Mashaaf, Great Old One: Bones II Figure

Chris Palmer

  A few months ago I began working on the Mashaaf, Great Old One, add-on figure from Bones II, and had gotten as far as washing it, assembling it, and spraying it with a base coat.  It had then sat gathering dust, waiting for me to find inspiration to complete it.  Then, with the successful competition of my Kaladrax figure a couple weeks ago, I felt emboldened to bite the bullet and finish this figure up as well.
   When purchasing this figure I had some vague idea of using it for my Pulp mash-up Space1889/John Carter of Mars games, so I pictured in some sort of tan,bron,reddish type of color scheme.  However, i didn’t want to limit it to just Mars, so I wanted to tone the base colors down so they might just as well blend in with any desert setting.
    I prepped the figure in the usual way; soaking all the pieces it in a bowl of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then I gave them all a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsed and dried them.  I then assembled the figure using Gorilla superglue.   Next, I  used Aleene’s Tacky glue to glue the base to a n old CD.
    When everything was dry, I used masking tape to taped off the area of the base where the figure was going to be glued, and taped the underside of the figure where it sat on the base as well.

     I then sprayed both the base and the figure itself with Krylon Camouflage with Fusion “Khaki”.  This left the model a little tacky, but I knew from having  used this to paint some of my CAV that once I painted over the tacky basecoat, it would be fine.

   I then began easing into the project by painting the base.  I felt if I could establish a color palette I liked on the base, it would help me decide which direction to take the figure.  I painted various mottled areas using Folk Art “Baryard Red”, Americana Terra Cotta, and Ceramcoat “Territorial Beige”; applying one color right after the other while they were still wet so they would lend together a bit.

When these colors were dry, I applied some white glue to the areas that were the plain surface of the CD, and then sprinkled the glue with a mix of regular course sand, and a reddish-orange decorative sand.   When that was dry, I gave the entire base a wash with Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash using a wet brush.

   When the wash was dry, I drybrushed the base with Americana Shading FLesh", Folk Art “Butter Pecan”, Folk Art “Almond Parfait”, and lastly, Americana “Bleached Sand”.
    I then started work on the big worm itself.  First, I painted the underbelly with the “Bleached Sand”.  I then painted the crusty rock-like bumps on its back with the “Terra Cotta”, and the pustule like citcles running alng the sides with the “Barnyard Red”.

     Next, I painted the two large scythe-like talons, as well as the little ones running down the side with Folk Art “Gray Green” .  I also used this color to pint the two blade-like protrusions on each side of the mouth, and the four covering its little anus.   I then painted the tentacles and mouth with Apple Barrel “Apple Light Pink”, and his eyes with Black.  I also used the Black to paint the very back of his mouth, blending it with a little of the “Apple Light Pink” to try and create the illusion of a receding hole down his gullet. I folllowed this with painting the teeth with Americana “Buttermilk”

    At this point I deiced to go ahead and glue it to the base, as I was having trouble holding it and either wearing off the dry paint, or putting my fingers in areas where it was still wet.   Once the glue had a while to dry, I gave the entire figure a wash with the “Agrax Earthshade” using a wet brush.

     When the wash was dry, I began the final drybrushing of the highlights.  I drybrushed his back with a mix of Accent “Golden Oxide” and the “Buttermilk”, and then drybrushed the bulk of the body with a mix of Americana “Khaki Tan” and Crafter’s Acrylic “Light Antique White”.   I then mixed a bit of the “Barnyard Red”, and the “Apple Light Pink”, and used that to paint highlights on the pustules. I highlighted the mouth and tentacles with a mix of the “Apple Light Pink” and the “Light Antique White”; and the highlighted the talons, and the mouth and anus blades,  with a mix of the original “Gray Green”, and the “Light Antique White”.  I also highlighted the teeth with the “Light Antique White”.  Lastly, I used White to add tiny reflective dots to the eyes.
     After the figure had overnight to dry, I gave it a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”.   The next morning I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote.  

John Carter and Dejah Thoris battle a strange creature from the Barsoomian wastes.

     Note: the colors appear a little washed out in these photos.  I think it may have been the lighting I used, or the fact that the background cloth was relatively dark.

     I’m really happy with how this big fella came out; and have an increased confidence in tackling these big miniatures.  Which is good considering I have a number of them coming up in the not-too-distant future in the Bones I painting queue.

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Gen Con 2016 AAR

Rob Dean

After Action Report

This year was the third year that the Dean family team attended Gen Con, and we are beginning to feel like we have a handle on the planning.  We were ready for the opening of the hotel room registration back in January, and, with four of us in the room lottery we drew a good position and were able to secure a room in the J.W. Mariott, at the northwest corner of the convention center complex.

With the room in hand, my brother was confirmed in his decision to try his hand at gamemastering this year, and, accordingly, he signed us up for four miniatures games (three Chaos Wars demos and a session of the 1975 Lord of the Rings game Ringbearer), as well as a classic board game night (Cosmic Encounter) that he did solo.

As the travel plans were finalized, I decided to arrive in Indiana on Tuesday, so that my brother and I could be there for the semi-official pre-convention events on Wednesday.  I was tasked with bringing some of the miniatures for Ringbearer, but Norman had the majority of the prep work in hand.  The kids would arrive on Wednesday night, and they also booked a somewhat early departure, around 2:00 on Sunday.

Arriving on Tuesday, I found that the literal welcome mat from previous years had not been rolled out at the airport, but the street signs were all up.

My brother and I arrived in good time on Wednesday morning after spending the night at his place in Bloomington, and we started right off with a board game demo, of a space-themed game called Destination Neptune.  It was a bit of a time-management game, reminding me of Puerto Rico, and I am still considering picking up a copy eventually.  I was also signed up for a (Classic) Traveller game in the evening, which was a bit of a bust.  The GM thought that it would be fun to try a combat scenario, which ultimately reminded me of why I try to avoid combat in Traveller.  Most of our party was wiped out in short order.  (My son was in one of the GM’s other Traveller games the next day, and came away speaking highly of the experience, so I’ll write this one off as a good idea that didn’t quite pan out.)

The convention proper started on Thursday.  We were signed up to run one of our Chaos Wars games first thing, with the idea that we didn’t want to be part of the crush in the exhibit hall opening.  Gen Con is an interesting environment for miniatures games.

  As can be seen from the pictures, there are seemingly endless rows of 5 x 16 foot table set ups, each representing two 5×8 games, so it would be helpful for planning purposes to consider that you only have access to three sides of the table.

The background noise could be described as “thunderous”, so it’s a little hard on the voice.  On the other hand, despite the limitations, we noted that there were over 950 miniatures games in the program, so splitting the miniatures off would make a respectable miniatures convention.  They just feel a little lost in the 17,000 other events.  We had six players for the first game, a battle to evict a trio of wizards from a stronghold under construction.  The players were three younger and three older, and that demographic distribution was the pattern for the rest of our minis games.  I’m not really concerned about the graying of the hobby overall; miniatures has always skewed a little more toward the older and more established players.

I scurried off to an art workshop (on using Copic markers for mapping) after our game, which was in one of the distant outlying hotels.  Upping my game on map making remains on my to-do list…

After that it was time to set up Ringbearer.  This game was printed in 1975, and involves a compressed War of the Ring on a single wargames table.  We ended up with four players (of a possible five), so that worked out pretty well, with players for Mordor, Isengard, Gondor and Rohan, and with the Fellowship split between the “good” players.

  We thought this went pretty well, with the Fellowship taking a long detour through Rohan on their way to the Cracks of Doom.

We didn’t quite finish, though, so that part still needs some work.  The Ringbearer game was the tough one to transport and set up, so we were glad that the kids arrived in time to give us a hand in the tear down.  I’ve been using my sons as a support crew for years at the historical miniatures conventions, but that’s going to be more difficult going forward, so I’m going to need to think about my gamemastering strategy with respecting transporting stuff.

I set Friday up to be my play day in the schedule.  I was in a Fate Accelerated role-playing game in the morning, involving unicorns mediating between humans and spirits in a magical forest,  then did the majority of my Gen Con shopping.  I signed up for two speed painting sessions, back to back, in the afternoon, and was pleased to find that one of them, for painting Reaper figures,  qualified me for a final round on Sunday afternoon.

 I was fairly happy with how the other figure, an Iron Wind Metals (aka Ral Partha) elf warlord, turned out, but it didn’t get a prize.

Everybody had a schedule gap on Friday, so we set that up as our team dinner, after which I headed over to Games on Demand to see what was on offer.  I ended up in a session of The Fall of Magic, a GM-less storytelling improvisational game with some interesting potential.  Two hours was just scratching the surface, though, so I put a copy on my wish list for later.

Saturday was booked solid.  I started off in the morning in a game with my older son, a scenario using the original 1823 Prussian Kriegsspiel rules, played on a topographical map with scaled counters.

There were a few issues with the scenario design on this one, but it was as interesting experiment in hobby history.  My brother and I then ran two more Chaos Wars games (with the same scenario) back to back, with five and four players respectively.

My throat was about shot by the time that I was done, and we were again glad to accept some help from the kids on the clean up.

I hadn’t started the convention with anything scheduled for Sunday, but ended up with the final round of speed painting at 2:00.  We looks at the kids’ departure time and concluded that we could probably manage a two session at Games on Demand at 10:00.  My older son and I ended up in a session of The Quiet Year, a game of post-apocalyptic community building, which we had tried and liked last year.

After that, the kids scurried off to the airport and I did a little final shopping prior to my Reaper speed painting final.

I didn’t place in the final either, but I did end up with two brushes, three miniatures, and a fourth miniature as a prize for my combined entry fee of $4, so I had a great time with it overall.

I got to ease out of the convention slowly; the majority of the plane was filled with other Gen Con attendees headed home, so we got to talk about games all the way back to Baltimore, and I prudently took Monday off to recover.

Now that we have tried GMing, we are already discussing plans for next year’s games…

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Undertaker and Oswald the Overladen: Figures 238 & 239

Chris Palmer

This past weekend I finished up the Townsfolk set by painting both the Undertaker, and Oswald the Overladen, figures.  This set now joins the list of Completed Sets over on the right.
     I prepped the figures in the usual way; soaking them in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish- soap added, then giving them a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying them.  I then glued Oswald to a white-primed 1" fender washers with Aleene’s Tacky glue (as I planned to use him for Frostgrave as a “Pack Mule” type soldier as introduced in The Thaw of the Lich Lord supplement), and the Undertaker to a black primed 1" fender washer.  I then glued the washers to a pair of tongue depressors with a couple drops of the Elmer’s glue each.
     I started with the Undertaker.

     I began by painting the figure entirely with Black.  I then drybrushed it with Citadel “The Fang”, and then did lighter drybrushed highlights with Folk Art “Cloudy Day”. I then painted his face with Folk Art “Milkshake”.

     Next, I painted his gloves with Nicole’s “Brown”, his socks with Americana “Neutral Grey”, and the shovel handle with Folk Art “Barnwood”.   I then applied some Iron Wind Metals “Yellow” ink to the panes of his lantern.  When that was dry, I added a little Iron Wind Metals “Orange” ink around the edges of the panes.

    I then painted some Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash on his face, gloves, and shovel handle using a wet brush.   When the wash was dry, I painted his eyes.  I also painted some rust on his shovel handle and head using  first Americana “Raw Umber”, and then some thinned Crafter’s Edition “Spice Brown”.  While I had the “Spice Brown” out, I used it to highlight his gloves.

     Next, I did highlights on his face with the “Milkshake”, and then finished off the rust effects by adding some thinned Ceramcoat “Raw Sienna”. AFter that, I lightly drybrushed the head of the shovel with Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”.  I then used Crafter’s Acrylic “Daffodil Yellow” to highlight the eyes in the lantern’s skulls, and then I used it to do a light drybrushing down the figure’s front to create a simple Object Source Lighting (OSL) effect.
          I let the figure sit all day, and that evening I gave it a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”.  The next morning I flocked his base with a mix of sand and dried coffee grounds; and when the Oswald figure was finished, I sprayed them both with Testor’s Dullcote.

     Next, I painted Oswald the Overburden.
    I began by giving the figure a wash with thinned Reaper “Grey Liner” to help delineate all the things he had packed on him.

     I then used the “Milkshake to paint his face, Folk Art "Grey Green” to paint his shirt, and the “Brown to paint his jacket.  I then painted the collar with Americana "Terra Cotta”, and his pants with the “Neutral Grey”.

     Next, I painted his hat with Reaper MSP Bones “Cinnamon Red”, and then painted his boot with Crafter’s Acrylic “Cinnamon Brown”.  I painted his gloves with Americana “Zinc”, and then painted the large pouch hanging at his waist in the front with Ceramcoat “Territorial Beige”.

     I then began to paint all the various objects hanging from poor Oswald.  I didn’t keep track of what colors, as I was grabbing them here and there from my painting table.

     After I was done, I gave the entire figure a wash with Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash using a wet brush.  When the wash was dry, I painted in his eyes and then highlighted his face with the “Milkshake”.

     I highlighted his hat with Americana “Cadmium Red”, and his shirt with the original Grey “Green”.  Next, I highlighted his collar with Accent “Golden Oxide”, his jacket and boots with Americana “Sable Brown”.  I then highlighted his gloves and his pants with Folk Art “Rock Grey”.  I did a little highlighting on the various objects he’s carrying, but mostly  I let the wash suffice to add contrast.   Lastly, I painted his base White.
     When everything had overnight to dry, I gave the figure a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish” early the next morning.  Midday, I flocked the white areas with Woodland Scenics “Snow” flock and the next morning I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote.

     I’m happy how these two figures turned out, and am happy to have another set under my belt.  Next up is the Dark Heroes set.  I’m going to try and start posting Bones 1 figures on both Monday and Thursday in effort to really push through these last remaining few sets before the year ends.

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A Platoon of Poles

Buck

A squad of Polish soldiers, 1939

The theme for Fall In 2016 in November is Poland.  I have always enjoyed the early WWII campaigns, including Poland.  I have quite a few 20mm / 1:72 scale figures, but I have been slowly duplicating my 20mm WWII collection with 28mm figures, which I like better.  I signed up to run a very large 10mm Look, Sarge, No Charts: World War II game, the battle of Lvov in Poland in 1939, and two 28mm skirmish games with Combat Patrol ™.  Since I didn’t have 28mm Polish, I needed to get a platoon painted up quickly.

A closer view of the Polish squad

To assemble a platoon of Poles to run my Combat Patrol ™ games at Fall In, immediately upon returning from Historicon in July, I ordered a platoon of Poles in 28mm from Warlord.  It took several weeks to file, prime, base, and paint these 60 figures, but I finished them this weekend.

Polish Anti-Tank Rifle Team in the Platoon HQ

I block painted the figures and then dipped them in the lighter brown shade from Army Painter.  This is the first time I tried to completely dip figures with Army Painter rather than brushing it on the figures.  I am pleased with the effect.  I don’t see myself using this technique on 18th century figures, where I will want the brighter colors, but I am pleased with the speed and effect on WWII figures.

Company Mortar that I may attach to my Polish platoon for special missions

Polish squads could be quite large, as large as 18 men, including two leaders and a  version of the Browning Automatic Rifle (BAR) produced under license in Poland.  My squads are a little smaller than that, at 16 figures.

Polish 75mm field gun

Warlord, one of the few — perhaps the only — manufacturers of 28mm Polish infantry, also makes a 75mm gun and a 37mm gun.  I didn’t quite get the color right on the guns, but they are passable.  Neither gun would be organic to a platoon, or even a company, but again, they will mike nice attached support weapons for specific scenarios.

Polish 37mm anti-tank gun

The platoon HQ

The platoon HQ should be five men, including the two-man anti-tank rifle team.  The machine-gun would not be organic to the platoon, but might be assigned by from battalion or company for specific missions.

There is nothing like committing to run games at a convention, when you don’t have all the figures to run the games, to provide the necessary impetus to get painting done.  I am very satisfied with the platoon and will be quite happy to field them on a gaming table soon.

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Roomans

Buck

Or is that Roo-men?  Sometime in ancient history, Ral Partha made a single pack of figures, called Rooman War Party, which had Roomans in two poses, but all armed with pikes or spears.  They are no longer available.  Over the years, I collected dozens of the originals, but they have become quite rare, even on Ebay.  Recently, my buddy Ma’k contacted Iron Wind Metals about these figures, but the molds are lost to time.  So, Ma’k made a mold of the Roomans, and I added crossbows and swords.

I had a little time this weekend to paint up these figures.  These re-casts have slightly less relief than the originals, so my dry brushing didn’t turn out all that well, but I am happy with the results.  No my phalanx of Rooman pikemen will have support from some crossbows.

I also had a chance to add some science fiction weapons to a few of them.  The weapons are from War-games Supply Dump in their Dirk Garrison range.  These were not the kinds of conversions that win figure contests, but they will work well in my science fiction games.

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Michelle, Female Human Ranger

Chris Palmer

   I ordered this figure a while back to round out an order from Reaper to qualify for the free shipping.  With the death of my Treasure Hunter Jack2 in last months Frostgrave game, it was time to paint up a new one; so I grabbed this one to use.
  The first thing I did was trim down the sword in her left hand, so it resembled a dagger a little bit more; thus better fitting the official Treasure Hunter description.  I then prepped the figure in the usual way; soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish- soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  I then glued the figure to a white-primed 1" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then glued the washer-mounted figure to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of the Elmer’s glue.
     I then gave her a wash with Reaper “Grey Liner” using a wet brush to help me see all the pieces of her outfit better.

   I began painting by doing her face with GW “Bronze Flesh”.  I then painted her tunic with Ceramcoat “Black Cherry”, and her under-shirt with Crafter’s Acrylic “Bright Blue”.

     Next, I painted her leather armor with Citadel “Snakebite Leather”, and painted on gloves using Folk Art “Dapple Gray”.

   At this point I started to feel that she might need a little something extra to sell the idea of being a treasure hunter, so I took one of the rope coils from the Frostgrave Soldiers boxed set from North Star, and sprayed it with flat white spray paint.   I then filed away an area of paint on her left hip, and used super glue to glue the rope coil in place.

    I painted the rope coil with Folk Art “Butter Pecan”, and after it had a while to dry, I gave the whole figure a wash with Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash using a wet brush.  When the wash was dry, I painted her cape with Crafter’s Acrylic “Navy Blue” and her hair with Black.  I let the cape dry a bit, and then I gave it a wash with Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash using a wet brush.  I then painted her eyes.

After her eyes, I painted her lips with a mix of GW Vermin Brown, Americana “Shading Flesh”, the “Bronze Flesh”, and Crafter’s Acrylic “Flesh”.  I  then highlighted her skin with a mix of the “Bronze Flesh” and “Flesh”.  Next, I highlighted her hair with Citadel “The Fang”, and then did lighter highlights with FolkArt “Cloudy Day”.   I highlighted her cape with Americana “True Blue”, and then highlighted her under-shirt with a mix of the “Bright Blue” and “White”.  After that I highlighted her tunic with Americana Cranberry Wine", and then added a little Crafter’s Acrylic “Tutti Frutti” to the “Cranberry Wine” to do lighter highlights.  Next, I highlighted the rope coil using a mix of Americana “Khaki Tan”, and Americana “Bleached Sand”.  Then I highlighted her leather armor using a mix of the base “Snakebite Leather”, and Ceramcoat “Maple Sugar Tan”, and did her gloves using a mix of the “Dapple Gray” and Folk Art “Gray Green”.  Then I painted both her sword and dagger with Americana “Zinc”.  When dry, I painted them again with Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”, and also used this color to paint all the buttons on her cape.  I then highlighted the sword, dagger, and buttons with Folk Art “Silver Sterling”.
     Lastly, I painted the figures base with White.  When everything had overnight to dry, I gave the figure a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish” early the next morning.  Midday, I flocked the white areas with Woodland Scenics “Snow” flock and the next day I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote.

   

     I’m happy with how my new warband member came out, but a bit surprised at how similar her skin tone ended up looking to her leather armor.  Considering I used totally different paints, both base coat and highlights, it is an unexpected, and unfortunate, close match.

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Barrage Event List Filling Up

Buck

The event list for Barrage is beginning to fill up.  This is our first time running Barrage as a two-day event.  At this point, we have nearly as many events as last year, with a heavy schedule for Friday.  And we are still several weeks away, so I anticipate a very full schedule.

Here is the Friday schedule as it stands today:

Here is the Saturday schedule as it stands today.

Note the games designated as “kid friendly” in purple.  I know of at least two more that will be added soon.  Bring your young gamers to Barrage 2016!

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Relief of Fort William

Rob Dean

My younger son is headed away to grad school shortly, but he and his brother were both at home for a game this weekend. Ross Macfarlane and I are expecting to sign up a couple of 40mm French and Indian War games for Fall In, so it seemed like a good time to break those figures out (for the first time in about two years) and remind ourselves of the rules.

We played that old stand-by, The Wagon Train from C.S. Grant’s Scenarios for Wargames (aka The Green Book). In this action, the French raiders were successful in their attempt to destroy the convoy, though it was tense.

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Orc Hunters: Figures 234-237

Chris Palmer

   This past week I finished up the last four figures from the Orcpocalypse Add-On set; the Orc Hunter figures.  This set now joins the list of completed sets over on the right.
      I prepped these figures in the usual way,  washing them in some dish soap, lightly scrubbing them with a soft toothbrush,  and then letting them dry.  Then, like with the other figures from this set, I did  conversions to some of them.  Looking at the row below: The first orc had the right forearm from one of the Bones Gnolls added, and the left forearm from a GW Ogre. The second has had his hands drilled out and a cut-down GW lance added.  The third orc has had the sword blade from one of the previous Bones Orc conversions added in place of the original spear head.   The fourth orc is an untouched original, droopy spear and all.  Note that any hard plastic part I was using, I pre-primed with flat black spray paint before gluing it on.  Also, I used Gorilla Super Glue to affix all conversions.
       After the conversions were done, I glued the four onto black primed 1.25 inch fender washers using Aleene’s Tacky glue.  I then glued them onto a tongue depressor, for ease of painting, using a couple drops of Elmer’s white glue each.

   I began by painting them entirely Black; and then when the Black was dry, I drybrushed them entirely with Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”.

 I then painted their skin with with Aleene’s “Deep Khaki”.  Next, I painted their cloth “skirts” hanging under the chainmail: Orc one with Crafter’s Acrylic “Orange Spice”, Orc two with Americana “Neutral Grey”, Orc three with Black, and Orc four with Folk Art  "Dapple Grey".

    Next, I painted the boots of the first two, and then belt and neck straps of the second two, with Americana “Raw Umber”.   I then painted the belts and neck straps of the first two, and the boots of the second two, with Black.  After that, I painted all the forearms wraps and straps with Anita’s “Burnt Sienna”, and on the first Orc I painted the bones on his right forearm as well as his morning star’s handle with FolkArt “Barn Wood”. I then painted the cord holding the bones to his wrist guard using Ceramcoat “Territorial Beige”.  I painted all the spear shafts with Crafter’s Acrylic “Cinnamon Brown”, and the streamer coming off the third Orc’s spear with Reaper MSP Bones “Cinnamon Red”. I painted all their teeth with Americana “Buttermilk”.

     I let everything dry for a while, then I gave them all a complete wash with Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash using a wet brush.  When the wash was dry, I painted their eyes, using the “Buttermilk” for their “whites”, and then I highlighted their teeth with Crafter’s Acrylic “Light Antique White”.

    Next, I highlighted their skin with some of the “Deep Khaki” mixed with a little Aleene’s “Dusty Khaki”.  I highlighted the tops of the spear shafts with Folk Art “Dark Brown”.  I then worked on highlighting their “skirts”: for Orc one I used the “Orange Spice” mixed with a little Americana “Tangerine”, for Orc two I used Folk Art “Rock Gray”, for Orc three I used Citadel “The Fang”, and for Orc four I used some of the “Dapple Grey” mixed with a little Folk Art “Gray Green”.  I highlighted the streamer hanging from the third Orc’s spear using Folk Art “Deep Tomato Red”.  On the first orc, I highlighted the bones on his wrist guard and morning star handle with Americana “Bleached Sand”.  Finally, I went back and did highlights on all the metal using Folk Art “Silver Sterling”.
     After everything had dried overnight, I gave the figures a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish” and, when dry, flocked their bases.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed them with Testor’s Dullcote".

      I’m happy how they turned out, and happy to have completed this big set.  Below is a picture of all the Orcs from the Bones I Core Set and the Orcpocalypse Set.

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Giant Skeletal Animals at Giant Supermarkets

Chris Palmer I was at my local Giant supermarket this past week and saw that they had already started putting  out their Halloween merchandise.  One of the things that caught my eye was a box containing a variety of large skeletal animals; specifically, a spider, rat, and bat. They were priced at $3.99 each.

    While quite large, I think they still have gaming potential as giant creatures, or as fodder for making bone-based terrain.  And they are surprisingly detailed for “toys”.  I picked up one of the spiders, shown below with a Reaper 28mm figure.   I know spiders don’t really have skeletons, but I thought this might make the basis for a cool piece of fantasy terrain, specifically for Frostgrave.    I’m not sure how I’m going to use it exactly but I have a few ideas in mind.
   And, as I look at the photo above, I’m thinking you could cobble together the bat and rat figures to make a really cool dragon skeleton!

Here is the Spider Skeleton shown with  a 28mm Reaper figure.

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