Tag Archives: All Bones About It

Test Goblins: Figures 59-61 of 265

Chris Palmer As I mentioned in my previous post, the “Song of Blades and Heroes” battle report; two weeks ago I finished the Spirit translucent figure quickly enough, that I was able to also paint up 3 test Goblin figures for use with my Orc warband for the SoBaH games I was playing that weekend.  The Goblins were from the Dungeon Attack set, and I chose one of each pose to begin with.  I didn’t want to paint them the same old green that has become so common for Goblins, so I consulted my old beaten-up copy of the D & D Monster Manual, and read up on Goblins.  It said that their skin color ranged from yellow, to dull orange, to brick red…nothing about green.  So, I decided to go with the middle of the range there and paint them a dull orange-ish.
   To begin with though, I prepped them in the usual way; soaking in water with a bit of dish soap added, giving a gentle scrub with an old soft toothbrush, then rinsing and drying.  Afterwards, I primed them with Krylon Camouflage Flat Black with Fusion.  I then glued them to 1″ fender washers with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then glued the washers to a tongue depressor with a coupe small dabs of Elmer’s white glue, for ease of handling during painting.

To begin, I painted all their exposed skin areas with Accent “Golden Oxide”.

Next, I painted their Tunics with Apple Barrel “Burnt Sienna”, and the padded jerkin on the archer with Accent “Mustard Seed”.  For the fur areas on the neck of the mace Goblin, and the boots of the spear Goblin, I first painted the areas with Ceramcoat “walnut” and then dry brushed with Americana “Sable Brown”.   I then painted their hats with Americana “Mississippi Mud”

I also painted the shields with Ceramcoat “Bright Red”. Then I did the backs of the shields with the “Walnut”, and then all the straps and belts with Americana “Asphaltum”.  The Quiver I painted with Accent “Real Umber” and the arrow shafts with Crafters “Spice Brown”. I painted the fletchings by dry brushing them with GW “Fortress Grey”

I then painted the handle of the mace, bow, and spear shaft with the “Spice Brown”. Lastly I painted all the metal armor, weapons parts, and buckles with Accent “Princely Pewter”.

My next step was to work on the stonework bases they were standing on.  I painted these with Duncan “Slate Grey”, and then painted the blobs of vegetation sitting on the stones with DecoArt “Forest Green”.  Lastly, I painted their teeth and th claws on their feet with Americana”Buttermilk”. When all the paint was dry,  I washed the figures completely with some watered down Winsor-Newton Peat Brown Ink.

When the ink wash dried, I added highlights to their skin and clothing by repainting some of the raised areas with the base color.  I also added some highlights to the metal parts with Ceramcoat “Metallic Pewter”, and highlighted their teeth and claws with the “Buttermilk”. Then, after everything had time to dry, I painted on a coat of Ceamcoat “Matt Varnish”.  When this had dried I flocked the bases.  Even though they were sculpted to look like dungeon floors, I wanted to use my Goblins in outdoor settings, so I flocked them to look like perhaps the Goblins were standing on parts of old ruins or an overgrown path.  After the flock had dried, I sprayed the figures with Testor’s Dullcote.

Overall, I’m pleased with how these turned out.  I think the dull orange skin really works on these figures.  Especially in contrast to their drab clothing.  And, they were nice and quick and easy to paint.

Now to work on the other 9 Goblins from the set.

Figures 59-61: Complete

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Song of Blades and Heroes: Bones Battle Report

Chris Palmer This past Saturday I went to Rob Dean’s house for a couple games of “Song and Blades and Heroes”. Rob and I decided to hold these game days using SoBaH to give us an opportunity to use our newly painted Bones figures. Like me, he bought into the first Reaper Kickstarter, and has been busy working on painting the figures from it.  He has also purchased and painted a number of Reaper’s non-Kickstarter Bones figures as well.
  Rob set up a nice looking table with some sort of ancient stone heads guarding a hilltop.  Perhaps some ancient burial ground I was guarding from treasure hunters?
     For our first game I decided to build a warband around some of my newly painted translucents.    So I decided on a force consisting of: 1 Spectre, 1 Ghost, 2 Superior Skeleton Archers, 1 Skeleton Warrior, 1 Superior Skeleton Warrior (I used the Lionman skeleton stats from the rulebook), and 1 Fire Elemental.   This gave me a group of rather mediocre troops, most having a Combat score of 2, and Qualities of 3+ and 4+.  My best weapons were the Spectre with its Terror attribute and the Fire Elemental with it’s 4+ Combat score, and short range shoot.
  Rob chose a warband of assorted Human fighters, archers and a Magic User.  He had one figure with the Leader ability in the mix, who effectively brought his warband’s Quality down to a 2+ (Lower Quality is better in SoBaH).

Team Undead: Spectre, Ghost, a pair of Superior Skeleton Archers, a Skeleton Warrior, a Superior Skeleton Warrior, and a Fire Elemental

   It didn’t help things that I badly mishandled the warband from the get go.  The Ghost proved to be useless with a Quality 4+ and a Combat of only 1.  It seldom activated, and lingered about waiting to pile on to another combat, which never happened.  I really didn’t know what to do with the Spectre  either, with it’s Combat score of 2+.  It wasn’t until halfway through the game that I realized the way I should be using it was to pin an enemy with one of my other units, and then charge it with the Spectre; thus forcing it to take a morale check (because of the Spectre’s Terror attribute) and possibly causing it to flee from combat giving the figure it was fighting a free, and lethal, hack.

Rob advances his troops. 

   The Fire Elemental I sent on a foolish flank march to get at Rob’s wizard, but the hill slowed it down to a point where it had hardly got halfway across before the rest of my force had been decimated…which is what happened.  While my Spectre and Ghost flounced around being ineffective with their Quality 4+ activations, Rob was able to efficiently start taking out my skeletons with melee attacks. When I did try to get my Spectre into combat it rolled miserably and lost the fight, falling to the ground.  At which point it was swarmed and dispatched by the enemy.  In a matter of a few turns I was reduced to below half strength, and we called it a game.

My Spectre’s big chance.  It knocks the enemy down, but subsequently has such poor activation rolls that the enemy is able to stand up and knock it down in return before it can react.

Next up, I had prepared an Orc and Goblin warband.  I was able to paint the Goblins up quick after the Spirit figure this past week, as the Spirit didn’t take that long, and I will feature them in an article on Monday. Rob reused his warband of Humans, and who could blame him after their great success in the first game.  So this time I was tasked with defended the great Orc holy stone head alter from Human interlopers.
  This will be a short report, as I must say up front, I do not think I have ever had a game go bad for me so quickly.

Team Orc: (Back row) Orc Warchief, 3 Savage Orcs, 1 Superior Orc Archer, (front row) Goblin Elite Archer, 2 Goblin Warriors, and 2 Spider Swarms (I used the centipede swarm stats from the rulebook) 

The Orcs, like my previous warband, suffered from less than average Quality of 4+. I had learned enough from Rob’s last outing with Orcs (See: Bones Battle Report ) to include a figure with the Leader attribute to effectively bring my Quality down to 3+ .
     So, on my first turn, I get about half of my stuff activated including an Orc Spearman who is pointed up as a Savage Orc.  He gets two successful activation rolls and races forward.  After my second mixed result activation, the Spearman is about a move out front, with everyone else following up at various stages.

The beginning of the end:  the Orc Spearman goes charging forth.

At this point, two of Rob’s fighters who have also been racing forward, reach him.   With their better Quality, they roll and get 3 activations each, so they still have the ability to strike the spear-wielding Orc when they get to him.  The first one knocks him down, and the second manages to inflict a Gruesome Death on the poor Spear Orc.  About 5 of my figures are in range to see this and must test morale.  Since most have hardly got two moves onto the table, when they fail their morale they are close enough that the rout carries them off the edge.  So, four end up running off the table.  This immediately reduced my strength from the 10 models I started with down to 5 remaining by the third turn.  Rob, easily enough, gets one more kill on me by plugging my archer with an arrow, which drops me below 50% strength. In the ensuing morale check, everyone else, but the swarms, run away.  

The end.  The spear Orc meets a Grusome Death as his clanmates look on in horror, possibly wetting themselves and crying like babies, before running off the table.

  So, it was not a good day for my warbands.  Rob and I discussed afterwards that we really need to figure out a way to make lower Quality and high quantity warbands work; since in the games we have played so far, the warbands that have the superior Quality always win.  I look forward to our next rematch.

To read an account of the battles from the other side of the table, visit Rob’s blog: The Sharp End of the Brush

from All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2014/01/song-of-blades-and-heroes-bones-battle.html

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Spirit: Figure 58 of 265

Chris Palmer

Having been so satisfied with my efforts on one of the green translucent figures last week, I thought I would try another this week.  So I selected the Spirit figure from the Haunts set to work on.  I’ve seen a few pictures online of this figure painted, and it always seems like folks leave the body in the translucent material, and paint the hands and head.  Just to be different, I though I would try it the other way around, painting the body, and leaving the head and hands translucent.
   To begin with, I soaked the figure in dish soap and water, and then gave it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush and rinsed it. I then glued it to a 1” black-primed fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue.  When dry, I glued the washer to a tongue depressor with a couple small dots of Elmer’s white glue for ease of handing during painting.
   I began painting by giving the head and hands/arms a wash with some GW Dark Green ink with a little water added.  When dry I painted the body and the eye sockets with black paint.

I was worried the face looked a little dark and flat, so I tried adding some light green highlights to it with Americana “Olive Green” paint. I also tried adding some very diluted black ink to the mouth to help delineate the teeth.   Next I drybrushed the body with GW “Codex Grey”.
Lastly, I added some dryrbushed highlights to the black body around the neck and sleeves, and some of the other upturned areas, using GW “Goblin Green”, with a lighter drybrush of the “Jade Green” on top, to give the appearance of a glow coming from the figure.
  I then painted the integral base of the figure with a dark brown paint to help obscure it after it was flocked.  After the figure had dried overnight, I gave it a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”.  When this was dry, I flocked the base.  Finally, I sprayed the figure with Testor’s “Dullcote”

Well, this figure has to go in the disappointment category.  The green ink wash turned out much darker than I wanted; and this fact combined with the large almond-shaped eyes and the shape of the head makes the figure look more like an alien than a spirit in my mind.  Also, there is a huge mold line running across the body that I really didn’t really notice until I drybrushed the figure, and by then it was too late. (I need to be more careful in looking for these lines before I start painting.  But they’re so hard to see on the white Bones and the Translucents)   Lastly, I think I overdid the glow effect, or maybe needed to do it in a bit more concentrated area. It appears just splotchy and not  glow-y.
     I’m not saying its a terrible figure; it’s still perfectly serviceable. It’s just not the vision I had in my mind when I started with it.

Figure 58 of 265: Complete.

Be sure to tune in Thursday, when I hope to get another SoBaH Bones battle report posted from a pair of games I had this past Saturday.

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Labella DeMornay, Banshee: Figure 57 of 265

Chris Palmer

Having completed the red translucent fire set, and getting some very pleasing results with the last two figures that I painted from that set, I decided it might be fun to start work on the green translucent ghosts set. So I picked out the Labella DeMornay figure from the Haunts set to start with.   I soaked her overnight in some water with dish soap in it, and then scrubbed the figure with an old soft toothbrush and rinsed it.  I let it dry, and then glued it to a 1” black primed fender washer with Aeleen’s Tacky glue.  I then glued the washer to a tongue depressor with a couple dros of Elmers white glue, for ease of handling while painting.

In thinking about how I wanted to paint this figure, I decided I wanted to do it as a traditional white ghost, (just like Casper 🙂 ).  I wanted to make it look like it was ‘soldifying’ out of the green vaporous trail rising from the ground.  So, to begin with I watered down some white paint to make a wash, and added a bit of dish soap to help it flow better into the creases and crevices of the figure.  I applied the wash to the whole figure, and then hung the figure upside down (see photo below), because I wanted the white wash to gather at the top of the figure and be thinner at the bottom.

After this had dried, I applied the wash a second time, but this time only to the figure from the knees up to make the white thicker and more covering on the top half of the figure;  and again I hung it upside down. to dry.

I now made a wash with Folk Art “Dapple Gray” paint by adding water and a little drop of dish soap, and applied this to the top half f the figure.  I also did some random streaks with this wash in some of the deeper crevices on the bottom half of the figure.

After the “Dapple Grey” wash dried, I went back and drybrushed the figure with white paint; heavier at the top and getting lighter as I worked my way down to the area of the figure’s knees.

When I was finshed this, I went back and filled in the figures mouth with thinned black paint. I also painted the eyes with GW “Goblin Green” and added pupils with Americana “Olive Green”. I then added a tiny white highlight pinpoint to each pupil.   Lastly, I painted the base of the figure with Ceramcoat “Walnut”,  to help hide the translucent nature of it before I flocked over it.  After the figure dried overnight, I painted the whole thing with Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”. When this dried, I flocked the bases.

Normally, at this point I would spray the figure with Testor’s Dullcote”, but because it has been so freezing cold and snowy and rainy here, I have not had an opportunity to do any spraying in the past week. So that is why you may see some sheen on the figure.  I will spray it later when I have a warm day here

I’m very pleased with how this figure has turned out.  I think the blending of the translucent to opaque turned out well, and helped to give the “look” I was going for.

Figure 57 of 265: Complete (almost!)

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Well of Chaos: Figure 56 of 265

Chris Palmer

With all that was going on this holiday week, I knew I wouldn’t  have time to paint a complicated figure, so I chose the Well of Chaos from the Dungeon Dressing set to work on.  I  began, as usual, with soaking the figure overnight in some water with a little dish soap added, and then rinsed it and let it dry.  I then glued it to a one and a quarter inch fender washer and primed it with Krylon Camouflage with Fusion Flat Black. I then glued it to a tongue depressor for ease of handling during painting.

I began by giving the fountain a heavy drybrushing with Folk Art “Dapple Gray”.

I then drybrushed a little lighter with Folk Art “Gray Green”.

Finally I added some drybrushed highlights with Folk Art “Celadon Green”.  I wanted to make the fountain look like it was working, so I decided I would add a stream of water pouring from the spout just below the face and into the pool below.  So, I snipped about an inch of a fiber optic strand, from an old Christmas light cover I have, to use as the water stream. I then took the pointy end of an old drawing compass and made a small hole in the pool base of the fountain.

I then finished some minor additions to the painting. First, I added some algae or mossy patches around the basin with Americana “Leaf Green”, then I added some water ripples in the basin by painting some stippled concentric circles with white paint around the hole I stuck in he basin’s bottom.  Finally, I painted the base with Duncan’s “Slate Gray”. When this was done and had time to dry, I painted the whole thing in  Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”; and then after it had time to dry, I sprayed it with Testors “Dullcote”.  I now glued my section of fiber optic strand into place with super glue, and lastly I painted the bottom of the basin with Cermacoat “Gloss Varnish” to help with the illusion of water.

I’m pleased with how this quick project turned out.  I will make a nice scenic detail piece.

Figure 56 of 265: Complete.

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Large Fire Elemental: Figure 55 of 265

Chris Palmer

This week I wrapped up a project that I have been working on for a while now; the Large Fire Elemental from the Fire it Up set. It also is marks my completetion of the Fire it Up set.   Ever since I saw the illuminated samples Reaper had on display at their booth at Historicon, I have been thinking about how to do this myself.  The one thing I didn’t like about the ones I saw at  Historicon was the tealight bases, which to my tastes were too tall, and in the case of the Large Fire Elemental, too small in diameter for such a big figure.

    So, since last Summer I had been thinking about a way to solve the problems I had with the look of the tealight base.  I bought a pack of cheap dollar store tealights, and began to play around them.  The first step I tried was to remove the cover from one of the tealights. This was easily accomplished with the tip of a hobby knife blade inserted in between the base and cover of the light.  This solved the height problem, but not the base size problem.  So I began to ponder ways to expand the base. At first I wanted to use a metal washer, since all my other figures are mounted on washers, but I resigned myself to the fact there was just no way I could use one that I could think of, and still have access to the switch underneath the light.  So I next look at plastic bases.  I pulled out a large 2.5 inch base I had in my bits box and got the idea of cutting out a circle in the center for the tealight base to fit into.  By clipping off the three tiny pegs that act like feet on the bottom of the tealight, the tealight base was a perfect fit for under the large plastic base.
   The figure would still not be able to sit flush with the black plastic figure base, but instead would be elevated about a quarter of an inch above it.  I felt this was an acceptable amount, and I could build up a small mound with Milliput around the tealight base for the figure to ‘sit’ on.

I now set about working on my plan.  First, I did my usual prep to the figure of soaking it overnight in some dish soap and water.   Then, I cut a rough circle in the plastic base.  I only needed it large enough for the light itself, the battery compartment, and the switch mechanism to fit through. I then drilled a hole up into the underside of the figure.  I tried to go as far up as I could without risking poking though the figure.

The next step was to glue the base of the tealight up under the black plastic figure base.  I used E-6000 glue for this.

When dry, I then glued the figure over the light, to the top of the bulb-holder/battery compartment.  You’ll notice in the photo below that I had to glue a little section of popsicle stick between the figure and the switch compartment, as without the light’s outer housing the switch is not held firmly in place, and this bit of wood, would act as a cover to the switch holder, and prevent the switch from popping out.

I as now ready to build my Milliput mound around the tealight base to hide it, but I was concerned about getting the putty into the switch and other small openings in the tealight base.  To fix this I found a small plastic lid I had, and cut it down so it made a nice little housing around the switch.  I also glued some bits of cardstock around the tealight base to cover any small openings that the Milliput might get into.

My last step of construction was to build up a mound around the tealight base using Milliput, that would look like a rise in the ground the Elemental was standing on.

I masked the figure with a bit of masking tape and newspaper, and sprayed the base with flat black spray paint.  For the figure, I used the same paint scheme that I had used on the Medium Fire Elemental last week.   I began by giving the outer edges of the figure, the base, body, and upper arms, a drybrushing with Apple Barrel “Apple Maroon”, and then just inside this, working my way towards the center, and down towards the bottom of the base, I gave it a dry brushing with GW “Blood Red”

Next I did the oranges, doing a drybrush with GW “Blazing Orange” first, again painting just inside the previous color. And then I  did a drybrush with Americana “Tangerine”

Now I moved to the yellows. I did a drybrush in the center of the body, around the bottom of the base, the face,  bottoms of the arms, and the center of the fireball hands, with GW “Golden Yellow. This was followed by a drybrushing with Apple barrel “Yellow”

 My final steps was to add heat highlights with Apple Barrel “Lemon Chiffon”  to the very bottom of the figure, the center of its “torso” , the face, and the hands.   Then I added a bit of white to the “Lemon Chiffon”” ,and did some small pinpoint highlights on the parts I mentioned above. I didn’t like the fact that this figure had no face, so I gave it some eyes by painting on two smudgy black eye shapes, and then painting inside these with the “Lemon Chiffon” with some white highlights.  I also did a mount with a “Lemon Chiffon”and white mix. When all was dry I painted the figure with Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”, and then flocked the base.  I used a bit of dried coffee around the base of the Elemental  to represent singed grass, and when the flocking was dry I gave the immediate area around her feet a light drybrushing with black to make it look like burnt grass.  Finally, I gave the figure a coat of Testor’s “Dullcote” spray paint.
The figure as it appears with the tealight turned off.

Photographed in a darkened room with the tealight turned on.

Photographed in a lit room with the tealight turned on.
Below is a short video of the figure to show you the flickering effect of the tealight.
I’m really pleased with how this figure turned out.  It was a fun project to complete, and makes a nice novelty figure on the table.
Figure 55 of 265: Complete

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Medium Fire Elemental: Figure 54 of 265

Chris Palmer

This week I painted the Medium Fire Elemental from the Fire It Up set.  I did my usual prep of soaking it overnight in water with a little dish soap added, and then rinsing and drying.  I then glued it using Aleene’s Mighty Tacky Glue  to a black-primed 1 inch fender washer. I then glued this to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of white glue.

I wanted this figure to appear as if the source of its heat was coming from its core, so I wanted it to be hottest and brightest in the center and darkest and coolest as you reached the outer edges.  To do this effect I had to think of the figure almost two dimensionally, and luckily the sculpt lends itself to that.  I began by giving the outer edges of the figure, the wings, body, and upper arms, a drybrushing with Apple Barrel “Apple Maroon”, and then just inside this, working my way towards the center, I gave it a dry brushing with GW “Blood Red”

Next I did the oranges, doing a drybrush with GW “Blazing Orange” first, again painting just inside the previous color. And then I  did a drybrush with Americana “Tangerine”

Now I moved to the yellows. I did a drybrush in the center of the body, and the wings, and the bottoms of the arms with GW “Golden Yellow. This was followed by a drybrushing with Apple barrel “Yellow”.

  My final steps was to add heat highlights with Apple Barrel “Lemon Chiffon” to her chest, stomach, the raised leg, her brow and nose.  I also put two dots of this color in her eyes to give them a focus. Then I added a bit of white to the “Lemon Chiffon”” ,and did some small pinpoint highlights on the parts I mentioned above.  When all was dry I painted the figure with Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”, and then flocked the base.  I used a bit of dried coffee around her feet  to represent singed grass, and when the flocking was dry I gave the immediate area around her feet a light drybrushing with black to make it look like burnt grass, as reader ‘adeptgamer’ suggested on my previous figure, the Hell Hound.  Finally, I gave the figure a coat of Testor’s “Dullcote” spray paint.

All in all I’m very pleased with how this figure turned out.  I think I’m finally getting the hang of doing the shading for fire on these translucent figures, (and solid figures as well).  With my first attempts I was almost afraid to cover the translucency. I also was working under the false impression of fire being darker at he base and lighter at the edges. Which is how we paint most normal figures, with lighter highlights on the outer edges.

    Next up, for my Christmas special, I will do the large fire elemental….and this one will be electrified! 🙂
A preview:

  Stay tuned…

Figure 54 of 265: Complete

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Hell Hound: Figure 53 of 265

Chris Palmer

This week I painted the Hell Hound from the 30 New Bones Set.  I began my prep as usual, soaking the figure overnight in some water with a bit of dish soap added.  I then gave it a light scrub,with an old soft toothbrush, rinsed it, and let it dry.  Afterwards, I primed it black with Krylon with Fusion Camouflage Flat Black.  When dry, I glued it with Aleene’s Mighty Tacky glue to a 1.5 inch fender washer. I then glued the washer to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of white glue for a more stable, easy to hold work surface.
  My first step was to do a little research in my old D & D Monster Manual to see what color these things were supposed to be.They are described as being rust red to red brown with glowing red eyes and black sooty mouths.    So to begin, I painted the body of the dog with Folk Art “Barnyard Red”

   I then painted the horn like protuberances on its back and neck with Americana “Buttermilk” Afterwards, I gave the whole thing a wash with Winsor Newton “Peat Brown” ink diluted with some water. When dry, I went back and drybrushed the body with the “Barn Red” again, and then added a little of the “Buttermilk” to the red and gave it a lighter drybrushing to add some light highlights. I also gave the horns some highlighting with the “Buttemilk”. I then painted the eyes with GW “Blood Red” and did light highlights on the cheeks below the eyes, and the brows above, to give the impression the eyes were glowing.

Next I started to work on the flames on the hound’s back.  I began by painting them with Apple Barrel “Lemon Chiffon”. I left a little black showing between them to give some separation and depth to them.

Next I painted them with Apple Barrel “Yellow”, leaving some of the “Lemon Chiffon” showing at the base of the flames

I now did a layer of Americana “Tangerine”, again leaving a bit of the two previous colors showing at the flames’ bases.

I followed this with a bit of GW “Blazing Orange”, at the ends of the flames.

And then some of the “Blood Red” on the very ends of the flames.

And finally, Apple Barrel “Apple Maroon” on the very tips of the flame tongues.

Finally, I painted the interior of the mouth, the teeth, and the claws with black, and then painted highlights on the teeth, tongue, and claws with GW “Shadow Grey”, followed by some smaller, lighter, highlights with Apple Barrel “Apple Scotch Blue”. I also went back and added a bit of highlighting with the “Tangerine” and “Yellow” to the horns on the back and neck of the hound, to give the impression of reflected light.  Then, after everything had had time to dry, I gave the figure a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish, and then flocked the base.  Afterwards, I sprayed it with Testor’s “Dullcote”.

I’m pleased with how this figure came out.   I enjoyed the practice doing effective flames.

Figure 53 of 265: Complete

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Spider Swarms: Figures 51 & 52 of 265

Chris Palmer

I did theses two spider swarms from the Vermin set as a quick project this week. I prepped these as usual, soaking them in water and dish soap first, then rinsing and drying.  I then primed them black with Krylon’s Camouflage Flat Black with Fusion, as I planned to paint them mostly with drybrushing

These figures are a confusing mish-mash of legs and bodies, and I didn’t really want to put the effort into figuring our which leg went with which body; so I did the whole bunch with a heavy drybrushing with GW “Shadow Grey”. I then did a lighter drybrushing with Apple Barrel “Scotch Apple Blue”.  Unfortunately I still couldn’t really see individual spiders in the mass, so I tired painting some of the apparent ‘ground’ areas inbetween all the legs, with GW “Graveyard Earth” in hopes of providing some visual separation. 

After everything had dried, I painted the figures with Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”.  I let them sit over night, and the next day I carefully flocked them, which was a challenge with all the errant legs.  Then after that had a chance to dry, I sprayed the bases with Testor’s “Dullcoat”. 

I can’t say as I’m really a fan of these pieces, as the sculpts are too jumbled in my opinion to be really effective.  But they’re done now, and that’s what counts. 🙂

Figures 51 & 52: Complete

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Orc Sniper (Archer) and Orc Hunter (Spear): Figure 49 & 50 of 265

Chris Palmer

This week I complete the last two of the orcs from the 30 New Bones set: the Orc Sniper (Archer) and the Orc Hunter (Spear). With the completion of these two figures, I reach the happy milestone of having 50 Bones completed. On to the next 50! 
    After washing them in some dish soap and letting them dry, I spray primed them with Krylon Camouflage with Fusion ”Flat Black”. When this dried, I glued the pair onto black primed 1.25 inch fender washers using Aleene’s Tacky glue.  I then glued them onto a tongue depressor, for ease of painting, using a couple drops of Elmer’s white glue.

The first step I did in painting them was to give the figures a heavy drybrushing with Ceramcoat “Metallic Pewter”.  I then drybrushed the fur garment on the Archer using  GW “Codex Grey” followed by GW “Fortress Grey”. I knew there would be a little overlap of the fur color onto the chainmail since drybrushing isn’t precise, but I did the best I could to keep the colors separate, knowing I would go back later and neaten the edges with a fine brush.

 Next I painted their Tunics: Accent “Mustard Seed” for the Archer, and Folk Art “Dapple Grey” for the Spear Orc. I did their skin with Aleene’s “Deep Khaki”.  Then, I did all he belts, wraps, straps, scabbard, and the quiver with Americana “Asphaltum”.  The boots and pouch of the Archer, and the top and bottom of the quiver, I did with Ceramcoat Walnut; with the fur tops of the boots drybrushed with Americana “Khaki Tan”.

     The spear’s shaft, and the bow I painted with Crafters Edition “Spice Brown”  I then painted the spear tip, and the metal fittings of the bow with the “Metallic Pewter”, and used the this color with a fine brush to also clean up the spots on the edges of the chainmail that got the fur or tunic paint on them. Lastly, the fletchings were given a drybrushing with the “Codex Grey”, their teeth were painted with GW “Bubonic Brown”, and the stitching on the scabbard, quiver and belt were painted Americana “Mississippi Mud”.
   After all this had dried, I gave both figures a wash with GW “Devlan Mud” wash.  When the wash had dried, I added highlights to their skin using the original “Deep Khaki” mixed with a little Aleene’s “Dusty Khaki. I also highlighted their tunics with the original colors. I then painted the eyes with  Americana “Buttermilk”, and then I went back and added a black pupil in each eye. I also highlighted their teeth with the “Bubonic Brown”.  Finally, I added some GW “Chainmail” highlights to the Orcs’ spear, armor, and chainmail.

After everything had dried overnight, I gave the figures a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish” and, when dry, flocked their bases.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed them with Testor’s “Dullcote”.

I think these fellows turned out very nicely.  I can take a break from orcs for a while now, until I get to the Orcapocalypse set.

Figures 49 and 50: Complete.

via All Bones About It http://ift.tt/1eHXmoJ

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