Serena, Dreadmere Rogue: Bones 4 Dreadmere Figure

Chris Palmer

   This past week I painted Serena, Dreadmere Rogue, from the Bones 4 Dreadmere Expansion.   I prepped the figure in the usual way, soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  I then glued the figure to a black-primed 1" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then placed the figure in my painting grip.

     I began by painting her face with Reaper MSP “Olive Skin”, and then painted her arms and legs with Reaper MSP “Coal Black”.  After that I painted her cape and hood with Accent “Midnight Blue”.

     Next, I painted her tabard, gloves, and the blades of her weapons with Americana “Zinc”.  I then painted her boots, belt, pouch, and the grips of her weapons with Ceramcoat “Black”.  After that, I painted the little bags on her belt with Americana “Charcoal Grey”, and then did some borders on her tabard with Reaper MSP “Fresh Blood”.   I then did the rock she has her left foot on with Americana “Neutral Grey”, and splotched it with a little Folk Art “Dapple Gray”.

      I finished the base coating by painting the weapon blades with Folk Art  Metallics “Gunmetal Grey.  Then, after everything had a while to dry, I gave her face a coat of Citadel "Reikland Fleshshade” wash.  When that was dry, I gave the rest of the figure a coat of Citadel “Nuln Oil” Wash".  When the washes were dry, I painted her eyes, and then highlighted her face with Reaper MSP “Olive Highlight”.

     Next, I highlighted her sleeves and legs with Citadel “The Fang”, and highlighted her tabard and gloves with a mix of the base “Zinc” and some Americana “Grey Sky”.  I then highlighted her cape with Americana “Wedgewood Blue”, and highlighted the borders on her tabard with Reaper MSP “Holly Berry”.

I finished up the highlights by doing her boots, belt, pouch, and grips with Folk Art “Medium Grey”, and then the little bags on her belt with Americana “Mississippi Mud”. I then highlighted her blades with Citadel “Mithril Silver”.  Lastly, I painted the entire base with the “Mississippi Mud”.
         I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.    Then, when  the varnish was dry, I used some white glue to flock the base.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed it with Testor’s “Dullcote”.

     I’m really happy with this one.  The face and eyes, being mostly covered, were a challenge; but in the end I think they turned out ok.

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2020/01/serena-dreadmere-rogue-bones-4.html
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Early War Americans

Buck

Some months ago, I posted that I was having trouble finding early WWII Americans for Wake Island and the Philippines. Several of us then commissioned Steve Barber to sculpt some. You can see some of the results here: https://www.stevebarbermodels.com/store/-c38002555

I ordered several squads of these figures, but due to a movement of my household from Maryland to Florida, I haven’t had a chance to paint them yet. Steve sent me an Email yesterday with the latest release in this line: the BAR gunner.

I really like the look of these figures. They match closely with the Pulp Figures I have and will allow much more variety. Well done, Steve!

I will post pictures of the painted figures when I have a chance to pull them from the to-be-painted box to the work table. Then you will see pictures of these in some early war Philippine scenarios using Combat Patrol™: WWII.

from Buck’s Blog http://bucksurdu.com/blog/?p=9479
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Sophie the Sage Christmas Ornament Project: Bones 3 Figure

Chris Palmer

     Happy New Year everyone!  Sorry for the brief hiatus, but the holidays turned out to be crazy busy.  Anyway, I’m back at it now, and wanted to show off a project I did over the month of December: a Christmas ornament based on the Sophie the Sage figure from the Bones 3 Core Set.
     I had actually started planning this project in the Fall of 2018, but events overtook my time, and it never moved past the planning and thinking stage, as well as purchasing the ornament I wanted to use.  This year however I was determined to get it done in time for Christmas to give as a gift to my wife, who is an avid reader and book enthusiast.
      My plan was to make a scene of a wizard reading in her chamber, with books, etc. piled around the place.  I started with the Sophie figure and a circular plaster dungeon terrain piece I had.  I had assembled the figure without the wings, as I wanted the figure to just be a human, and not a succubus.

      I quickly realized I’d need some walls for a backdrop; which I constructed out of cork scraps, and added some window frames made from coffee stirrers.  I then cut the figure off her base, and drilled a hole in the bottom of her gown, and a corresponding hole into the plaster disc.  Next, I superglued a length of paperclip wire into the figure.  After that, I used some greenstuff to fill the slot in her back where the wings were supposed to go.

I framed up the walls using more bits of coffee stirrers and some balsa wood.   When I was satisfied, I glued it to the plaster base with Aleene’s Tacky glue.

      I had of course washed the figure  before I had started assembly; soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  And I had used Gorilla Superglue Gel to assemble the two parts.   It was now time to begin the painting.

      I began by painting her skin with Reaper MSP “Tanned Skin”, and her dress with Reaper MSP “Christmas Wreath”.  I then painted her staff with Americana “Light Cinnamon”, and the book cover with Pathfinder MSP “Urgathoa Red”

      Next, I painted her hair with Americana “Asphaltum, and her belt and pouches with Accent "Real Umber”.  After that, I painted the book pages with Americana “Bleached Sand”, and the top of her staff with Crafter’s Acrylic “Wild Green”.

     I then painted the wands in her wand case an assortment of browns, and the book mark with some Crafter’s Acrylic “Daffodil Yellow”.  After that, I painted her jewelry and the corners of the book with Folk Art “Brushed Metal "Brushed Bronze”, and then let the figure dry for a while.  When I resumed working on the figure, I gave her skin a coat of Citadel “Reikland Fleshshade” wash; and when that was dry, I gave her book, pouches and staff a coat of “Citadel Agrax Earthsahde” wash.

  

     When the washes were dry, I painted her eyes and mouth, and then highlighted her skin with Reaper MSP “Tanned Highlight”.  I then highlighted her hair with Americana “Sable Brown”, and Americana “Fawn”. After that, I highlighted her dress using first Apple Barrel “Apple Christmas Green”, and then Americana “Festive Green”.

     Interspersed with working on the figure, I had primed the walls and base with Krylon Grey Primer, and when dry, I drybrushed the stones with Americana “Neutral Grey”, and then painted the walls with Crafter’s Acrylic “Light Antique White”.

     I finished painting the figure, highlighting the pouches with Nicole’s “Brown”, and the staff with Americana “Khaki Tan”.  I also highlighted the book cover with Americana “Burgundy Wine”, and the bookmark with the base “Daffodil Yellow”.  After that, I highlighted the book pages with Americana “Snow White’, and then painted text on them with Reaper MSP "Holly Berry”, and Ceramcoat “Black”.    I highlighted her jewelry and the corners of the book with Ceramcoat “Wedding Gold”, and then painted the top of her staff with a mix of Folk Art Color Shift “Green Flash”, and Folk Art Color Shift “Emerald Flash”.    I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish. 
    I then quickly painted up the pile of books, bottle, and goblet that came with the model, as well as a small stack of books from the Wizkids Wizards Room set.  In addition, I painted up a pair of cats that came with a Dark Sword figure (I forget the name), to look like our two cats.   After drying overnight, these all got their coat of the “DuraClear Matte” varnish as well. 
    I completed the base by painting the wood work on the walls with Americana “Charcoal Grey”, and adding a small rug cut from an old tobacco flannel.   The final step was to plot out an arrangement I liked, and then glue it all down.

    Once everything was glued into place, I glued the base into the ornament bottom cap using E6000 glue, and when dry, screwed on the ornament dome.

     I’m really happy with how it all turned out, and my wife loved her unique gift.

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2020/01/sophie-sage-christmas-ornament-project.html
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2019 Hobby, Gaming, and Blogging Roundup

Mark A. Morin

2019 was a bigger year for this blog and my gaming and hobby activities.  I was able to run several games of Combat Patrol

™

  and What a Tanker© at HAVOC, BARRAGE, the Fort Devens Games Day, The Historical Gaming Club of Uxbridge, and monthly sessions of the Mass Pikemen Gaming Club.  I managed to get an award at HAVOC – and attend HUZZAH for the first time in Maine.  It was a busy gaming year.  

Always happy to get this type of recognition!

In support of all these activities, of course I had a number of projects in terms of assembling, painting, and creating. I documented these here. Being an analytical type of guy I kept a spreadsheet of my hobby activities (below) and listed them on a page of this blog with links (also below).

My hobby activities tracker

The entire list and links are at the end of this blog which will refer to each project. These links are very useful to me in reviewing previous projects as to what paints I used, what techniques, etc.

The building and painting of tanks and support materials made up the largest part of my 775 project activities in 2019 (106 tanks I believe – 43 German, 23 UK, 18 US, 15 Italian, and 7 French), and the remainder were models for retro sci-fi games (around 50 or so).

The blog itself grew by a lot, and I was very pleased about that. In 2019, there were 20,965 views (versus 13,743 in 2018) by 13,819 visitors (versus 8,295 in 2018). I managed to get in 36 posts, 3 more than in 2018. I must say a huge thanks to all of my readers and followers of my blog!  I especially appreciate all of you (and you know who you are) – who took the time to give me feedback – it was great to hear all of your perspectives. THANK YOU!

So what’s next for 2020? My goals are always changeable (hell, its a hobby right), but here is my current list:

  • Games:
    • Run convention games at TotalCon, HAVOC, HUZZAH, BARRAGE, and the Fort Devens Game Day (and a few more maybe)
    • Grow the Mass Pikemen Gaming Club with new members and new GM’s
    • Support the Historical Gaming Club of Uxbridge 
  • Models:
    • Build a suitable force of French and German tanks for the Battle of France scenario for 80th anniversary of this event
    • Build 2 or more new platoons for retro sci-fi games of Combat Patrol
    • Start the Nomonhan project
  • Other:
    • Complete a supplement for Feudal Patrol for Mesoamerican warfare (Aztecs, etc)
    • Be productive, but never sacrifice quality
    • Grow the blog and find new ones to follow!
    • Entertain my audience!
  • Golf:
    • Get my handicap below 14 (if I have enough non-gaming time!)

Thanks again for reading this and making my little hobby blog a part of your day!  Here are the massive details of 2019 below:

2019 Total Miniatures & Projects to Date: 775

  • 153 figures painted
  • 57 figures cast
  • 86 figures assembled
  • 28 terrain pieces made or assembled
  • 36 terrain pieces painted
  • 1 figure conversion
  • 2 creation or component sculpted or scratch-built
  • 2 molds made
  • 410 game pieces/game aids made and/or painted

January: 52 projects

  • Figures painted (26):
    • 9 British tanks painted for What a Tanker© in North Africa:
      • 2 A10 Cruiser Mark IIA (Desert) tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BR023)
      • 1 A13 Cruiser Mark IVA (Desert) tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BR026)
      • 1 Valentine II tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BR060)
      • 1 Valentine III tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BR061)
      • 1 Crusader II tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BR032)
      • 1 Crusader III tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BR034)
      • 1 M3 Grant tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BR100)
      • 1 Churchill II tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BR070)
    • 17 German tanks/tank destroyers painted for What a Tanker© in North Africa and France 1940:
      • 2 Panzerjager I’s (one for France 1940 and one for North Africa)(15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE100)
      • 3 Panzer IIC’s (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GBX108) for France 1940
      • 6 Panzer IIF’s (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GBX108) for North Africa
      • 2 Panzer IIIE’s (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE030) for North Africa
      • 1 Panzer IIIH (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE031) for North Africa
      • 1 Panzer IVF2 (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE042) for North Africa
      • 1 M3 Stuart “Honey” tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BR006) –  one captured by the Germans for use in North Africa 
      • 1 Tiger I (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE070) for North Africa
  • Figures assembled (10):
    • 10 German tanks/tank destroyers assembled:
      • 2 Panzerjager I’s (one for France 1940 and one for North Africa)(15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE100)
      • 5 Panzer IIC’s and F’s (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GBX108) for North Africa
      • 1 Panzer IIIH (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE031) for North Africa
      • 1 Panzer IVF2 (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE042) for North Africa
      • 1 Tiger I (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE070) for North Africa
  • Game pieces/game aids made or painted (16):
    • 16 dashboards built for What a Tanker© games

February: 71 projects

  • Figures painted (13):
    • 12 Italian tanks/tank destroyers painted for What a Tanker© in North Africa
      • 1 M14/41 tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#IT040) for North Africa
      • 4 Semovente 47/32 tank destroyers (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#IT101) for North Africa
      • 1 Semovente Carro Comando M41 75/18 tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#IT110) for North Africa
      • 1 Semovente 5/18 tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#IT111) for North Africa
      • 3 M13/40 tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from Wargame Models in Ohio for North Africa (repainted)
      • 2 L6/40 tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from Wargame Models in Ohio for North Africa (repainted)
    • 1 German tank painted for What a Tanker© in North Africa
      • 1 Panzer IVD (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE040) for North Africa
  • Figures assembled (8):
  • Terrain pieces made or assembled (5):
    • 1 German Panzer IVD tank wreck made for North Africa as a terrain piece using a defective tank (15mm/1:100 scale) from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE040) 
    • 4 smoke/blast markers made
  • Terrain pieces painted (5):
    • 4 smoke/blast markers painted
    • 1 German Panzer IVD tank wreck made for North Africa as a terrain piece using a defective tank (15mm/1:100 scale) from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE040) 
  • Game pieces/game aids made or painted (40):

March: 138 projects

  • Figures painted (5):
  • Figures assembled (5):
    •  3 Italian tanks/tank destroyers assembled for What a Tanker© in North Africa
      • 3 M11/39
  • Terrain pieces made or assembled (19):
      • 8 ITC Terrain Series Damaged Urban Barricades assembled
      • 11 smoke/blast markers made
  • Terrain pieces painted (23):
    • 4 berms painted for use with my Wasteland mat
    • 8 ITC Terrain Series Damaged Urban Barricades painted
    • 11 smoke/blast markers painted
  • Game pieces/game aids made or painted (86):
    • 22 dashboards built for What a Tanker© games
    • 64 “Bonus Attack Cards” built for What a Tanker© games
      • 18 Infantry Assault Cards
      • 12 Combat Engineer Cards
      • 12 Artillery Support Cards
      • 12 Anti-Tank Gun Support Cards
      • 12 Air Support Cards

April: 16 projects

  • Figures assembled (16):
    •  11 German tanks/tank destroyers assembled for What a Tanker© in Normandy and the Eastern Front
      • 1 Marder III tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE104) for Normandy
      • 1 Panzer IVE tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE041) for Normandy
      • 5 Panzer IVH tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GBX121)  (2 for Normandy, 3 for the Eastern Front)
      • 1 Panzer IVF2 tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE042)  for the Eastern Front
      • 1 Panther tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE060) for Normandy
      • 2 Tiger I tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GBX107)  (1 for Normandy, 1 for the Eastern Front)
    • 3 American tanks/tank destroyers assembled for What a Tanker© in Normandy 
      • 1 M3A1 Stuart tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#US003) for Normandy
      • 1 M4A2 Sherman tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#US045) for Normandy
      • 1 M10 Wolverine tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#US102) for Normandy
    • 2 American tanks/tank destroyers assembled for What a Tanker© in the ETO
      • 2 M24 Chaffee light tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from some guy on eBay (magnetized turrets and cleaned up model)

May: 25 projects

  • Figures painted (22):
    • 3 American tanks/tank destroyers painted for What a Tanker© in Normandy 
      • 1 M3A1 Stuart tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#US003) for Normandy
      • 1 M4A2 Sherman tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#US045) for Normandy
      • 1 M10 Wolverine tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#US102) for Normandy
    • 2 American tanks/tank destroyers painted for What a Tanker© in the ETO
      • 2 M24 Chaffee light tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from some guy on eBay
    • 17 German tanks/tank destroyers painted for What a Tanker© in Normandy and the Eastern Front
      • 1 Marder III tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE104) for Normandy
      • 1 Panzer IVE tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE041) for Normandy
      • 5 Panzer IVH tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GBX121)  (2 for Normandy, 3 for the Eastern Front)
      • 1 Panzer IVF2 tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE042)  for the Eastern Front
      • 1 Panther tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE060) for Normandy
      • 2 Tiger I tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GBX107)  (1 for Normandy, 1 for the Eastern Front)
      • 1 Elefant/Ferdinand tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#GE132) for Normandy
  • Terrain pieces painted (3):
    • 3 fields painted

June: 190 projects

  • Figures painted (14):
    • 8 German tanks/tank destroyers/armored cars painted for What a Tanker© in Europe and North Africa 
      • 5 German armored cars painted for What a Tanker© in Europe and North Africa
        • 3 SdKfz 231 (15mm/1:100 scale), from The Plastic Soldier Company (#WW2V15031), 2 for North Africa, 1 for Normandy
        • 2 SdKfz 233 (15mm/1:100 scale), from The Plastic Soldier Company (#WW2V15031), both for Normandy
      • 1 Jagdpanther tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), Zveda model – (#Z106) bought from The Plastic Soldier Company
      • 1 Jagdtiger tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), Zveda model – (#Z105) bought from The Plastic Soldier Company
      • 1 Tiger II (King Tiger) tank (15mm/1:100 scale), Zveda model – (#Z101) bought from The Plastic Soldier Company
    • 3 American armored cars painted for What a Tanker© in Europe
    • 3 British armored cars painted for What a Tanker© in Europe
  • Figures assembled (14):
    • 5 German armored cars assembled for What a Tanker©
      • 2 SdKfz 231 (15mm/1:100 scale), from The Plastic Soldier Company (#WW2V15031)
      • 3 SdKfz 233 (15mm/1:100 scale), from The Plastic Soldier Company (#WW2V15031)
    • 3 German tanks/tank destroyers assembled for What a Tanker©
      • 1 Jagdpanther tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), Zveda model – (#Z106) bought from The Plastic Soldier Company
      • 1 Jagdtiger tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), Zveda model – (#Z105) bought from The Plastic Soldier Company
      • 1 Tiger II (King Tiger) tank (15mm/1:100 scale), Zveda model – (#Z101) bought from The Plastic Soldier Company
    • 3 American armored cars painted for What a Tanker© in Europe
      • 3 M8 Greyhound armored cars (15mm/1:100 scale), Old Glory/Command Decision (#CD207) bought from Old Glory Miniatures
    • 3 British armored cars painted for What a Tanker© in Europe
      • 3 Daimler Dingo (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BR310)
  • Game pieces/game aids made or painted (162):

July: 28 projects

  • Figures painted (9):
    • 9 British tanks/tank destroyers painted for What a Tanker© in Normandy campaign/ETO
      • 1 Cromwell Mark IV Cruiser tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BR041)
      • 5 Cromwell Mark IV Cruiser tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BBX31)
      • 2 M10 Achilles tank destroyers (15mm/1:100 scale), from Old Glory Miniatures (#CD-111)
      • 1 Churchill IV heavy infantry tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BR074)
  • Figures assembled (16):
    • 9 British tanks/tank destroyers assembled for What a Tanker© in Normandy campaign/ETO
      • 1 Cromwell Mark IV Cruiser tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BR041)
      • 5 Cromwell Mark IV Cruiser tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BBX31)
      • 2 M10 Achilles tank destroyers (15mm/1:100 scale), from Old Glory Miniatures (#CD-111)
      • 1 Churchill IV heavy infantry tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BR074)
    • 7 American tanks/tank destroyers assembled for What a Tanker© in Normandy campaign/ETO
      • 5 M4A1 Sherman tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BBX42) – British Shermans to be used as Americans
      • 1 M10 Wolverine tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), from Old Glory Miniatures (#CD-111) – Achilles with US gun to be used as an M10 Wolverine
      • 1 M36 Hellcat tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#US106)
  • 1 terrain piece painted
  • 1 figure converted
    • 1 M10 Wolverine tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), from Old Glory Miniatures (#CD-111) – Achilles with US gun converted as an M10 Wolverine
  • 1 creations or components sculpted or scratch-built

August: 49 projects

  • Figures painted (7):
    • 7 American tanks/tank destroyers painted for What a Tanker© in Normandy campaign/ETO
      • 5 M4A1 Sherman tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#BBX42) – British Shermans to be used as Americans
      • 1 M10 Wolverine tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), from Old Glory Miniatures (#CD-111) – Achilles with US gun to be used as an M10 Wolverine
      • 1 M36 Hellcat tank destroyer (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront Miniatures (#US106)
  • Game pieces/game aids made or painted (40):
    • 40 tank destroyed/blast markers made for What a Tanker© games
      • 20 brewed up tank burning markers
      • 20 knocked out/disabled tank smoke markers
  • Molds made (2)

September: 72 projects

October: 23 projects

  • Figures painted (5):
    • 5 classic movie monsters painted for Halloween diorama piece
      • 1 Ral Partha 25mm “Dracula” (#01-014) from the “Personalities and Things that Go Bump in the Night” line, circa 1976.
      • 1 Ral Partha 25mm “The Mummy” (#01-020) from the “Personalities and Things that Go Bump in the Night” line, circa 1976.
      • 1 Ral Partha 25mm “Were Wolf” (#01-061) from the “Personalities and Things that Go Bump in the Night” line, circa 1979.
      • 1 Ral Partha 25mm “Werewolf” (#98-003) from the “The Adventurers” line, circa 1979.
      • 1 Ral Partha 25mm “Frankenstein’s Monster” (#98-003) from the “The Adventurers” line, circa 1979.
  • Terrain pieces painted (4):
    • 4 slag mounds on old CD’s.
  • Creations or components sculpted or scratch-built (1):
    • 1 Halloween Diorama
  • Game pieces/game aids made or painted (13):
    • 11 casualty cards made for “THE MIND AND THE MACRON”
    • 2 unit data cards made for Combat Patrol
      ™

November: 7 projects

  • Figures assembled (7):
    • 3 French tanks assembled for What a Tanker© in France 1940
      • 3 FCM 36 tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from Old Glory Miniatures (#CD-608)
    • 4 figures for my Retrovian Platoon
      • 3 “The Bra’sheer” three-legged Retrovian vehicles, 28mm scale, from Wargames Supply Dump Miniatures Dirk Garrison line (#DG-07)
      • 1 “Garkkon” monster, 28mm scale, from Wargames Supply Dump Miniatures Dirk Garrison line (#DG-11)

December: 104 projects

  • Figures painted (41):
    • 7 French tanks painted for What a Tanker© for France 1940
    • 34 figures for my Retrovian Platoon
      • 3 “The Bra’sheer” three-legged Retrovian vehicles, 28mm scale, from Wargames Supply Dump Miniatures Dirk Garrison line (#DG-07)
      • 1 “Garkkon” monster, 28mm scale, from Wargames Supply Dump Miniatures Dirk Garrison line (#DG-11)
      • 2 “Retrovian Captain” figures, 28mm scale, from Wargames Supply Dump Miniatures Dirk Garrison line (#DG-50)
      • 3 “Retrovian Trooper Aiming Blaster” figures, 28mm scale, from Wargames Supply Dump Miniatures Dirk Garrison line (#DG-54)
      • 15 “Retrovian Trooper Advancing with Blaster” figures, 28mm scale, from Wargames Supply Dump Miniatures Dirk Garrison line (#DG-55)
      • 4 “Retrovian Sniper with Vision Enhancer & Needle Blaster” figures, 28mm scale, from Wargames Supply Dump Miniatures Dirk Garrison line (#DG-56)
      • 6 “Retrovian Two Man Sonic Cannon Team” figures (6 figures total), 28mm scale, from Wargames Supply Dump Miniatures Dirk Garrison line (#DG-58)
  • Figures assembled (10):
    • 10 French tanks/armored cars assembled for What a Tanker© in France 1940
      • 1 Hotchkiss H35 tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront (#FR020)
      • 2 Hotchkiss H39 tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from Battlefront (#FR020)
      • 1 Hotchkiss H39 tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Peter Pig (#PP33)
      • 3 AMC 35 tanks (15mm/1:100 scale), from Old Glory (#CD606)
      • 1 Char D1/D2 tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from QRF (#FFV10)
      • 1 FT-17 tank (15mm/1:100 scale), from Peter Pig (#PP252)
      • 1 Panhard 178 armored car (15mm/1:100 scale), from Peter Pig (#PP25)
  • Game pieces/game aids made or painted (53):
    • 7 dashboards built for French 1940 tanks in What a Tanker© games
      • 3 FCM 36 dashboards
      • 1 H35 dashboard
      • 3 H39 dashboards
    • 6 unit data cards made for my Retrovians use in Combat Patrol
      ™

      retro sci-fi games

    • 3 vehicle data cards made for my Retrovians use in Combat Patrol
      ™

      retro sci-fi games

    • 3 vehicle data cards updated for my Mark 1 Sphere tanks use in Combat Patrol
      ™

       retro sci-fi games

    • 34 casualty cards made for my Retrovians use in Combat Patrol
      ™

       retro sci-fi games

from Mark A. Morin https://markamorin.com/2020/01/03/2019-hobby-gaming-and-blogging-roundup/
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New Year’s Eve Combat Patrol(TM) and Wars of Ozz

Buck

As we have been doing every year since 2009, the Harford Area Weekly Kreigspeilers converged on my house for a New Year’s Eve gaming evening, culminating in the wishing each other a happy new year at midnight. This year we played two games. The first was a science fiction game using Combat Patrol™. As we are in the middle of a move from Maryland to Florida, much of my hobby stuff is already in Florida. I tried to be careful about what I took down and what I kept in Maryland for New Year’s Eve, but in some cases I had taken things to Florida, like the Albedo Combat Patrol ™ units and Eureka toy soldiers that were needed for our games, so we had to adapt.

Science Fiction Attack/Defense

Our first scenario featured Combat Patrol™ WWII, which works very well for science fiction games as well.

Long shot of the table.

The (mostly) human side was attacking from the right side of the table shown in the above picture. They had a full platoon of hardened soldiers, an extra weapon squad, some light tanks, a large squad of space ducks led by Duck Wader, and a reinforced squad of Colonial Marines. Their objective was to capture three supply caches. One was in the walled town in the foreground, one was near the tower in the center of the table, and one was in the walled town at the far edge of the table.

A view of one walled town with a cache of supplies. This town was defended by an ad hoc force of mercenaries (who can be seen on the far two buildings) and a team of space Dwarfs (who can be seen on the near wall).

The attackers had enough forces to attack this town, but it was a hard-fought battle the entire game.

Patrick and Geoff took it in the shorts most of the game.

The attackers had overwhelming numbers to attack the town on their right flank, between the Colonial Marines (Woodbine), space ducks (Archive), and other forces. Geoff and Patrick got slapped around quite a bit, but they were able to blunt the attack and delay the attackers long enough that they were unable to roll up the defenders’ flank.

These are some of the attackers, early in the scenario, from left to right, Tom, Duncan, Eric (standing), Kurt, and Chris.
A view of the defenders’ center with the tower and supplies on the left and one of the walled villages on the right.
The insect men began the game near the water facility. During the game, they tried to turn the attackers’ left flank.
Geoff apparently on the horns of a dilemma.
The heavy infantry (Pig Iron) were supposed by three APCs and a support APC with a tank turret. The Drantakh hover tank (Badger) took TWO shots at the attacking tank but missed both times. Eventually the attacking tank got off a shot and knocked out the Drantakh tank.

On the attackers’ left, they advanced with two squads of infantry and a heavy weapon squad to attack the walled village, but the defenders were rushing reinforcements forward to assist.

Another view of the defenders’ center.
Another view of the tank duel between the Drantakh and the attackers. Note that the attackers were supported by a squad of terminators (in white).
A confused situation with a Drantakh tank (defenders), Drantakh infantry, a mobile engineer demolition gun (defenders), and a half squad of space ducks fighting for position in the center of the battlefield.
Toward the middle of the game, a LARC (Sally 4th) entered the table full of a squad of space worms. Note the close quarters fight between the Colonial Marines and the Drantakh infantry in the woods.

In one turn, we had SIX vehicles blown up, most from shoulder-fired weapons.

The defenders move up an armored car with a ray gun to support their infantry defending their left-most supply cache.
Darth Wader (Archive) leads the ducks forward.
The LARC conducts a vertical envelopment of the walled town.
In this picture you can see that the heavily armored special assault ducks used their jet packs to “bounce” into the town and seize the supplies.
The defenders’ armored car (foreground) has been destroyed, but the fight continues.
The ducks take advantage of bomb craters to advance across the open field.
Advancing Drantakh counter attack supported by the demolition gun.
In this picture you can see all the reinforcements that have been rushed to the village on the defenders’ right.
Space bugs! Dave’s lone squad automatic rifleman held off the bugs for several turns.
A long shot of the table late in the game. You can see that the attackers have gotten to the walls. In the next turn, the attackers climbed over the walls and began chucking grenades into the courtyard.
Another, slightly different, view of the table. The fighting was intense, but despite the facial expressions, these guys were having a lot of fun.

The game was very fun. The defenders were defeated on their left, losing one of their supply caches. On the defenders’ right, they were able to hold onto the village by throwing in Venusian giants, space centaurs, and robot troopers to bolster the ad hoc defenders and space dwarfs. The attackers never really threatened the defenders center. I called the game a defenders’ victory.

Everyone seemed to have a good time, but after four hours of playing we called the game a defenders’ victory and set up the second game for the night.

Wars of Ozz

Both people who read this blog will know that I have been developing a set of rules, called Wars of Ozz, to go along with a new line of figures to be released by Blue Moon. While we don’t have all the figures yet, we have been using ersatz figures for rules development. Traditionally Chris runs a Santa-themed game using GASLIGHT, but this year we wanted to try it with the Wars of Ozz rules. When we reset the game, in the interest of time, we elected to leave the green cloth on the table instead of pulling everything off and putting down the white cloth.

Setting up the game.

I asked several players to bring 12-point armies. You can see in this picture a lot of War of 1812 figures pressed into service as Quadlings.

The game in mid action.

The game involved five attackers (on the right) with Munchkins, Gillikins, and Santa’s troopers attacking to seize three hills across the table. There wasn’t a lot of finesse to the scenario as we didn’t know what armies we would have, how many players we would have, or how long we would have until midnight.

We were able to play about 6 turns before midnight, paused briefly for a glass of champaign, and then 2 more turns after midnight before everyone went their own ways. After three or four turns, I was mostly relegated to answering the occasional question and making game master adjudication decisions. Most of the players had never played Wars of Ozz before, but they caught on quickly. Toward the end, one of the players who is often critical said he liked the rules and would be interesting in playing them again.

Happy New Year!

We had a very good time. With the upcoming move, I was on the fence about whether this was going to be just one commitment too many this season. I’m glad we hosted the event, and I think all the HAWKs had a good time in the basement, while HAWKs gaming widows sat upstairs in the kitchen drinking wine and husband bashing.

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French Armor for the 80th Anniversary of the Battle of France: Hotchkiss H35 and H39 Light Cavalry Tanks

Mark A. Morin

Amazingly, this upcoming May-June 2020 will mark the 80th anniversary of the Battle of France.  I am curious as to how it will be remembered – if at all.  Certainly I would think that both the French and the Germans will likely shy away from commemorating the event for diametrically opposed reasons.  Yet, it is definitely worth remembering it as a seminal event that without question fashioned all of the world’s history since.

I have studied this battle since my days at West Point.  I was fortunate there to study with the then-USMA Department of History Chair COL Robert A. Doughty (now a retired Brigadier General).  I was able to participate in a class (HI498 – a colloquium) with him and just one other cadet during my second semester senior year as part of my concentration of studies in French.  A side note – my class – 1984 – was the last class not to have majors – we had concentrations.  This meant we could choose 8 classes outside of the 44 classes in the core curriculum.  As I love military history, especially French military history, this colloquium was a great opportunity.  We studied Alistair Horne’s works among others.

BG Doughty has authored many books (just check out this list on Amazon), many that focus on France from WWI to WWII.  I recently got two excellent books on the subject that he published after I graduated that I have not read: The Seeds of Disaster: The Development of French Army Doctrine, 1919-39, (which discusses how the French Army came to set themselves up for disaster) and The Breaking Point  (dealing with the pivotal Sedan breakthrough in 1940).  I also plan on rereading Alistair Horne’s To Lose a Battle: France 1940 as well.

The reason for all this reading and research is (well, besides for pure pleasure) to prepare myself to be fully knowledgeable ready to run several tank battle games set in France in May-June 1940 using the What a Tanker© rules.  Obviously, the games will be, at best, an abstraction of what happened.  However, I wanted to have requisite knowledge of the battle and to prepare and build suitable models for both sides to give a proper flavor to the conflict that shocked the world.  I did get an A- in the colloquium, but that was 35½ years ago, I want to refresh!

Previously, I have built French and German tanks and run several France 1940 games described in this blog – but my 15mm/1:100 scale tank inventory was quite lacking in terms of the wide variety of vehicles used.  I aim to remedy that.  I am currently planning on running a game at TotalCon in February, and at HAVOC in April.  I may do others as well, plus club gaming sessions.  This blog post describes the first chapter of my preparation and force building upgrades for those events – four Hotchkiss light cavalry tanks (one H35 and three H39’s).

I will go over a bit of history of the Hotchkiss tanks and then show some WIP shots of the models.  I will then share some eye-candy shots of the finished models.  Lastly, as per usual, I will share the paints and materials used in this project.

The H35 tank was originally rejected by the infantry, who chose the R35 instead.  It was intended to be a light cavalry tank, though it did equip some infantry tank units as well.  Hotchkiss built around 1200 H35’s and H39’s, with the majority being H35’s.  The Hotchkiss company was actually founded by an American from Connecticut, Benjamin Hotchkiss.  He was a Union ordnance engineer at Colt and a munitions builder during the American Civil War.  Finding no US business after that conflict, he moved to France and set up his own company.

The H35 and H39 both had the same  37mm SA18 gun that many French tanks had though the H39 had a longer barrel with better armor penetration (30mm vs 23mm of armor with the shorter barrel).  Given that a Panzer IIIE of the time had 30mm of armor all around, this was not adequate to be sure.  It had a crew of just two, which made it challenging to operate effectively in battle.  Three out of four of the armored divisions’ tank regiments had Hotchkiss tanks (the other one had SOMUA S35’s).  The armor was adequate, but with a range of only 80 miles and a top speed of 17 mph, it was not very cavalry-like.  On top of it all, it was tough to drive and mechanically unreliable.

After France capitulated, both Germany and Italy got Hotchkiss tanks.  Some of these Italian vehicles faced US Army Rangers in Sicily.  After the war, some Hotchkiss tanks served on with the Israeli Defense Force until 1952.

I acquired a 3-vehicle packet from Battlefront Miniatures (#FR020) and one single H39 vehicle from Peter Pig (#PP33).  The Battlefront ones could be either H35’s or H39’s.  In the end, one of the H35 guns was unsatisfactory, so I ended up with one H35 and three H39’s.  In the game, there are no differences statistically between the two types.

1 Hotchkiss tanks at startHere are the models – the Peter Pig one was all metal.  The Battlefront ones had two different engine hatches depending on what version was to be built.  These were relatively easy to assemble and prep for painting.2 Hotchkiss tanks assembledAssembled and magnetized Hotchkiss tanks.  From left to right, Peter Pig H39, Battlefront H35, and two Battlefront H39’s.  3 H35 assembledThe Battlefront H35 gun was drilled in and affixed with Gorilla Glue.  Later, the drill holes were filled with kneadatite (green stuff).4 H39 Bottom Peter Pig assembledThe bottom of the Peter Pig H39 model.  For reinforcement of the tracks, I added green stuff under the chassis.  I also added a magnet to the inside of the turret so my knocked out tank blast markers would stick to an otherwise non-magnetic model.5 H39 Battlefront assembledH39 showing green stuff around the longer gun.6 Hotchkiss tank chassis painting mountsMy mounting arrangement for the tanks.  I did paint and varnish the tracks first.7 Hotchkiss tank turrets painting mountsTurrets ready to paint.8 Tracks first!This shows the H35 after the tracks were painted, washed, and lightly varnished.9 Double Primed showing metal exposureThen the models were mounted and primed.  I had a challenge priming the exposed metal parts as you see here – I needed a few thin coats.9a Double Primed showing metal exposureThe priming issue (exposed metal) was more difficult for the Peter Pig model as it was all metal.10 H35 masked for airbrushAfter priming, the H35 awaits set up for base coat painting.  Protecting the already painted tracks with poster tack was the first step.11 H35 masked for airbrush camoI was not thrilled with the yellow, but I darkened it.  Here, I applied more poster tack to apply a camouflage pattern.12 H39 masked for airbrush camoThe H39’s got their base coats, and then I used an Iwata Micron airbrush to blend in some browns on the green.  As I researched tanks of this era on the French side, I found that there was no standardization of tank painting schemes.13 H35 masked for airbrush camo afterThe H35 under the poster tack for a camouflage scheme.  14 H39 close up after camoThe Peter Pig H39 model showing the added brown color airbrushed across the tank.15 H35 close up after camoAfter removing the poster tack from the H35, this was the result.  16 H39 close up before decals and weatheringI then washed the vehicles with Army Painter Military Shader.  All that was left was adding decals, weathering, and final varnishing.18 Tiny decalsBattlefront decals – so tiny.  I still do not understand why the roundels are two piece decals.

Now, I would like to share the finished vehicles – eye candy (at least I hope you find them nice to look at).

Battlefront H35

1 H35 left sideRight side view, Battlefront H352 H35 frontsideFront view, Battlefront H353 H35 right sideLeft side view of the H35.  The number is helpful for tabletop ID, but is historically correct.  The unit insignia is from the 4eme regiment de cuirassiers, part of the 1st Light Mechanized Division (DLM).4 H35 rear viewThe roundel on the back right.   1a H35 left sideHow I planned the paint job – I am hoping to get better tan/yellow tan paint for future French use, but after washing/shading, I think this is fine.  Do you?

Battlefront H39’s (two)

5 H39 (B model) left sideBattlefront H39 “#8” left side.  6 H39 (B model) left front sideBattlefront H39 “#8” left front side.7 H39 (B model) left rear sideBattlefront H39 “#8” rear view.8 H39 (B model) right sideBattlefront H39 “#8” right side.5b H39 (B model) left sideMy plan for the “#8”.12 H39 (D model) right sideBattlefront H39 “#64” left side.  This was the only Hotchkiss tank I built with a number on the right side of the turret.  Again, markings were definitely not standardized.13 H39 (D model) right front sideBattlefront H39 “#64” right front side.14 H39 (D model) left sideBattlefront H39 “#64” right side.15 H39 (D model) rear viewBattlefront H39 “#64” rear view.12a H39 (D model) right sideHow I modeled the vehicle.

Peter Pig H39

9 H39 (C model) left front sidePeter Pig H39 “#21” front left view.
10 H39 (C model) right sidePeter Pig H39 “#21” right side view.  After weathering was added, the side looked similar to the Battlefront models.9a H39 (C model) left front sideI did not have a #41!11 comparing Peter Pig vs BattlefrontThis is a side-by-side comparison of the Battlefront (left) and Peter Pig (right) H39’s.  I like both – though my preference is for the Battlefront models – which are resin and metal.  However, many of the models I need for this project are hard to find and not made by Battlefront, and sometimes with some manufacturers you need to buy up to five vehicles.  With Peter Pig, I can just get one  vehicle (QRF with metal models sells one at a time as well – and you’ll see some of their vehicles soon too).  Old Glory usually sells 3 vehicles (all metal) in a pack.

Group Shots

16 Group Shot16a Group Shot

This concludes my very last post of 2020 – and the beginning of this project.  (I will be doing a 2019 round up of course – but that will be coming later this week).

More Battle of France vehicles (French and German) will be coming and I hope that you will find them interesting.  If you have any feedback, good, bad or otherwise, let me know in the comments section – I do appreciate knowing what you think.

Thanks for looking and Happy 2020!

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE USED ON THESE VEHICLES:

  1. Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol 91%
  2. Microscale Liquid Decal Film
  3. 1/8″ neodymium magnets
  4. Green stuff (kneadatite)
  5. Gorilla Glue
  6. Poster tack and ¼” square wooden dowels on plastic plates
  7. Reaper MSP “Black Primer”
  8. Vallejo “Black Grey”
  9. Vallejo “Surface Primer – USA Olive Drab”
  10. Vallejo “Flow Improver”
  11. Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
  12. Vallejo Model Air “Pale Green”
  13. Vallejo Game Air “Black”
  14. Battlefront “Army Green”
  15. Army Painter “Military Shader” (shade)
  16. Battlefront “Dark Gunmetal”
  17. Vallejo Model Air “Rust” (71.080)
  18. Vallejo Model Air “Matt Varnish”
  19. Vallejo Model Air “Sand Yellow” (H35 only)
  20. Battlefront “Army Green”
  21. Vallejo Model Air “Dark Brown” (H39’s only)
  22. Battlefront “Oxide Red”
  23. Vallejo Model Air “Glass Varnish”
  24. Appropriate decals from Battlefront
  25. Microscale Micro-Set
  26. Microscale Micro-Sol
  27. Vallejo Weathering Effects “European Thick Mud”
  28. Vallejo Weathering Effects “European Splash Mud”
  29. Vallejo Weathering Effects “Crushed Grass”
  30. Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matt Varnish”

from Mark A. Morin https://markamorin.com/2019/12/31/french-armor-for-the-80th-anniversary-of-the-battle-of-france-hotchkiss-h35-and-h39-light-cavalry-tanks/
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Additional Munchkin Units Painted

Buck

The focus the last two weeks has been on family holiday activities; however, in the mornings while other slept I did manage to get a few more Munchkin units painted — minus the mounted leaders which I do not yet have. These last units were painted almost exclusively with Contrast paints, as an experiment. I am happy with the results.

Colonel Sourdough’s regiment.
A slightly closer view of Colonel Sourdough’s regiment.

There are four named regiments in the Munchkin army: Colonels Ticktock, Sourdough, and Hardsole plus Zoraster the Wizard’s body guard.

Munchkin Landwher, which make up the bulk of the Munchkin army.
A closer look at the Munchkin Landwher

Note that Munchkin and Quadlings infantry regiments carry a national color as well as a regimental color.

A frontal view of Zoraster’s Body Guard.
The rear of Zoraster’s Body Guard.

I host a New Years Eve game for my gaming club, the Harford Area Weekly Kreigspeilers (HAWKs). Our second game tonight will feature the under-development Wars of Ozz rules in a Santa themed game. We will use those figures from the Blue Moon line that we have acquired, but most of the units will be filled by ersatz figures. I will try to post pictures of the game tomorrow.

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Townsfolk Milkmaid: Bones 4 Figure

Chris Palmer

This past week, with all our Christmas preperations going on, I didn’t have a lot of time for painting; so I selected the Milkmaid from the Bones 4 Core Set Townsfolk II group to work on.
     I prepped the figure in the usual way, soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  I then glued the figure to a black-primed 1" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then placed the figure in my painting grip.

     I began by painting her skin with Reaper MSP “Tanned Skin”, and then her dress with Reaper MSP Bones “Tropical Blue”.  I then painted her apron, shirt, and bonnet with Americana “Grey Sky”, and after that I did her bucket with Ceramcoat :territorial Beige", and the rope handle with Folk Art “Barn Wood”.

     After the paint had time to dry, I applied a thinned wash of Iron wind metals “Dark Blue” Ink to the dress.  When that was dry, I did a coat of Citadel “Reikland Fleshshade” wash to her skin, and when it was dry, a coat of Citadel “Nuln Oil” to her apron, shirt, and bonnet. I followed with a coat of Citidel “Agrax Earthsahde” to her bucket.

     When all the washes were dry, I painted her eyes, and then highlighted her face with Reaper MSP “Tanned Highlight”, and I mixed in a little Americana “Shading Flesh” to paint her lips.

     Next, I highlighted her dress using, first, the base “Tropical Blue”, then Crafter’s Acrylic  “Tropical Blue”, and finally Crafter’s Acrylic “Cool Blue”.  I then highlighted her shirt, apron, and bonnet, using Americana “Snow White”.  After that, I did the highlights on the bucket using Folk Art “Butter Pecan”, and the rope using the base “Barn Wood”.  Lastly, I painted the entire base with Americana “Mississippi Mud”.
      I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish. I then used some white glue to glue some fine sand to the base.  When the sand was dry, I painted it with a coat of Americana “Raw Umber”. When this was dry, I drybrushed the sand with the “Territorial Beige”, and then with some of the “Butter Pecan”; lastly I drybrushed it with a little Americana “Bleached Sand”.
      Another overnight dry, and I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote".

     Considering it was a very quick paint job, squeezed in here and there as time permitted, I am pleased. 

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2019/12/townsfolk-milkmaid-bones-4-figure.html
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RETROVIANS!

Mark A. Morin

Back in March of 2017, I learned that the UK-based War Games Supply Dump Miniatures was closing after thirteen years of business.  My problem at that time was that I had wanted to get more of their fun-looking retro-sci-fi figures.  I had already very much enjoyed painting the Khang Robots I got from WSD for my Warbot platoon that serve as squad leaders in that unit.  I had also seen many of WSD’s Dirk Garrison sci-fi line figures on Buck Surdu’s blog.  I needed to get some while it was still possible to add to my forces for Combat Patrol™ retro-sci-fi games.

As time was limited (as was Roger’s remaining inventory) I placed a sizable order with Roger for several groups of 28mm scale figures that would be suitable for building platoons – including Khanopians, Valkyrie Space Pirates, and miscellaneous items such as Space Munchkins and my Robo-servo Guns that I posted about here previously.  After finishing my Macron unit, I decided that it was time to get some of these languishing WSD projects painted, starting with the Retrovians.

By the way, many of you who follow this blog may recognize Roger as the author of the blog “Rantings from Under the Wargames Table” – a fun blog that unfortunately Roger ended in April of this year (you are indeed missed Roger!).

I was not able to order all of the Retrovian models, but a decent assortment of ones of different poses.  I got the following 34 from Roger to build a Retrovian platoon:

  • 3 DG-07 “The Bra’sheer” figures/three-legged vehicles
  • 1 DG-11 “Garkkon” figure (Retrovian Monster)
  • 2 DG-50 “Retrovian Captain w. Sword & Pistol” figures
  • 3 DG-54 “Retrovian Trooper Aiming Blaster” figures
  • 15 DG-55 “Retrovian Trooper Advancing w. Blaster” figures
  • 4 DG-56 “Retrovian Sniper w. Vision Enhancer & Needle Blaster” figures
  • 6 DG-56 “Retrovian Two Man Sonic Cannon Team” crew figures (one had a sonic cannon, one had a pair of sci-fi binoculars – 3 of each)

In deciding how to construct the platoon, I needed to consider how to build something that would be useful as a unit – and that would have some sense as to its build.  I also have been watching a number of early 2000’s Star Trek “Enterprise” episodes (that I never saw when the series ran).  I have become very fond of the Andorians – and Jeffrey Comb’s portrayal of Commander Shran.  The Andorians had not been much seen in the Trek universe since the original 1960’s Star Trek.  I decided that in homage the Retrovian platoon would be completed as blue skins and with some Andorian names.

Andorrians (2)I had these dudes – less antennae – as color inspiration.

As far as structure, I had enough to create three line squads of two teams.  There would be 10 figures in a squad: a squad leader, an A team of a team leader and four troopers, a B team of a team leader (the binocular half of the Sonic Cannon team), a Sonic Cannon gunner, a marksman/sniper, and a Bra’sheer Assault Pod.  The Bra’sheer I envisioned as having an automatic weapon and mechanical claws that could tear apart obstacles, walls, or enemies’ heads and limbs.

That left me with enough figures to make two other sections.  The first is an HQ section (composed of a platoon leader and a platoon sergeant).  The second is a Garkkon section (reporting to the platoon sergeant or platoon leader) with a marksman in control of a giant Garkkon monster suitable for melee.  The Garkkon is a hybrid of a fish, a lizard, and a giant chicken – it’s quite amusing to look at.

Retrovian Unit OrganizationThe Retrovian Platoon organization.  Each die represents an element that can be activated in a Combat Patrol game.  The platoon therefore has 9 possible elements that could be activated.

I will share how I assembled and painted the Bra’sheer pods and the Garkkon, then go into the infantry.  Then I’ll share some eye candy that I hope you will like, as well as a glimpse into some of the play aids I made (with help from Buck Surdu) for these in club or convention game play.  Lastly, I will share a list of the paints and materials used in the making of this platoon for those interested.

The Bra’sheer

I believe the Bra’sheer were sculpted by Brad Shier – given their names.  The three Bra’sheer figures were, like all of these, great sculpts.  As I had three, it made sense to assign one per each squad on the B teams.  Assembly-wise, I did have a good amount of filing and filling with green stuff to do on these.  Also, the process of assembly was a bit difficult as I wanted to get the legs in position such that the chassis were level.  I ended up needing to affix one leg at a time and check if they were level.

1 Assembled Bra'sheerThe Bra’sheers in front of the 2″ steel fender washer bases – that also had 1.25″ steel fender washers, .5″ stainless steel fender washers, and polystyrene card as part of the base.  The Garkkon is on the right (more on it later).2 Assembled Bra'sheer with green stuffClose up of the assembled Bra’sheer3 Assembled Bra'sheer with basingI took the multi-washer bases and scribed the leg positions on them in pencil.  Then I added Apoxie Sculpt, and some Army Painter flocking (see materials list at end of this post).  Once this had hardened overnight, I affixed the Bra’sheer with E6000 to the bases.  Here, these look like bad cookies…4 Bra'sheer with poster tackHere you see a primed Bra’sheer with green stuff additions to the chassis and some poster tack on the crewman.  I needed to add green stuff to fill in gaps and make the legs structurally strong.  There were mold lines on the legs that short of obliterating the detail I could not get rid of – so I dealt with these later with painting.  The poster tack was to protect the crewman from being painted with the pearlized blue paint I used on the chassis.5 Bra'sheer after base coatAfter painting the legs and the chassis.  The legs were heavily shaded after the pearlized paint was applied to mitigate the mold lines.5 Bra'sheer after washes and painting basesThe model is in the final stages here – I used multiple paints and products on the bases alone.  The Bra’sheer were the only Retrovians with “veiny” heads

The Garkkon

1 Garkkon unassembledThe Garkkon as received.  I do not know why it came with an anchor, but I decided not to use it on the model.  It, like the Bra’sheer, had similar assembly challenges.2 Garkkon unassembled with washerHere’s a better view of the base I used – it’s pretty heavy!3 Garkkon unassembled with pinsMultiple drill holes and pinning were needed, plus green stuff to stiffen the structure.4 Garkkon assembly set upAs the E6000 hardened overnight, I had this Rube Goldberg way of stabilizing the model.5 Garkkon assembledGarkkon assembled.6 Garkkon with baseI used green stuff here on the limbs and on the base.  I chose to do the other bases with Apoxie Sculpt.7 Garkkon base coatedThis is early and fairly gaudy in the painting process – on purpose.  My hope was to use contrast paints and let the light blue here to be the same color as the infantry flesh.  As you will see, I needed to adjust my plans.  I also wanted to adjust the yellows here.7a Garkkon base coatedSide view of the previous stage picture.8 Garkkon applying Aethermatic BlueI added Aethermatic Blue Contrast Paint to the blue – and ended up with a look that was more green than blue.  This is mid-painting to show the difference (the head has the contrast paint at this point).  I ended up finishing the Garkkon blue with the contrast paint, and finding another path for the Retrovian infantry’s flesh color.8a Garkkon applying Aethermatic BlueThis is after I finished the Garkkon’s initial flesh color.9 Garkkon after painting baseAfter some more shading, some highlighting, and some glazes, I moved on to the Garkkon base.

Retrovian Infantry

1 Retrovian Platoon startGetting organized…2 Retrovian Platoon ready for paintingInitial mounting on fender washers after filing and cleaning.  I used slightly larger bases for the Sonic Cannon Gunners and the Marksmen out of necessity.3 Retrovian Platoon after basing with Apoxie SculptAfter I added Apoxie Sculpt on the bases and let it harden for a day.4 Retrovian Platoon aftermounting for paintingHere you see the platoon ready for priming and painted as mounted on the specimen jars with poster tack.5 Retrovian Platoon after Talassar BlueI used Talassar Blue on the boots and the tunics.6 Retrovian Platoon after Akhelian GreenThen I used Akhelian green on the pants – and each squad got a different contrast paint color on the shoulder pads.  Here, first squad had Nazdreg Yellow  – which ended up looking leather-like.7 Retrovian Platoon further progressSimilarly, 2nd squad and third squad got Gryph-Charger Grey and Volupus Pink respectively.  The platoon leader (Commander Schran) got Blood Angels Red, while the platoon sergeant and the Garkkon controller got Ultramarines Blue.  I found that these contrast paints needed a few thin coats to be useful.8 Retrovian Captain progressCommander Schran mid-stage.9 Retrovian Sonic Cannon Gunner progressThe Sonic Gunner from 3rd Squad’s B team mid-stage.10 Retrovian Platoon before washesFor ease of play on the tabletop, in addition to the different shoulder pad colors, the leaders had different colors on their helmets.  Red indicates the platoon leader, blue indicates the platoon sergeant and squad leaders, and green indicated the team leaders.  Others just got a metallic black helmet.11 Retrovian Captain progressAs discussed above, the flesh color on the Garkkon was not what I wanted on these guys.  The faces are very cool, and I ended up using Army Painter Quickshade Blue Tone over the light blue – and I was very pleased with the result.  This is Commander Schran again, and I also wanted to make these swords special – so I brush painted them with the same metallic blue as the Bra’sheer chassis – and called them “Frostblades” – giving them a minor anti-armor capability.12 Retrovian Platoon further progressClose to the finish with the bases remaining to be done.13 Retrovian Platoon before base drybrushingReady to dry brush the bases!15 Retrovian Platoon Team Leader after layer 1 base drybrushingA 3rd Squad trooper with base complete and ready for varnish .16 Retrovian Platoon complete in boxCompleted platoon in the transport box!

Eye Candy of painted Retrovian Platoon and Combat Patrol™ Game Aids

Platoon HQ:

1 Commander ShranCommander Shran, front view1a Commander ShranCommander Shran, rear view

2 SFC Thelev

Platoon Sergeant, SFC Thelev

Garkkon Section:

4 SSG Ushaan-TorSSG Ushaan-Tor, Garkkon Controller5 GarkkonGarkkon front4a Garkkon BackGarkkon back view3 SSG Ushaan-Tor and GarkkonGarkkon SectionRetrovian Unit data Cards (2)Unit Data Card for the Garkkon Section

1st Squad:

6 1st squad leader SSG Kumari1st Squad Leader, SSG Kumari11 1st squad A team trooper #41st Squad Trooper (A Team)13 1st Squad B Team Sonic Cannon Gunner1st Squad Sonic Cannon Gunner (B Team)14 1st Squad B Team Marksman1st Squad Marksman/Sniper (B Team)15 1st Squad B Team Bra'sheer1st Squad Bra’sheerBra'sheer vehicle data cards (2)Bra’sheer Vehicle Data Card.  The numbers in red circles refer to armor factors.  These would be the same for each pod.7 1st Squad1st Squad

2nd Squad:

16 2nd squad leader SSG Talas2nd Squad Leader, SSG Talas

19 2nd squad A team trooper #2

2nd Squad Trooper (A Team)

23 2nd Squad B Team Sonic Cannon Gunner2nd Squad Sonic Gunner (B Team)24 2nd Squad B Team Marksman2nd Squad Marksman/Sniper (B Team)25 2nd Squad B Team Bra'sheer2nd Squad Bra’sheer (B Team)8 2nd Squad2nd Squad

3rd Squad:

26 3rd squad leader SSG Aenar3rd Squad Leader, SSG Aenar28 3rd squad A team trooper #13rd Squad Trooper (Team A)33 3rd Squad B Team Sonic Cannon Gunner3rd Squad Sonic Gunner (Team B)34 3rd Squad B Team Marksman3rd Squad Marksman/Sniper (Team B)Retrovian Unit data Cards (4)Unit data card example – 3rd Squad35 3rd Squad B Team Bra'sheer3rd Squad Bra’sheer (Team B)9 3rd Squad3rd Squad

Retrovian Platoon (group shots):

5 Command GroupCommand and Garkkon Section6 Bra'sheer groupAll three Bra’sheers10 Retrovian Pano 1Retrovian Platoon!11 Retrovian Pano 2Retrovian Platoon (top view)

This project took a bit longer than I expected it to – about 3-4 weeks – but it was rewarding.  I do hope that you found it interesting and fun to look at – so let me know in the comments section – good or bad.  Did you pick up on any Andorian references here? 

On to the next challenge!

As an FYI, I have updated the Lost Minis Wiki with shots of these figures.  And, to boot, I am entering this platoon in Azazel’s Destino December ’19 Community Painting Challenge – it meets the criteria!

Thanks again for looking – and until next time, all the best to you and yours!

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE USED ON THESE FIGURES:

  1. Gorilla Glue
  2. E6000 epoxy
  3. Small paper clip wire
  4. 2″ Everbilt steel fender washers ( bases for Garkkon and Bra’sheers)
  5. 1¼” Everbilt steel fender washers (added to Garkkon and Bra’sheers on 2″ steel fender washers; used as bases for Retrovian Marksmen/Snipers and Sonic Cannon Gunners)
  6. ½” stainless steel fender washers as fillers in bottom of 2″ steel fender washer holes (Garkkon and Bra’sheers)
  7. Evergreen polystyrene #9020 card (0.020″ thick) on top of 2″ steel washer holes (Garkkon and Bra’sheers)
  8. Green stuff (kneadatite)
  9. 1″ steel fender washers (used as bases for remaining Retrovian infantry figures)
  10. Apoxie Sculpt
  11. Army Painter “Battlefield Rocks” flocking (put into Apoxie Sculpt on Bra’sheer bases)
  12. Army Painter “Black Battlefields” flocking (put into Apoxie Sculpt on Bra’sheer bases)
  13. Poster tack to mount figures to specimen jars for painting
  14. Vallejo “Surface Primer – Black” (on exposed steel and polystyrene on bases)
  15. Vallejo “Surface Primer – White”
  16. Vallejo “Flow Improver”
  17. Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
  18. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Talassar Blue”
  19. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Akhelian Green” (except for Bra’sheers)
  20. Vallejo Game Air “White Grey”
  21. Vallejo Mecha Color “Fluorescent Yellow” (Garkkon eyes)
  22. Vallejo Game Air “Moon Yellow” (Garkkon claws and teeth)
  23. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Blood Angels Red” (Platoon Commander)
  24. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Ultramarines Blue” (Platoon Sergeant and Garkkon Controller)
  25. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Iyanden Yellow” (1st Squad)
  26. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Gryph-Charger Grey” (2nd Squad)
  27. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Volupus Pink” (3rd Squad)
  28. Citadel “Lamenters Yellow” (glaze)
  29. Vallejo Mecha Color “Sky Blue”
  30. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Aethermatic Blue” (Garkkon only)
  31. DecoArt “Festive Red” (Platoon Leader’s helmet)
  32. Vallejo Mecha Color “Metallic Blue” (Squad Leaders’ helmets)
  33. Vallejo Mecha Color “Metallic Green” (Team Leaders’ helmets)
  34. Vallejo Model Air “Black (metallic)” (all others’ helmets and weapons)
  35. Createx Airbrush Colors “Pearl Blue (0304)” (Bra’sheers’ chassis, legs, and Frostblades)
  36. Citadel “Drakenhof Nightshade” (shade on Bra’sheers’ legs)
  37. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Iyanden Yellow”
  38. Polly Scale “WWII German Armor Green” (2nd Squad)
  39. P3 “Cygnar Blue Highlight” (Bra’sheer crewmen)
  40. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Magos Purple” (infantry weapons)
  41. Army Painter “ Quickshade Blue Tone” (wash on all Retrovian flesh)
  42. Army Painter “Quickshade Purple Tone” (wash on infantry weapons)
  43. Tamiya “Flat Aluminum XF-16” (dry brush on Bra’sheer claws)
  44. Citadel “Nuln Oil” (shade)
  45. Citadel “Astrogranite” (on bases)
  46. Citadel “Astrogranite Debris” (on bases)
  47. Citadel “Druchi Violet” (wash on bases)
  48. Citadel “Daemonette Hide” (dry brush on bases)
  49. Citadel “Warpfiend Grey” (dry brush on bases)
  50. Citadel “Slaneesh Grey” (dry brush on bases)
  51. Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matt Varnish”

from Mark A. Morin https://markamorin.com/2019/12/15/retrovians/
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Colonel TicToc’s Regiment

Buck

Despite a lot of business travel and preparations to move households, I managed to complete another regiment of Ozz figures from Blue Moon. This is Colonel TicToc’s regiment. These will be released for sale in March. In the meantime, development of the Wars of Ozz rules continues apace. This regiment is missing the mounted Colonel TicToc, but that will come soon.

Close shot of the center of the regiment with the command group
The regiment in line
Another view of the regiment in line

An infantry regiment in Wars of Ozz generally consists of five infantry bases, with four figures each, plus a mounted colonel. This gives the table a really nice, old-school look.

I have two more regiments on the painting table that will be completed before Christmas.

When figures are sold, a box will come with a sheet of flags.

from Buck’s Blog http://bucksurdu.com/blog/?p=9307
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from Tumblr https://harfordhawks.tumblr.com/post/189616225648
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