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Goblin Bodyguard: Bones 4 Figure

Chris Palmer

     This past week I took a break from painting Dark Elves and Gnomes and did the “Goblin Bodyguard” from the Bones 4 Goblin Heroes set.  I had planned to work on all three of the Goblins from the Goblins Heroes set at the same time, as kind of side project as I worked on the Darkreach figures, so I had prepped  the figures in the usual way, soaking them in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving them a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying them. I then glued them to 1" brown-primed fender washers with Aleene’s Tacky glue.  I then glued the washers onto a tongue depressor with a couple drops of Elmer’s white glue.

         I then had begun painting all their exposed skin areas with Citadel Contrast “Snakebite Leather”.  But when I was studying them after the “Snakebite Leather” application, I realized that they really weren’t similar enough to paint as a group, and so I popped them off the tongue depressor so I could work on them separately.   I reattached the bodyguard to a pill bottle with some blue tac.  After that, I painted his loin cloth with Reaper MSP “Blood Red”, his boots with Citadel Contrast “Wyldwood”,and his gauntlets with Americana “Fawn”.

          Next, I painted his belt and straps with Americana “Charcoal Grey”, and is scimitar, armor, and belt buckle with Ceramcoat “Charcoal”. I also painted his earrings with Folk Art Brushed Metal “Brushed Bronze”.   Then after everything had a chance to dry, I gave his loin cloth, belts, straps, and gauntlets all a coat of Citadel “Agrax Earthshade ” wash.

     Then, when the ash was dry, I painted his eye.  After that, since I felt his skin had come out rather splotchy from using the Contrast Paint on it, I tried blending it a bit with some Accent Golden Oxide.  I then used some Apple Barrel “Maple Sugar Tan” mixed with the “Golden Oxide”. to highlight his skin. 
         As I prepared to highlight the loin cloth, I realized I had painted part of what was supposed to be his legs as loin cloth, so I took some time to repaint his legs with the “Golden Oxide” and “Maple Sugar Tan” and blend the areas back into the body.  I then highlighted the loin cloth with a mix of the base “Blood Red” and some Reaper MSP “Golden Glow”.   After that, I highlighted his gauntlets with some of the base “Fawn” mixed with a little Americana “Bleached Sand”, and I highlighted his belt and straps with some Americana “Mississippi Mud”.  
     Next, I painted the scimitar, shoulder armor, and belt buckle with Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey” and then highlighted all of it with some Ceramcoat “Metallic Silver.  I then highlighted the hilt of the scimitar and his jewelry with Ceramcoat "Wedding Gold”.   Lastly, I painted his base with the “Mississippi Mud”.
         I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.    Then, when  the varnish was dry, I used some white glue to flock the base.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed it with Testor’s “Dullcote”.

    The Contrast paint really didn’t work well on these guys, but I’m generally happy with the outcome.  As with so many Reaper figures, the great character of the sculpt really carries the paint job a long way.

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2020/07/goblin-bodyguard-bones-4-figure.html
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A Few More Victrix Vikings Join the Morning Raid

Buck

Now, I will start on the Anglo Danes…

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Victorix Vikings

Buck

We played a long Wars of Ozz game via Zoom yesterday, but I still managed to complete some Viking figures. Greg and I bought a bag of 60 Anglo-Danes and 60 Vikings at Cold Wars 2019 and split the bags. I have completed about half of my Vikings and hope to complete the rest this week.

Vikings coming up the beach.
And they brought buddies…
A lot of them.

I am still not a fan of plastic figures, because I think the weapons are too fragile for gaming, particularly the way clods pick them up by the handful at conventions. Ideally, I would like to see plastic figures with metal weapons.

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Down the Rabbit Hole, Part III

Rob Dean

Life continues to be somewhat hectic in the midst of the pandemic.  Working from home has been more exciting than usual, as my work computer has been failing, so that everything requires more effort than it is supposed to.  Perhaps it’s for that reason that I have turned to hobbying to get away from things for a bit.  Since the last post I have had two casting sessions (finishing off venting and test casting all the early Prince August fantasy molds, catalog numbers 651 through 671), painted four buildings and some 3-D printed rock formations, finished four hills which had been in process for a while, and built three tree stands.  What I haven’t done is painted any more of the Prince August figures.

Joe Procopio recently posted pictures of work he had been doing on a Hudson and Allen castle, but he also had a freestanding tower from the old Milton Bradley/Games Workshop Battle Masters game.  I thought it looked good, and was able to find one on eBay for a reasonable price.

I have been playing around with various ideas for scenery upgrades for a while, and had ordered a package of 3-D printed cottages from an outfit on Amazon called Ender Toys.  They aren’t the most detailed buildings, but I decided I’d give them a try since they were light and inexpensive.  Also, the reviews noted that the doors were more in scale with 1/72 or old 25mm figures than with modern ranges like Reaper’s, and that’s just what I’m working with at the moment.  In the long run, I anticipate adding them to my convention scenery collection due to the light weight and durability.

Ender Toys cottages (3 of 4) with the tower and some Ender rocks

 The hills I finished were done using the same techniques I posted about back in May.

Three of these are flat-sided for use at the table edge; the last one used a scrap of plastic otherwise useless, and got the vertical stone treatment all around (signifying rough terrain) to be big enough to bother with.  Beveled edges would have left very little flat area on the top.

First tree base

Last year at Gencon I took a workshop on scenery, and resolved that I was going to trade increased storage volume for trees against reduced wear and tear on them by mounting my home scenery collection trees on group bases.  I came back with one partially constructed sample base, and finally got around this week to building some Woodland Scenics trees and mounting them to the base. I’ve also acquired some finished commercial trees of varying qualities.  Recalling the advice from Dave Frary’s book How to Build Realistic Model Railroad Scenery, I anticipated basing trees in groups of at least three, and mixing colors, sizes, and sources as much as possible.

I also recently obtained two small (30” by 22”) mousepad-type mats from Frontline Gaming, one of which is a basic grassland design.

Frontline Gaming mats (Urban mat for a different project)

I finished up the other two woods bases this morning, and loaded everything recent onto the 30” by 22” mat to see.  It’s now looking crowded enough for a skirmish game, although some walls or hedges would be nice.  I’ve got some Mantic Terrain Crate walls needing painting, and this will probably be a good excuse to get it done.  I have some 2-D roads and river sections (also in neoprene), to finish off the battlefield.

When I get back to painting figures, I want to get a few more humans done to beef up the warband represented by the five figures shown last time, and then get the double handful of orcs, goblins, and hobgoblins done so that I can stage a Song of Blades and Heroes game with all new figures and terrain.  I’m hoping that will give me a little more appreciation for what somebody new to the hobby is facing, at least a little.  Obviously I have years of practice in getting things painted quickly, and the information necessary to source things from all over the internet.  Once I’ve got that game out of my system, I’ll shift to painting something else for a while…

via The Sharp End of the Brush http://sharpbrush.blogspot.com/2020/07/down-rabbit-hole-part-iii.html
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Deep Gnome Rogue, and Deep Gnome Captain: Bones 4 Darkreach Figures

Chris Palmer

     This past week I painted the “Deep Gnome Rogue”, and “Deep Gnome Captain”, from the Bones 4 Darkreach Expansion.
    I prepped the figures in the usual way, soaking the parts in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving them a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying them. I then glued them to 7/8" black-primed fender washers with Aleene’s Tacky glue.  I then glued the washers onto a tongue depressor with a couple drops of Elmer’s white glue.

     I began by painting the skin on both of them with Americana “Sable Brown”.  I then painted the tunic on the Rogue, and shirt on the Captain with Americana “Charcoal Grey”.  After that, I painted the cape on the Rogue and the leggings on the Captain with Americana “Asphaltum”.

     Next, I painted the hood on the Rogue with Americana “Neutral Grey”, and then painted the tunic on the Captain with Crafter’a Acrylic “Orange Spice”.  I also used the “Orange Spice” to paint the leggings on the Rogue, and then painted the belt and scabbards on the Rogue with Americana “Charcoal”, and the belt and pouches on the Captain with Nicole’s “Brown”.  After that, I painted all their shoes with Accent “Real Umber”.

     I decided at that point that I didn’t like the Rogue’s leggings being orange, so I repainted them with Accent “Mustard Seed”.  I also used the “Mustard Seed” to paint the cuffs of the Captain’s tunic.  I then painted the Rogue’s gloves, and the Captain’s scabbard and dagger grip, with Reaper MSP HD “Umber Brown”.  After that, I painted all the metal bits, weapons and armor, with Americana “Zinc”.

     Next, I painted the handle of the Captain’s axe with  Americana “Light Cinnamon”, and then I painted their hair with Americana “Grey Sky”.  I then painted their armor, weapons and assorted metal parts with Folk Art  Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”. I let the figures dry for a while. and then gave their faces, and the Captain’s ears and hands, a coat of Citadel “Reikland Fleshshade” wash.  When that wash was dry, I gave their clothes a coat of Citadel “Agrax Earthshade”.  Another drying break and then I finished the washes by giving a coat of Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash to their hair, armor, and weapons.

    When all the washes were dry, I painted their eyes, and then highlighted their skin with a mix of the base “Sable Brown”, and Americana “Fawn”.  I then highlighted theRogue’s tunic and the Captain’s shirt with Folk Art “Dark Brown”, and then mixed a little Americana “Mississippi Mud” in for lighter highlights.  After that, I highlighted the Rogue’s cape with Nicole’s Brown".

     I then highlighted the Rogue’s hood with Apple Barrel “Rock Grey”, and afterwards highlighted the the Captain’s tunic with the base “Orange Spice” mixed with some Reaper MSP “Pumpkin Orange”, and then mixed with some Apple Barrel “Apple Maple Sugar” for lighter highlights. After that, I highlighted the Rogue’s leggings, and the  Cpatan’s cuffs with the base Accent “Mustard Seed” mixed with some Ceramcoat “Maple Sugar Tan”, and then highlighted their shoes with Folk Art “Teddy Bear Brown”.

     Next, I highlighted their hair with Americana “Snow White”, and then highlighted the Rogue’s scabbards and belt with Americana “Zinc”.  I then highlighted the Captain’s belt, pouches, and scabbard with Ceramcoat “Territorial Beige, followed by lighter highlights using Americana "Khaki Tan”.   After that, I highlighted their weapons armor and other metal bits with Ceramcoat “Metallic Silver”.Lastly, I painted both their  bases with Americana “Mississippi Mud”.
      I let the figures dry overnight and the next day I gave them a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish. I then used some white glue to glue some fine sand to their bases.  When the sand was dry, I painted it with a coat of Americana “Charcoal Grey”. When this was dry, I drybrushed the sand with the “Mississippi Mud”, and then with some Apple Barrel “Rock Grey”; lastly I drybrushed it with a little Americana “Dove Grey”.
      Another overnight dry, and I sprayed the figures with Testor’s Dullcote".

     I’m really happy with this pair.  To be fair, the facial sculpts come with a ton of character, so making these two look good was an easier task.

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2020/07/deep-gnome-rogue-and-deep-gnome-captain.html
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Bronze Age DBA Part 3 – The Sea Peoples

Norman Dean

Back when I started this at the beginning of the year, my intention was to build up a matched set of four DBA armies that were all mutual historical opponents. I started with the Hittites and Egyptians, moved on to the Syro-Canaanites, and now, after a couple of months of work, I am done with the fourth army – the enigmatic I/28 Sea Peoples! As with the others, these are all 20mm plastic figures – in this case, mostly a mix of Caesar Miniatures Sea Peoples and Philistines. (The chariots are a mix-and-match deal – the crew are more Sea Peoples and Philistines, the vehicles themselves are borrowed from the Hittite Chariot set, but the horses are from the Mariyannu Chariot set.)
Historically, these guys are the subject of a number of debates – who were they, where did they come from, and what was their role in the Bronze Age Collapse? Whoever they were, they show up in Egyptian wall paintings, some of which show them as being quite colorfully dressed in reds, blues, and greens. The shield designs are a bit more fanciful – some of them I painted as fairly plain leather or with simple geometric designs, but I threw in a few more representational designs as well.
The army in array
DBA offers three choices of general – a light chariot (LCh), a heavy Chariot (HCh), or solid Blade (4Bd). The blade option features a certain oversized Philistine commander who’d better look out for slingstones…
More solid Blades (4Bd) – lesser chieftains with armored retinues 
The bulk of the army is unarmored “fast” Blades (3Bd) 
Javelin-armed warriors – option of “fast” Auxilia (3Ax) or psiloi (Ps) 
The whole army again – this time from the commander’s perspective.
And from the side – I enjoyed letting loose on the shields for these guys. 
 
This army has the advantage that it can also be used pretty easily for the I/29a Early Philistine list – handy if I ever paint up an ancient Hebrew army. For now, though, I’ll probably take another break from the Bronze Age to work on some other miniatures projects.

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I Didn’t Accomplish Much Hobby Related this Week

Buck

Here are pictures of the few figures I managed to get painted. Much of the week was spent assembling, priming, and basing some Victrix Vikings.

Five more figures from the Pulp Figures “Dangerous Dames” Kickstarter.
Four more ducks from the Star Hat Miniatures Kickstarter.

Most of the beaches are open in Florida except for particularly hard-hit counties. Tom is allowed to travel up to 100 miles from Ft. Rucker, so we are going to meet him for a little beach time. It will be the first time we’ve all been together since Christmas.

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Dark Elf Queen on Throne: Bones 4 Darkreach Figure

Chris Palmer

      This past week I painted the “Dark Elf Queen on Throne” from the Bones 4 Darkreach Expansion, in my continuing effort to concentrate on working my way through that expansion.
     I prepped the figure in the usual way, soaking the parts in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving them a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying them.
    I wanted to make the queen removable so I could use the throne both as a simple terrain piece and also with the queen in place if needed.  I decided to use a pair of rare earth magnets to facilitate this.  So, to begin with, I sliced the tab where the queen is supposed to be mounted off the throne’s seat, and then drilled a hole in both the throne’s seat, and the underside of the queen to fit the magnets.  It was handy to have the site where the tab was on the throne, and the pre-existing hole in the queen, to help align the magnet placement correctly. 

     I then used Gorilla superglue gel to glue the magnets in place, being careful to get the polarity correct.

     I then stuck the queen’s magnet onto an alligator clip in preparation for painting.

   For the throne, I used the superglue gel to glue a fender washer into the recess under the seat to help provide a base that would stick to my magnetic sheet lined storage boxes.   I then glued the back piece to the throne using the superglue gel.  When dry, I glued the completed throne to the top of a pill bottle with a couple drops of Elmers white glue.

      I began by painting the queen with Ceramcoat “Black”.  When dry, I drybrushed the armor with Folk Art Color Shift “Black Flash”.   When the “Black Flash” was dry,  I went over it again with a drybrush of  “Folk Art "Pure Gold”.  After that I painted the face, legs, and hands with Reaper MSP “Dark Elf Skin”.

     I then painted her skirt with Reaper MSP “Blood Red”, and then her cape with Crafter’s Acrylic “Purple Passion”.  After that, I painted her hair with Americana “Grey Sky”.

     Next, I repainted her cape with Folk Art Color Shift “Purple Flash”, and then painted her boots with Reaper MSP “Coal Black”.  I than painted the edges of her cape with the “Black”, and then went over it again with the edges “Pure Gold”.
     After that, I let everything dry for a while, and then gave the entire figure a coat of Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash.   Then, when the wash was dry, I painted the eyes, then highlighted the face, chest, legs and hands with the base “Dark Elf Skin”, and some Reaper MSP “Dark Elf Highlight”.

     I then highlighted the skirt with the base “Blood Red” mixed with some Reaper MSP “Holly Berry”, and then further mixed in a little Crafter’s Acrylic “Daffodil Yellow” to do even lighter highlights.  I also used the “Holly Berry” and Blood Red", along with a little Americana “Snow White” to paint the gem in her crown.   After that, I mixed some of the “Purple Flash” with some  Ceramcoat “Metallic Silver” to highlight her cape.  Next, I highlighted her boots with the base “Coal Black” mixed with a little Reaper MSP “Frosty Blue”, and then I highlighted her hair with the “Snow White”.  I finished up by using some Ceramcoat “Wedding Gold” to highlight her crown, armor, and the edges of her cape.
     

     I then began work on the throne, which I decided to paint to look like black marble.  I started by painting all the stone parts with the “Black”.   When that was dry,  I used a stiff bristled brush, running my finger across it, to spatter white paint on the throne.  I let it dry some more, and then gave it a coat of the “Nuln Oil” wash.

         Next, I again used a stiff bristled brush, running my finger across it, to spatter white paint on the throne.  I also painted some thin lines to make striations.  After that, I tried to do some highlighting with the “Frosty Blue”. 
     I had deliberated on how to paint the cloth running down the seat of the throne, and had decided to try and paint it as an old ragged repurposed tapestry.  So, I looked on Google for images of tapestries, and decided on this one:

     I felt I could easily adapt it to depict a Dark Elf queen executing a prisoner.  Suitable intimidation for anyone coming before the throne…   
     So, continuing on, I painted the cloth with Americana “Antique White” to resemble an old tapestry base material. I then penciled in the design.  This was going to be quite a challenge.  Luckily, the Queen, when seated would obscure part of it. 🙂

     I then attempted to paint in the design.   I’m not a good artist when it comes to realistic painting,  particularly people, but I made my best effort to get a rough blocked in image.   my fingers were crossed that weathering would help make up for my lack of skill.

      I let the throne dry for a while, and then I gave the tapestry a coat of Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash.  I then painted the spider motif on the back of the throne behind the queen’s head, as well as the mounts the throne gems were in, with  Folk Art Brushed Metal “Brushed Bronze”.  After that, I painted the gems with Ceramcoat “Opaque Red”, and painted the crystals on the throne’s base with the “Snow White”.

     Next, I did highlights and shadows on the gems with Pathfinder MSP “Urgathoa Red” for the shadows and the “Snow White” for the highlights.    I then mixed some Citadel Technical “Spiritstone Red” and “Soulstone Blue” together to make a purple color, and used that to paint the crystals on the throne’s base; then when dry, I added highlights with the “Snow White”.  After that, I went around to all the parts I had painted with the “Brushed Bronze” and highlighted them with, first,  the “pure Gold”, and then a little of the “Wedding Gold”.
       I let the throne and queen dry overnight and the next day I gave them a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.   Another overnight dry, and I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote".   When the “Dullcote” was dry, I went back and repainted all the gems and crystals, with a little Americana “DuraClear Gloss” varnish.

     I’m very pleased with how this turned out.  It’s a little gaudy and “busy” looking, but I don’t think thats terribly out of place in a Dark Elf setting.  I think the tapestry turned out well; not great, but good enough.  All in all a pretty nice piece I think.

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2020/06/dark-elf-queen-on-throne-bones-4.html
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Stuff I Did This Weekend

Buck

Five figures from Pulp Figures’ Dangerous Dames Kickstarter.

This weekend I ran a social-distancing Wars of Ozz game to celebrate the launch of our Kickstarter. That chewed up most of Saturday between setup, executing the game, and then cleaning up. Saturday afternoon I worked off some items the honey-do list. I did have time to get some painting done, however.

Undead ducks from Star Hat Miniatures.
Two duck wizards from Star Hat Miniatures.

Some months ago, I bought some Flintstone happy meal toys in flea market form Chris Palmer. My original intent was to use them to make a miniature golf course for my town of Granville I use in my pulp games. I saw a post on the Internet of someone who had repainted these buildings to replace the ice cream colors to stone colors. Since the Winkies live in caves in the Wars of Ozz rules, I decided to repaint them to be a village in Wars of Ozz games.

Two of the five buildings. I didn’t quite cover up the bowling ball and bowling pin on the building on the left. I might still do more to find those later.
Two more buildings. I really like the one on the right.
I plan to make some kind of Winkie totem to put something in the obvious empty spot.

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Don’t Miss the Earlybird Deals on the Wars of Ozz Kickstarter

Buck

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