Count Lorenth: Bones 2 Figure

Chris Palmer

     Back in June I painted the Count Lorenth figure from the Bones 2 Expansion Set 2, to enter in the Reaper Facebook Page’s Summer Painting Contest.  I had to enter anonymously, so I wasn’t able to identify myself as the painter until after the contest was over.  The contest ended last week, so I can now post this article.  I didn’t fare too well with my game table style up against really top notch display painters, garnering only 22 votes; but it was fun to take part.
    While I didn’t personally get the Expansion Set 2 during the Bones 2 Kickstarter, I was able to pick up this figure in a trade a while back.
        The figure comes with the rider already attached, so the first thing I did was pry him off his mount to make painting easier.  I forgot to take a photo of the figure before I disassembled it, so here is one from the Reaper store.

I then prepped both pieces in the usual way, soaking them in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving them a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying them.    I then trimmed the horse’s base and glued it to a black-primed 1.25" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue.   And, when the glue was dry,  I put it in my Citadel painting grip.

     I began by painting the entire figure with Ceramcoat “Black”.  I then drybrushed the caparison with Americana “Neutral Grey”, followed by a lighter drybrushing of Folk Art “Platinum Gray”.  Next, I drybrushed the main and tail with Citadel “The Fang”, and after that I drybrushed the body of the horse where it could be seen, with Folk Art “Barn Wood”.

     I then painted the barding with Folk Art Color Shift “Black Flash”, and the saddle and reins with Reaper MSP “Coal Black”.  After that, I painted the decorative metal parts with Ceramcoat “Bronze”.

     Next, I applied a wash to the barding, and decorative Bronze medallions on the horses rump, and the decorative chest piece, using some Citadel Nuln Oil wash.“  Then, when the wash was dry, I highlighted the barding with some of the "Black Flash” mixed with a little Ceramcoat “Metallic Silver”, and highlighted the decorative bits I had painted Bronze with some Ceramcoat “Wedding Gold”.  I then highlighted the saddle and reins with some Apple Barrel “Apple Black Green”.   After that, I free-handed some blank skulls on each side of the caparison using Ceramcoat “White”.

     I then finished painting the faces on the skulls, and then I painted the horse’s hooves with Americana “Charcoal Grey”.  After that, I painted the horses eyes, and some dripping gore on his nostrils and hooves with Ceramcoat “Cherry Brown”, and then highlighted the eyes and gore with some Ceramcoat “Opaque Red”.  I also used the “Opaque Red” to paint a tear on each skull, and lastly, painted the figure’s base with some Americana “Raw Umber”.
       I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish. 
     I wanted to decorate the base somehow, so I tossed about some ideas in my head, and decided on having some undead skeletons emerging from the ground in the wake of their evil lord.   So after scrounging around a little, I found an extra copy of the Skeleton Warrior Sword figure I had, and proceeded to chop him up into some useable pieces.    I glued his upper torso to one side of the base, and half his shield to the other side, using the Aleene’s Tacky glue.  While the glue was still wet, I sprinkled a little sand over it.  Then when the Tacky glue was dry, I covered the rest of the base with white glue, and covered it in a course sand mixture.

      When all the glue was dry, I painted the skeleton with Americana “Antique White”, and the front of the shield with the “Black Cherry”.  Next, I painted  the back of the shield with Americana “Mississippi Mud”, and then the sword and the rim of the shield with Ceramcoat “Walnut”.   When all the paint was dry, I gave the skeleton and shield a wash with the “Nuln Oil” wash.  When that was dry, I went over it again with some Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash.

         When the wash was dry, I painted the skeleton with Americana “Bleached Sand”.  I then “rusted” the sword, and shield rim and hub, by splotching it with Crafter’s Edition “Spice Brown”, and then Accent “Golden Oxide”.  I then painted the sand base with the Walnut", followed by drybrushes with Americana “Mississippi mud”, and then Folk Art “Barn Word”, and lastly some of the “Bleached Sand”. 
     I let the base dry overnight and the next day I glued on some bits of grass tufts.   Another overnight dry, and I sprayed the horse and base with Testor’s Dullcote".
      Next, I worked on the knight.   I put him in an alligator clip to make holding him easier.

    Much like the horse’s barding,  I began by painting the whole knight with Black, and then painted his armor with the Color Shift “Black Flash”.  When dry, I gave the armor a wash with the “Nuln Oil, and then when the wash was dry, drybrushed it with some of the "Black Flash” mixed with a little of the “Metallic Silver”

      Next, I re painted the shield Black.  I then worked on the visor, which I hoped to make look like it was glowing.  I first painted it with White, and then painted it with Nicole’s"Neon Green"., and lightly drybrushed some of the “Neon Green on the surrounding armor.  I then painted a thin strip on the inside of the open visor with the White again, slightly thinned.

     Next, I painted the decorations on the shield, and the hilt of the sword with the "Bronze”.  I then painted the blade of the sword with Reaper MSP Bones “Cinnamon Red”, and went dry, went over it with a mix of the “Cinnimon Red” and some Folk Art Color Shift “Red Flash”.  I wasn’t happy with the outcome, so I tried panting over it again with some Folk Art Metallic “Bright Red”.  I liked that better.  When it was dry, I did some light highlights across the blade with the “Metallic Silver”.  I then highlighted the decorative bits on the shield and the hilt, that I had originally painted Bronze, with some of the  “Wedding Gold”.  I then highlighted the edges of the shield with some Apple Barrel “Apple Black Green”.
      An overnight dry, and I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote".   I then glued the two pieces together, and it was done.

I’m pretty happy with the way he turned out, even if he isn’t competition worthy.  If I have ever have an undead horde that needs a general, I have my man. 🙂

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Buck Preparations are in full swing for Barrage 2018, 28-29 September in Havre de Grace, MD, USA….

Buck

Preparations are in full swing for Barrage 2018, 28-29 September in Havre de Grace, MD, USA. Barrage is a great little convention, which will feature upwards of 5o events over two days. No politics, no hassles. On site food at reasonable rates and dining options within a short drive. Easy parking. A broad spectrum of games. Friendly HAWKs! Many kid-friendly games.

The guys from LittleWarsTV will be there filming.

We’ll be publishing a list of vendors soon.

TWO Flames of War tournaments.

The largest ADLG tournament East of the Mississippi.

If you go to the Barrage Web site, http://www.hawks-barrage.org, you will see the currently scheduled games. The number is what we usually have seven weeks before the convention, and more are being added literally every day. If you’d like to run a game, please sign up soon.

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Combat Patrol Sea Lion Play Test for Barrage and Fall In

Buck

This Saturday we held an organizational meeting for Barrage with the HAWKs who usually participate in running the convention.  After lunch we played a fun game of Combat Patrol.  Greg and I will be running this Sea Lion game at both Barrage (28-29 September) and Fall In.  The terrain will look similar to that of our Sea Lion games at Historicon 2018.  Little Basely by the Sea is once again the scene of a German attempt to gain a foothold on British soil.

Just as the game began, the Germans are coming over the sea wall while a 35(t) comes up the narrow ramp. We placed many trucks near the waterfront to give the Germans and opportunity to steal them to help them get to the airfield.

The Germans landed in force on the beach.  This landing craft and these Germans in rubber rafts were somewhat separated from he main body.  Their goal was to disrupt the nearby airfield so that the RAF could would be hampered in its attempts to support the beaches.  The German objective was to get across the table and into the corner of the airfield represented on the table to blow up a Spitfire.  That is a long distance to cover in a four-hour game, so we placed a lot of trucks and cars near the sea wall to enable the Germans to steal them and move more rapidly.

Early in the game, the Women’s Land Army hears the alarm and runs from the fields to “fight them on the beaches.”

The British forces consisted of two squads (sections) of Home Guardsman with Boys ATRs, a 6-lb. Smith Gun, one squad of regular army British soldiers.  The locals got into the action in the form of Land Girls from the Women’s Land Army, church ladies, and some women’s auxiliary with improvised weapons.

The German forces consisted of a full platoon of German infantry, two 35(t) tanks, and a Panzer III.

I had a squad (section) of sailors who were — of course — in the Frog and Firkin pub when the shooting started.

The British thought that they also had a squad (section) of sailors, but it turns out they were Fifth Columnists.  They were actually German sailors in disguise.  I decided that their best use would be to run over to where the Home Guard had set up some AT weapons kill the crews and make it easier for the German tanks to get off the beaches.

German tanks coming up from the beach, Germans disguised as British sailors, and a civilian truck full of Germans.

The Sailors (who are really Germans in disguise) attack the Home Guard’s Boys AT Rifle to pave the way fro the German tanks.

The German players didn’t realize I was on their side and almost began to fire on my sailors.

The fight between the Fifth Columnists and the Home Guard gets ugly.

The entire squad (section) of sailors was killed by the end of the game, but I had successfully kept the ATR out of the action and even began to threaten the Smith Gun with my single survivor.

The Smith Gun takes aim — and misses bot the civilian truck full of Germans and the 35(t).

In the meantime, Duncan had advanced his 35(t)s up the ramp from the beach and was “racing” toward their objective.  One of them kept getting really poor movement distances and the other bogged down in the woods for a couple of turns.  The Smith Gun took a shot at the advancing truck full of German infantry, but it missed horribly.  Then the 35(t) rolled into sight.

The Smith Gun fires!

A scene in the middle of the game from the beach. One 35(t) is burning, but the Germans are advancing on the left. The ladies’ auxiliary is harassing the Germans on the right.

The Home Guard getting organized to fight the advancing Germans coming up from the shore.

The game was set up so that the Germans were supposed to have an easy advance until the British reinforcements were released.  Geoff’s Home Guard and Eric’s particularly aggressive Women’s Auxiliaries slowed them more than anticipated.  When Greg’s truck full of Germans got to the third table (between the town and the airfield), that was the trigger to release the troops from the airfield.  The reinforcements consisted of four Bren carriers.  While none were equipped with ATRs, this gave the British six Brens and a .30 cal. water cooled machine-gun.  The .30 cal. could disable the lightly-armored early war tanks but failed to do so.  In the last turn, the Pz. III got close enough to shell the airfield, the British machine-gun got two shots the tank but failed to cause any damage (it was a long shot anyway).  So, I called the game a German victory.

Late in the game, the advance of the Germans has triggered the release of some reinforcements from the airfield: four Bren carriers.

Eric turns his Women’s Land Army girls toward the center of the bagel, while Greg ponders his position.

It was a very fun scenario.  With one or two small tweaks, I think it will go well at Barrage and Fall In.

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Unmanned Vehicles for Sci Fi Games

Buck

Size comparison between a 1:48 scale Bren carrier and a 1:56 scale Bren carrier.

I use only 1:48 scale vehicles in my WWII games using Combat Patrol™.  I found 1:48 scale Bren carriers from Butler’s Printed Models.  Butler’s models, however, do not come with crews.  The only way to get crews that I found was to order the carriers and crews from Warlord.  (They don’t split up sets any more, apparently.)  So, I was stuck with some 1:56 carriers.  I was going to flea market them, but I thought that no one else would want Bren carriers without crews.  Then I thought that they might make interesting unmanned ground vehicles for science fiction games.  So out came the bits box…

Another size comparison.

So I found some old weapons, bits, and bobs, and began to glue these to the Bren carrier chassis.  Below you can see how they look before I will begin painting them.  The weapons are mounted with magnets so that they can be turned during a game.

One with a button as a hatch and some old GW weapons.

A rocket launcher vehicle.

After painting, I think I will blue the rocket into the launcher like it’s firing.

Two more of them. The weapon on the one on the left was the head of a robot, I believe. The one on the right is a spare GW weapon.

Another view.

A closer look.

A final look.

I will post some pictures when they are painted and ready for a game.

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Ingrid, Female Viking: Bones 2 Figure

Chris Palmer

 A couple weeks ago I started painting Ingrid, Female Viking, from the Bones 2, Heroes I set; and this week I finally finished her.   I don’t have a need for this figure, so I thought I’d just paint her up to put on eBay, and help bring a little money back into the hobby fund.
      Also, before I get into Bones painting today, I wanted to update folks on another of the projects I mentioned in last Monday’s post: the Perry plastic  War of the Roses figures.   To help add the pressure to that project, I volunteered to run a playtest with the figures at last Friday’s club meeting, and attempted to get all 40 figures done in about 6 days.  Well, I did pretty good in my goal, and got 28 of them done in time for the game!  They aren’t up to the standard you usually see here, but they are good for a tabletop standard.   So, I’m not worried now that I will have all of them ready by the end of September.

What I can accomplish working only 25-30 minutes per figure.

     Anyhow, back to Bones!
      I began working on Ingrid by prepping this figure in the usual way; soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  When dry, I glued the figure to a 1" Reaper plastic base with Gorilla Superglue. I then placed the figure in my painting grip.

        I began by giving the figure a wash with Reaper MSP “Brown Liner”; and when that was dry, I painted her armor with Ceramcoat “Black”.  When dry, I drybrushed the armor with  Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”.  I then painted her skin with Reaper MSP “Tanned Skin”.

     Next, I gave her skin a wash with Citadel “Reikland Fleshshade”.  When it was dry, I painted the fur part of her boots and her forearm guards with Americana “Bittersweet Chocolate”, and the leather parts of her armor and belts with Crafter’s Edition “Spice Brown”. I then painted the wood back of her shield with Folk Art “Teddy Bear Brown”, and her pouch with Americana “Khaki Tan”.  After that, I painted her hair with Anita’s “Burnt Sienna”.

    I then painted her helmet, dagger sheath,  and the non-furry part of her boots with Crafter’s acrylic “Cinnamon Brown”, and the horns on her hemet with Folk Art “Porcelain White”.  After that, I painted her shield and sword scabbard with Ceramcoat “Black Cherry”, and then painted all the metal bits that weren’t armor, with Americana “Zinc”.

      When everything was dry, I gave a wash to her clothes, shield, hair, and weapons; being careful to avoid her skin and armor, using Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash.   When the wash was dry, I painted her eyes and lips, and then highlighted her skin with  Reaper MSP “Tanned Highlight”.  After that, I highlighted her hair with Americana “Terra Cotta”, then Accent “Golden Oxide”, then Ceramcoat “Maple Sugar Tan”. I then painted the studs on her leather neck piece, using the “Gunmetal Grey”.  When that was dry, I gave it a little wash with some Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash to help the studs stand out.

     When the “Nuln Oil” was dry, I highlighted all the leather bits with Americana “Sable Brown”.  I then highlighted the fur part of the boots and the forearm guard fur with with Americana “Mississippi Mud”, and then highlighted her shoes, dagger sheath,  and the non metallic parts of her helmet, with Ceramcoat “Territorial Beige”. Next, I highlighted the pouch with Americana “Antique White”,and the shield with Reaper MSP Bones “Cinnamon Red”.
     I then went back and repainted all the parts I had painted with the “Zinc”, and all the little studs on her straps and shield, using the “Gunmetal Grey”.  When dry, I went back again, and highlighted all the metal, including her armor, with Ceramcoat “Metallic Silver”.  After that, I painted the circular medallion on her sword and dagger hilts with Ceramcoat “Bronze”, and then went back and highlighted them with Ceramcoat “Wedding Gold”.
     I then debated how to decorate the shield, and decided I wanted to do something feminine, to contrast with her barbarian nature.  So, I thought about what would be within my abilities to paint, and I decided on a stylized rose, as it would go well with the dark red shield I thought.  So I did a Google image search for “Rose Graphic” and got some inspiration for how to proceed.  I began by painting the petals with Crafter’s Acrylic “Tutti Frutti”, and then painted the leaves with Americana “Forest Green” .  I then went back and highlighted the petals with Crafter’s acrylic “Cherry Blossom Pink” and highlighted the leaves with Crafter’s Acrylic “Wild Green”. 
     Lastly, I painted the figure’s integral base with the “Black”.
     I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.  When the varnish was dry,  I used some white glue to glue a little sand to the base.  When this was dry, I painted the sand with the Black and, when dry,  drybrushed the base with some Americana “Zinc”, followed by Crafter’s Acrylic “Light Storm Cloud Grey”, and lastly some Americana “Dove Grey”.
     Then, another overnight dry, and I sprayed it with Testor’s Dullcote".

I’m really happy with how the figure turned out, particularly the shield.  You can find her eBay listing here: Ingrid, Female Viking 

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2018/08/ingrid-female-viking-bones-2-figure.html
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The British are Coming!

Buck

Greg and I have run a couple of Sea Lion based skirmish games using Combat Patrol™.  I really like the early war periods, like Finland 1939, Poland 1939, and France 1940.  I have recently gotten excited about Sea Lion based hypothetical scenarios.  In the Sea Lion and Fall of France games we ran at Historicon, Greg provided all the British Regulars, and I provided the Home Guard.  I wanted to flesh out our force with some additional figures.

View of the front of the Smith Gun from Warlord

The Smith Gun is quite interesting.  I had never heard of it until a year or so ago, and during our recent trip to Tank Fest, I saw one in person at the Imperial War Museum.  It is a 6-lb gun.  You rolled it into position and then tipped it up on its side.  The axel then became the traverse mechanism.  The “top” wheel provided limited overhead protection.  This was the Home Guard’s only viable anti-tank capability in 1940.

Side view of the Smith Gun

Some months ago, I purchased several packs of Warlord and Footsore Home Guard figures.  I don’t know which are from which manufacturer.

Home Guardsmen

More Home Guardsmen

Some of the Warlord and/or Footsore early war British

Another early war weapon of the Home Guard was the Northover Projector.  It fired hand grenades, rifle grenades, and special incendiary bombs to be used against tanks.

Front view of the Northover Projector

The weapon was fired using black powder and percussion cap.  The anti-tank bombs were glass bottles.  When the bottle broke (presumably near the vision ports of a German tank) the phosphorus inside the bottle burst into flame and filled the crew compartment with noxious fumes.  The weapon cost less than ten pounds to build.

Two Universal Carriers with Brens

Warlord makes nice 28mm figures but 1:56 scale vehicles.  I used 1:48 scale vehicles.  I was able to find 1:48 Bren carriers from Butler’s Printed Models, but they didn’t come with crews.  Warlord used to break up their sets as special orders, but no longer.  I had to order a set of four 1:56 Bren carriers to get the crews and some dismounts.  The 28mm figures fit nicely in the 1:48 scale vehicles.  There are additional Brens on pintles to mount on the Bren carriers, but I am waiting for some very, very small rare-earth magnets to come in the mail to mount them.  I think I will also use them to put the figures into the Bren carriers if they are thin enough.

A Universal Carrier with a Bren and one with a medium machine-gun

These are the dismounted figures that came with the set.  There are enough to make two squads / sections.

British soldiers who are part of the Bren section boxed set from Warlord

More British soldiers

Finally, I ordered a set of Boys AT Rifle crews from Crusader Miniatures.  Together, I am starting to formulate a pretty good early war British force.

Crusader Miniatures Boys AT Rifle crews

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Yorkists taking cover from Lancastrian archers with Feudal Patrol.

Yorkists taking cover from Lancastrian archers with Feudal Patrol.

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More stompy robots with Combat Patrol.

More stompy robots with Combat Patrol.

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Killed by a stompy robot.

Killed by a stompy robot.

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Stompy robots with Combat Patrol.

Stompy robots with Combat Patrol.

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