainted the parts I had painted with the “Mustard Seed using Ceramcoat "Bronze”.  Then, when everything had a while to dry, I gave the entire figure a wash with Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash using a wet brush.   When the wash was dry, I highlighted his skin with a mix of Americana “terra Cotta” and the “Vermin Brown”.  After that, I highlighted his head and lower legs with Americana “Sable Brown”.  I painted his eyes with Accent “RealUmber”, and added tiny white dots to each.

     Next, I highlighted his loin cloth with Folk Art “Butter Pecan”,  and then highlighted the straps, and the axe handle, with Americana “Mississippi Mud”.  I also blended in some black to the ends of his horns. I then worked on the metallics; highlighting the axe and armor that I had originally painted with the “Gunmetal Grey” using Ceramcoat “Metallic Silver”, and the parts I had painted with the “Bronze”, using Ceramcoat “14K Gold”.
      When I was done painting the figure, I used some white glue to glue a little sand to the base.  When this was dry, I painted the sand with the “Charcoal Grey”, and when the paint was dry, I drybrushed the base with some of the Territorial Beige", and then some Americana “Antique White”.
    I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave him a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed him with Testor’s Dullcote".

     I like how he turned out.  It’s nothing exciting, but a nice solid gaming figure. I’m going to try to finish up his partner the Minotaur Hero figure next week before returning to the Gnolls.

via All Bones About It http://ift.tt/2pXEaCg
from Tumblr http://ift.tt/2q7aJKy
via IFTTT

Two Gnoll Warriors: Bones 2 Figures

Chris Palmer

  This past week I painted two of the Gnoll Warriors from the Bones II  24 Bonus Figures set.
  I prepped these figures in the usual way; soaking them in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving them a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying them.  I then glued the figures to black-primed 1.5" fender washers with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then glued the washer-mounted figures to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of the Elmer’s glue under each washer.

     I began by painting their armor all Black, and when it was dry I drybrushed it with  Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”.  I then passed over the armor with a lighter drybrush of Folk Art “Silver Sterling”.    Next, I painted heir fur with Apple Barrel “Rock Grey”, and then painted their manes and the end of their tails with Accent “Golden Oxide”.

     I then painted their kilts with Anita’s “Burnt Sienna”, and then did the inside of their shield backs with Folk Art “Teddy Bear Brown”. After that, I painted all their straps and belts with Americana “Bittersweet Chocolate”, and then painted the handle of their morning stars with Reaper MSP “Turkey Brown” and their teeth with Americana “Antique White”.

   Next, I painted alternating stripe patterns on their shields with  Ceramcoat “Black Cherry”, and Apple Barrel “Yellow”.  I then painted the shield metalwork, and the morning star metal parts with Americana Zinc.  After that, I painted the patch of material under the strap on their left shoulder blade and the wraps on their feet, with Nicole’s “Brown”.

     I then repainted the shield metalwork, and morning star metal parts with the “Gunmetal Grey”, and then let everything dry for a while.  When I returned to the figures, I gave them both a wash with Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash using a wet brush.    When the wash was dry, I highlighted their fur with Folk Art “Platinum Grey”, and their manes, and the end of their tails, with Americana “Tangerine”.  After that, I painted their muzzles, noses, eyes, claws, and the bases, Black.

      Next, I highlighted their kilts with Americans “Shading Flesh”, and then painted the stitching on the kilts with Americana “Khaki Tan”. After that, I highlighted all the straps and belts with Americana “Sable Brown”, and then highlighted the front of the shields with Reaper MSP “Holly Berry” for the red stripes, and Reaper MSP “Golden Glow” on the yellow stripes.   I then highlighted the handle of the morning stars and the feet wraps with Folk Art “Butter Pecan”, and then did the teeth with Crafter’s Acrylic “Light Antique White”.  I then went back over the metal parts adding highlights with Ceramcoat “Metallic Silver”.
     Lastly, I used some white glue to glue a little sand to the bases.  When this was dry, I painted it all Black.  When the Black was dry, I drybrushed it, and the Gnolls’ bases, with Americana “Neutral Grey”, and then some Folk Art “Platinum Grey”.      I let the figures dry overnight and the next day I gave them a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed them with Testor’s Dullcote".

   I’m real happy with these two fellows.  I’ve got two more from this set to finish now, in order to complete all the Gnolls that came with Bones II.  I’m looking forward to taking a group shot of all of them when I’m done.

via All Bones About It http://ift.tt/2oiC63E
from Tumblr http://ift.tt/2nW7hpA
via IFTTT

ZombieSmith Alien Types

Buck

My parents got me a bunch of the ZombieSmith aliens for Christmas, and I just got around to painting them.  Here they are:

This is the crew of a space ship, hence the uniforms.  The figures on the end got a little dunked up by the dull coat, but when I sprayed them again, they came out just fine.

I don’t even know what half this stuff is supposed to be, but they were fun to paint.

The guy second from the left is from Planet Rastafaria.  You can see what he looks like from behind in the picture below.

One of these looks like a professor I had once.

The figure on the right is not Zombie Smith, but it was in the bin with the ZombieSmith figures, so I painted it.

The figure on the left wasn’t ZombieSmith either, but I don’t know where it came from or what it is.  The one on the right is just weird.

from Buck’s Blog http://ift.tt/2pKvZpf
via IFTTT
from Tumblr http://ift.tt/2pKrH0V
via IFTTT

Slave2Gaming Alien Invaders

Buck

Invader wearing Alien "armor"

Invader wearing Alien “armor.” Why is it that everyone sees a dead Alien as a badge of honor? Since there was an Alien skull on the interior of a space ship in the second Predator movie, this seems to be iconic.

I recently received these alien invader figures from Slave2Gaming, which is an Australian outfit.  Their service was excellent, by the way.  I had a limited amount of painting time this weekend, so I was looking for something I could knock out quickly.

A squad of Invaders

A squad of Invaders

I primed them black and then sprayed them silver.  Then I applied a Citadel Nuln Oil wash.  I still have no idea what the heck a Nuln is or why it needs to be oiled, but is a pretty good black wash.

Invader leaders

Invader leaders

From many of my earlier blob posts you can see that I typically avoid the temptation to make all aliens green, but these guys were just crying to have green skin.  Though they had nice big eyes that would allow easy painting of pupils, I decided that the figures looked much more alien without them.

Invader heavy weapons

Invader heavy weapons

I have enough of these to make a full squad for Combat Patrol™ or GASLIGHT plus a heavy weapon team, and an overall leader.  I suspect that the overlords of whatever planet they came from feel that that is a large enough invasion force to take over Hoboken, Fitchburg, or Cucamonga.

from Buck’s Blog http://ift.tt/2oaolDg
via IFTTT
from Tumblr http://ift.tt/2pc3lOp
via IFTTT

HAWKs Hold Second “Armies for Kids” Painting Session

Chris Palmer   This past Saturday a group of the HAWKs got together to have a second painting bee for this year’s Franco-Prussian War themed “Armies for Kids” project.   The group met last February to begin the project, painting almost 500 15mm French figures; and this time the plan was to paint the Prussians.  Since many of the Prussians that had been donated were already painted, we only had 250 Prussians to complete.

     With all the infantry done, the plan now is to schedule a third session to work on the cavalry for both armies.  
    Once completed, the armies will be presented to six lucky kids who take part in a specially designated game at this year’s Historicon.  Each kid who participates in the game will get a set of opposing armies, terrain, rules, and game aids.

via One More Gaming Project http://ift.tt/2oyJ7QV
from Tumblr http://ift.tt/2p85E54
via IFTTT

Beastman Warrior 1 & 2: Bones 2 Figures

Chris Palmer

   I took a break from Gnolls this past week to paint the two Beastmen Warriors from the Bones 2 Beast Mode set.
    I prepped these figures in the usual way; soaking them in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving them a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying them.  I then glued the figures to black-primed 1" fender washers with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then glued the washer-mounted figures to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of the Elmer’s glue under each washer.
   I forgot to take a starting photo, so here are the photos from the Reaper Online Store.

     I began by giving the beastman on the left what I thought would be a wash with heavily thinned Reaper “Grey Liner” using a wet brush, but I picked up the bottle of “Blue Liner” by mistake!  The beastman on the right I gave a wash of heavily thinned Reaper “Brown Liner” using a wet brush. 
      When these washes were dry, I painted the skin of the left beastman a 50/50 mix of Americana “Neutral Grey” and Americana “Shading Flesh”; and the skin of the beastman on the right I painted a 50/50 mix of the “Shading Flesh” and Folk Art “Teddy Bear Brown”.  Next, I painted the fur of the left beastman with Americana “Dove Grey”, and the fur of the right beastman with Nicole’s “Brown”.   I then went back and painted the horns of the left beastman with Ceramcoat “Territorial Beige”, and the horns of the right beastman with Americana “Zinc”.  While I had the “Zinc” out, I also painted the horn points on both figures, as well as both the axe heads. 

     I then used Citadel “Snakebite Leather” to paint the loincloth on the left figure, as well as it’s wrist guards, and the medallion and face on it’s belt.  Likewise, I used the “Snakebite Leather” to also paint the wrist band, medallions and belt face on the right figure. Next, I painted the loincloth of the righthand figure with Americana “Bittersweet Chocolate”, and then painted the axe handles with Folk Art “Dark Brown”, and the belts with Crafter’s Acrylic Cinnamon Brown".  After that, I went back and painted the muzzle of the righthand one with the “Dove Grey”, and then painted the bases and hooves with Black.

    Next, I painted the axe heads, horn points, the chainmail on the left one’s loincloth, and the chain bracelet on the right one’s right arm, all with Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”.  I followed that with going back and painting the belt faces and medallions, as well as the wrist band on the right one’s left arm, all with Ceramcoat “Bronze”.   Then, after everything had a while to dry, I gave both figures a wash using Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash using a wet brush.

     When the wash was dry, I first did highlights on the left one’s skin using a mix of Americana “Mississippi Mud, and Folk Art "Milkshake”. I then highlighted the right one’s skin using Crafter’s Edition “Spice Brown”.  Next, I highlighted the left one’s fur with White, as well as the right one’s muzzle;  and highlighted the right one’s fur with Americana “Sable Brown”.   After that, I moved to the horns, highlighting the left one with Americana Khaki", and the right one with the “Neutral Grey”.  I then worked on the loin cloths, highlighting the left one’s, as well as his wrist guards, with Americana Terra Cotta", and the right one’s loin cloth with Americana “Mississippi Mud”.   I then turned to the metallics; highlighting the axe heads, horn tips, the chainmail on the left one, and the chain on the right one’s arm with Ceramcoat “Metallic Silver”. Next, I highlighted the parts I had painted with the “Bronze”, using Ceramcoat “14K Gold”.
       When I was done painting the figures, I used some white glue to glue a little sand to their bases.  When this was dry, I painted them all Black.  When the Black was dry, I drybrushed the bases with some Apple Barrel “Rock Grey”, and then some Americana “Grey Sky”.
    I let the figures dry overnight and the next day I gave them a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed them with Testor’s Dullcote".

   I’m happy with how these nice simple figures turned out.  I was surprised however, that like the gnolls I’ve been working on recently, these too had some serious mold line issues.   I wonder why this seems to be so prevalent in all these humanoid animal figures? 

via All Bones About It http://ift.tt/2ois3y4
from Tumblr http://ift.tt/2nxAJBW
via IFTTT

Star Wars Combat Patrol(TM) Play Test

Buck

The Rebels plot...

The Rebels plot…

This weekend I had a couple of the folks over who are working on supplements to Combat Patrol™ to help Greg play test aspects of his Star Wars supplement for Combat Patrol™.  All the combat stuff is working fine.  A focus of this play test was to look at the Jedi rules.  Greg has come up with rules to represent different Jedi powers from the movies, The Clone Wars, Rebels, and some of the “canon” comics.   We wanted to try to test as man of them as possible during this test.  Some powers got more testing than others, and we agreed that we need at least one more play test to work off a few more of the rough edges, but in general, it seemed to be working well.

Stormtroopers and a "chicken walker" advance

Stormtroopers and a “chicken walker” advance

In this scenario, the good guys (Stormtroopers — I was on that side), were attacking a Rebel scum base.  Our goal was to plant one or more thermal detonators on the ships and disable them, killing as many Rebels as possible in the process.  Their goal was to stop us from doing that.

The Rebels were supported by Luke Skywalker and Yoda.  On our side we had Darth Vader (pre “I am your father.”) and Darth Geoff, named after one of our club members.

A blast from the chicken walker goes long, inflicting no damage on the Rebels.

A blast from the chicken walker goes long, inflicting no damage on the Rebels.

Most of the Rebels began near the freighter and in the three quonset huts.  As the game began they took up defensive positions on top of the Phantom and in the woods surrounding the base.

Stormtroopers advance...

Stormtroopers advance…

Led by Darth Vader, three squads of Stormtroopers advance on our right toward the space ships while another squad and the chicken walker provide a screen on our left.

Luke vs. the chicken walker

Luke vs. the chicken walker

Luke Skywalker used his acrobatic Jedi leap power to jump onto the chicken walker with the intent of cutting open a hole and dropping in a thermal detonator.  The chicken walker was supported by a squad of Stormtroopers who blazed away at Luke to thwart his efforts.  Luke used his Jedi shield skill, batting away blaster bolts.  Eventually the sheer volume of fire took its toll.  After three turns of him batting away bolts, trying to un-stun himself, and cut a hole, he succumbed to several blaster hits and was incapacitated, falling to the ground, where the chicken walker did a celebratory chicken dance on his body.  Go Stormtroopers!

Rebels take up a defensive position along the wood line on the Rebel right.

Rebels take up a defensive position along the wood line on the Rebel right.

More Stormtroopers advancing

More Stormtroopers advancing

To get into good firing positions, our Stormtroopers had to advance across some open ground.  Greg lost half a squad, and one of my squads got badly mauled.  Eventually, however, I was able to get into a position in which my blaster rifles were in short range against the Rebels, but their blaster pistols were in long range.  Then my superior firepower began to tell, and I began cleaning the Rebels off the Phantom.

Vader and Yoda in an epic light saber battle

Vader and Yoda in an epic light saber battle

Darth Vader used his Jedi inspirational power to lead a sort of Banzai charge against a group of Chris’ Rebels.  As part of the action, Darth Vader force leapt into melee with Yoda, but Yoda got a groin hit on Vader (perhaps the only piece of his anatomy not burned off in the lava pit), forcing him back.  This melee went on for a couple of turns, with the Stormtroopers eventually getting the better of it.

Another view of the battle of Chris' woods on the Stormtrooper right

Another view of the battle of Chris’ woods on the Stormtrooper right

Darth Geoff attacks!

Darth Geoff attacks!

Darth Geoff finally got into the action by Force leaping right on top of the Phantom to engage in hand-to-hand with Dave’s Rebel scum.  Dave was able to slow down Darth Geoff with some well-placed blaster fire, and then Yoda Force leapt on the Phantom.  Yoda employed the Force push/pull skill on Darth Geoff, throwing him off the Phantom.  In the next turn, Yoda cut Darth Geoff in half.

The melee continues...

The melee continues…

While Yoda was cutting Darth Geoff down to Yoda’s size, Darth Vader leapt onto the freighter to cut a hole in which to drop a thermal detonator.  Despite several rounds of light saber combat with Yoda and some supporting fire from some of Dave’s Rebels, Vader eventually did cut a hole and drop in a detonator, which disabled the freighter.  Then Don’s chicken walker, no longer preoccupied by Luke Skywalker, moved to a position that was blocked from Dave’s shoulder-fired rocket launcher and begin shelling the Phantom.  After a couple of attempts he was able to penetrate the hull with a really good “die roll.”

Darth and Yoda battle atop the freighter

Darth and Yoda battle atop the freighter

At that point, with both of their ships in flames, the Rebel spirit broke and they fled the field.

About half of the Jedi skills were tested to an extent that we are comfortable with them.  We need at least one more play test before we’ll be comfortable.  Greg has completed his “historical research” on the orders of battle for droids, clones, rebels, and Stormtroopers.  He has also completed his “historical” research on the various weapons and equipment.  Once we clean up the Jedi rules, this free supplement will be ready to post to the Combat Patrol™ rules’ Web page for download.

I have enjoyed these Star Wars games as a way to use all those miniatures from ten or so years ago.  The games have been fun. It has also been enjoyable to use a few bits of science-fiction scenery to turn a “normal” table into a Star Wars table.    We don’t have the next play test scheduled, but I am hoping to complete this supplement before the end of July.

 

from Buck’s Blog http://ift.tt/2pl0Nwv
via IFTTT
from Tumblr http://ift.tt/2nTpJdw
via IFTTT

%d bloggers like this: