Author Archives: hawksgameclub

Alandin, Elf Paladin: Bones 4 Figure

Chris Palmer

   This past week I painted Alandin, Elf Paladin, from the Bones 4 Core Set Elves group.  I needed a couple more leader figures for the Elf forces I’m using for my Feudal Patrol game at Fall-In, and thought this fellow looked suitably like a commander.  I planned to paint him in the same colors I used for the rest of my Elf Army to help him blend in.
  I prepped the figure in the usual way, soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  I then glued the figure to a black-primed 1" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then placed the figure in my painting grip.

      I started by painting the figure entirely with Ceramcoat “Black”.  When the Black was dry, I drybrushed the figure with  Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”.  I then passed over it with a lighter drybrush of Citadel “Mithril Silver”.

     Next, I painted the face and hands with Crafter’s Acrylic “Flesh”, and the tunic with Americana “Wedgewood Blue”.  I then painted the cape with Crafter’s Acrylic “Tropical Blue”, and the boots, scabbards, and belt with Americana “True Blue”.  After that, I painted the shield with Reaper MSP Bones “Tropical Blue”, and the back of the shield with Crafter’s Acrylic “Navy Blue”.

     I then painted the sword and the armor on the boots with  Americana “Zinc”.  I also painted the grips of the sword and the dagger with Americana “Asphaltum”. After that, I painted the decorations on the shield and the scabbard with Americana “Grey Sky”.  I also used this color to do a simple border design on the bottom of the cape.   I also did his hair at this point with Americana “Bleached Sand”.

        Next, I let everything dry for a while, and then gave the faces and hands a coat of  Citadel “Reikland Fleshshade” wash.   When that was dry, I gave the clothing, scabbards, and shield, all a coat of Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash.  Lastly, I gave his hair a coat of Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash.

     When the washes all were dry, I painted his eyes, and then highlighted his skin with an unnamed Reaper Sample paint I have.  After that, I highlighted his hair, first with the base “Bleached Sand”, and then with some Americana “Snow White”.

     Next, I highlighted his tunic with some of the base color “Wedgewood Blue” mixed with some Crafter’s Acrylic “Dark Turquoise”.   I then highlighted the cape with some of the base Crafter’s Acrylic  “Tropical Blue” mixed with Crafter’s Acrylic “Cool Blue”. I also highlighted the shield with the Crafter’s Acrylic “Tropical Blue”.   After that, I highlighted his boots and scabbards with the Reaper MSP “Tropical Blue”, and then used the “Snow White” to highlight the decoration on the shield, the cross stitching on the scabbard, and the border decoration on the cape.  I also did some piping on the tunic with the “Snow White”. 
     I then moved on to the metallics, painting the sword and armor on the boots with the “Gunmetal Grey”, and then doing highlights with the “Mithril Silver”.   Lastly, I painted the base with Americana “Mississippi Mud”.
      I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.    Then, when  the varnish was dry, I used some white glue to flock the base.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed it with Testor’s “Dullcote”.

     I’m happy with how this turned out.  It’s just a quick figure for gaming, but I think it ended up looking pretty good.

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2019/11/alandin-elf-paladin-bones-4-figure.html
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Dark Dwarves “Striker”, “Smiter” and “Cleaver”: Bones 4 Fan Favorite Figures

Chris Palmer

      This past week I painted a pair of the Dark Dwarf “Striker”, “Smiter”, and a pair of the “Cleaver” figures, from the Bones 4 Fan Favorites Expansion.    I wanted to use these for a unit of regular Dwarves, having more gaming use for them that way than painted up as Dark Dwarves; and while they’re a little more ragged looking than the average Dwarf, I thought they’d fill the bill of a  unit of normal Dwarves just fine. Maybe hard worn veterans.  Last week I painted the first half of my unit, doing the “Irontongue Priests” and “Pounder” figures from this set.
       I prepped the figures in the usual way, soaking them in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving them a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying them.  I then glued them to 1" black-primed fender washers with Aleene’s Tacky glue.  I then glued the figures in onto tongue depressors.

      I started with the two “Striker” figures and the “Smiter”; painting them entirely with Ceramcoat “Black”.  When the Black was dry, I drybrushed the figure with  Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”.  I then passed over it with a lighter drybrush of Ceramcoat “Metallic Silver”.
      Next, I painted their tunics and shields with Reaper MSP “Fresh Blood”, and their faces and hands with Americana “Shading Flesh”.   After that, I painted the spikes on their shields with Americana “Zinc”, and then their hammers with Reaper MSP “Aged Pewter”.

      I then painted the beards and eyebrows on the first and third with Americana “Neutral Grey”, and the beard and eyebrows on the center one with some  Americana"Asphaltum".  I also painted the eyepatches with the “Black”.   Next, I let everything dry for a while, and then gave their faces and hands a coat of  Citadel “Reikland Fleshshade” wash.   When that was dry, I gave the tunics, shields, and the center beard a coat of Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash. Lastly, I gave the beards on the first and third a coat of Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash. After that, I painted the two pouches on the “Smiter” with Americana “Raw Umber” for one, and Americana “Mississippi Mud” for the other.

      I let all the washes dry,  and then I painted their eyes, and then highlighted their faces and hands with Crafter’s Acrylic “Flesh”.  After that, I highlighted the first and third’s beards with Americana “Grey Sky”, and the center one’s beard with Americana “Sable Brown”.  Next, I highlighted the tunics and shields with Reaper MSP “Holly Berry”, and the spikes on the shiled with Crafter’s Acrylic “Storm Cloud Grey”.  After that, I did spot highlights on the armor and weapons with the “Metallic Silver”. Lastly, I painted the bases with the “Mississippi Mud”.

        At this point I moved on to the two “Cleaver” figures, painting them entirely with the “Black”.  When the Black was dry, I drybrushed the figure with the “Gunmetal Grey”.  I then passed over it with a lighter drybrush of the “Metallic Silver”.

     Next, I painted their tunics and shields with Reaper MSP “Fresh Blood”, and their faces and hands with the “Shading Flesh”.   After that, I painted their pouches with Americana “Asphaltum”, thier beards with Reaper MSP Pathfinder “Urgathoa Red”, and then their hammers with the “Aged Pewter”.

       Next, I painted the spikes on the shilds with the “Zinc”.   After that, I let everything dry for a while, and then gave their faces and hands a coat of the “Reikland Fleshshade” wash.   When that was dry, I gave the tunics and the beards a coat of Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash.

  I let all the washes dry,  and then I painted their eyes, and then highlighted their faces and hands with Crafter’s Acrylic “Flesh”.  After that, I highlighted their beards with Reaper MSP HD “Rusty Red”.  Next, I did highlights on the pouches with the “Mississippi Mud”, and highlighted the tunics highlights with the “Holly Berry”.  After that, I did spot highlights on the armor and weapons with the “Metallic Silver”. Lastly, I painted the bases with “Americana "Mississippi Mud”

 I let all the figures dry overnight and the next day I gave them a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.    Then, when  the varnish was dry, I used some white glue to flock the bases.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed them with Testor’s “Dullcote”.

     I’m really happy with this unit turned out and was even lucky to be able to use them in a game last Friday!  I will be using them again in a game I’m doing at the Fall-In convention in a couple weeks.

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2019/11/dark-dwarves-striker-smiter-and-cleaver.html
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Allies Defeat Germans at Fort Devens Game Day

Mark A. Morin

On October 19th, 2019, the Fort Devens Gaming Day was held at the Fort Devens Museum.  This was our monthly gaming day as an “away” game day for the Mass Pikemen Gaming Club.  Our club sponsored two games as Scott Howland ran a pulp game in another room which was very well-received. I believe it was similar to this one.

This was my second time attending this small convention and my first time as a game master there.  For nostalgia alone, I really looked forward to the event as I was stationed at the old Fort Devens before it was closed in the 1990’s.   It has since been converted to commercial uses and some US Army Reserve functions.  Running a game here was fun.

10192019 Normandy Breakout with contact info

Mike Morgan graciously helped me set up my game in the museum among the exhibits (as you will see below)).  Thanks so much Mike!  Mike also supported Scott as a player in his game, and that was very cool.  I ran my Normandy Breakout game for What a Tanker©.  We had seven players – including several from the Mass Pikemen.  On the German side were Chris, Peter, and Steve.  On the Allied side were Leif and Walter (US), and Evan and Alex (UK).

Both sides started with 150 points/chips to use during the game.  The Allies started with a 40 points worth of vehicles.  For the UK, they bought a Dingo scout car and a Churchill “TIM” (nicknamed for theimperfectmodeler aka TIM), along with an M5 Stuart, and an M8 Greyhound for the US.  The Germans spent slightly less, choosing to buy an SdKfz 231 scout car, a StuG IIIG, and a Panzer IVH for 36 points.

1 Set up
The players prepare for battle among the museum exhibits.

The Germans took up very good ambush positions – especially the Panzer IVH, which was hull-down behind a stone wall.  The M5 Stuart successfully reconned it, and the German fired point-blank at the light tank, missing it.  The Stuart then prudently backed up behind the hedgerow.  The Churchill “TIM” then moved up the road, to be also shot at, and again missed by the Panzer IVH.  Amazingly, the Churchill immediately reversed the bad German die rolls, and miraculously hit and knocked out the Panzer IVH for its first kill ring of the day.

2 Churchill takes out Pzkw IVH
The first exchange goes badly for the Germans as the Panzer IVH missed its first two targets (the M5 Stuart and the Churchill).  The retreating M5 is at top behind the hedgerow.  The Churchill “TIM” drives past the knocked out (with crew surviving) Panzer IVH.

The Allies then successfully reconned nine possible German positions at 2 points apiece, adding to their score.  They also successfully crossed the tabletop with an M8 Greyhound, gained the points, and respawned as another M8.  The Germans spent some points and respawned the destroyed Panzer IVH crew into a Panther D which drove up next to the burning Panzer IVH.  The Churchill “TIM” went Panther hunting.

Meanwhile, the Germans tried to put an end to the Allied reconnaissance successes.  The StuG IIIG ambushed both the M5 and the Dingo gaining them crucial points, which they used to buy a Marder III.  The Allies respawned both losses with similar models.

3 StuG IIIG takes out M5, while Churchill moves around Panther
The Churchill “TIM” at top maneuvers to attack a Panther in the rear.  In the foreground, The StuG IIIG takes out the M5…  

The Allies spent some chips to respawn the Dingo as a Cromwell IV nicknamed “IRO” aka imperialrebelork.  The Germans dropped some obscuring smoke in front of the Cromwell.

4 StuG IIIG takes out Dingo, while Churchill moves around Panther
…and then the Dingo.  The Germans dropped smoke to protect the StuG from the Cromwell IV “IRO”.  The Churchill “TIM” at top hunts the Panther D.

“TIM” continued its winning ways and managed a flank shot on the Panther D.  Its good dice rolling (and the German bad dice rolling) yielded a second kill ring for “TIM”.

5 Churchill gets second kill ring against Panther
The Churchill “TIM” takes out the Panther D.

The Germans were aghast at this expensive loss and vowed revenge.  The SdKfz 231 managed to call in a rare Luftwaffe air strike on the Churchill, which destroyed “TIM” after it had been so effective.

The British mourned this loss, and respawned it as an Achilles 17-pounder nicknamed “Per”.  The British also bought another Dingo and a Cromwell IV nicknamed “JNV” or justneedsvarnish.  The US bought an M10 Wolverine.  The Germans went for broke and bought a Jagdpanther and an SdKfz 233.

The StuG IIIG went head-to-head with the Cromwell “IRO”, and took it out.  The Jagdpanther caught the Achilles “Per” in the open and made short work of it.  In the meantime, the Allies successfully crossed a Dingo and an M8 Greyhound.  This resulted in denying the Germans any end of game bonus points for preventing more than two Allied vehicles crossing the table.

To make matters worse for the Germans, the respawned M5 Stuart knocked out a well-hidden Marder III with some help from a supporting infantry assault (see how I use bonus attack cards here) and well-placed 37mm rounds.  As the game was winding down, and it was clear the Allies had a commanding edge in the score, The Germans bought a Tiger I and converged all vehicles on the plucky M5.

6 Marder III taken out and other Germans seek vengeance
The Marder III burns, and the Tiger I and SdKfz 233 hunt the M5 Stuart… 
7 Stuart will not die
…and are joined by the Jagdpanther!
8 Traffic jam
This traffic jam at game’s end yielded no damage on the M5 Stuart – the dice had completely deserted the Germans.

At games end, the final score was Allies 193, Germans 142.  This game yet again delivered a different result.  Player choices, and player luck all made this game fun and unique.

This is my 12th post about my development and running of this scenario and the models that went into making it.  I started back in May 2019, so it’s been a lot of work, but one project that I really am proud of now.

I wanted to honor the history and the struggle of the Allies in the days after the D-Day landing 75 years ago.  I will continue to run the game, and at this point I really only need to add a StuG IV to be really complete vehicle-wise (and I have one to build!).  To read about previous games and related posts, see the following:

Thanks to the Fort Devens Museum, Peter Lowitt. and the guys at Fencing Frog Gaming Adventures for running the event.  I hope to see you next year, if not sooner.  I also hope that some of the players join us at The Mass Pikemen Gaming Club.

I hope you enjoyed this post and would love to read your feedback!

 

 

 

 

from Mark A. Morin https://markamorin.com/2019/11/04/allies-defeat-germans-at-fort-devens-game-day/
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My Barrage 2019 Recap

Mark A. Morin

The wonderful Barrage wargaming convention was held back on September 27-28 in Havre de Grace, Maryland.  It is run by the Harford Area Weekly Kriegspielers (HAWKS), and I have attended the last few years and run a few games there as well as a GM.  This year marked the 25th Anniversary of the convention.

The trip was enjoyable – and even though it’s been over a month since the event – I wanted to share some of the pics and details of the event from my perspective.  It’s not an all-encompassing review – but hopefully it will give you a flavor of the event and some nice views of some worthwhile and visually interesting tabletop games.

29 My badges

1 Old GradsThree only slightly aging West Pointers – Dave Wood (’84), me (’84), and Buck Surdu (’85).  Dave and Buck are in the HAWKS and going to the convention doubles as a mini-reunion for us.  Plus I get to see how much better in shape they are than I am.

I drove down from Massachusetts and arrived Thursday night (the night before the convention) to help the HAWKS set up.  As a bonus, we got to play a few turns of Eric Schlegel’s Antietam: The Cornfield game using the A Union So Tested rules set.  It was a fun start.

The convention started in earnest on Friday – and I got a chance to check out some amazing tabletops.  Bill Molyneaux had a brilliant Boxer Rebellion game that had incredible terrain.  I did not get to play this game, but would have loved to try it.

I walked around Friday’s game and took some pics of a few games I loved seeing (but did not get to play) before I got into playing a Feudal Patrol™ game.  Here you can see a Napoleonic game (run by Dave Wood), a Gundam game, and a really neat G.A.S.L.I.G.H.T.  Sherlock Holmes themed game (run by Sam Fuson).   There was a Flames of War Tournament.  I have not played that game despite having (as regular readers know) a TON of FoW models.  The games looked a bit crowded figure-wise – and maybe that’s normal for that game.  Note the US TIE fighter (the gamer said he did not have a proper US plane so he painted this model)…not sure about that particular add personally.

I really wanted to try another game of Feudal Patrol™.  I had played one at HUZZAH! run by Duncan Adams earlier this year.  Feudal Patrol™ is a novel skirmish game (yet unpublished) and is similar to Combat Patrol™ – except it is for pike and shot periods and earlier.  I am hoping to write an Aztec supplement for it for Buck.

Chris Palmer ran a War of the Roses scenario involving securing an abandoned supply train of three wagons.   It was just the two of us, but as Buck came available, he joined in on Chris’ side.  I started off well, but in due course I got my ass handed to me by Buck and Chris!  Still, I was glad to try it and I feel confident that this will be another great system by Buck.

16 Feudal PatrolNot the greatest sign up!  Too bad as it was fun.

17 Feudal Patrol

18 Feudal PatrolMy forces, with the enemy Yorkists across the table.  The abandoned wagon train (the objective) is in the center.19 Feudal PatrolThe Lancastrians.20 Feudal PatrolWagon train objective.20a Feudal PatrolBuck confers with Chris (off-camera) as the two forces cavalry converge.20b Feudal PatrolChris moves his Yorkists up and takes two wagons.20c Feudal PatrolI moved a leader on top of the remaining wagon to seize it.  Unfortunately, the Yorkist crossbowmen ended that effort by turning him into a pin cushion, and pinning his subordinates in the process.

20d Feudal Patrol

After this game, I walked around and took some more shots of some cool tables.  There was a 54mm scale ACW game, and a 54mm medieval mayhem game.  Greg Priebe had a Poland 1940 Combat Patrol™  game for replete with an armored train.  Lastly, there was an Aliens-inspired scratch built table that was impressive.  These shots are below.

28 ACW2Another ACW game, in larger scale.

The last game that I played on Friday was with Dave Wood and another player.  It recreated the scenario made famous by the events portrayed in the movie Black Hawk Down.  The rules were Force on Force, which had an interesting set of mechanics, but very complicated for a short game.  We actually ran the game twice, with Dave and I as the Americans.  All agreed that the scenario was impossible to win for the US.  Still, the GM Carl Olsen made the experience enjoyable.

26aa Blackhawk down

26 Blackhawk downThe tabletop for the scenario.27 Blackhawk downEven with air support, the mission was too difficult for the US.

That finished off Friday.  Saturday presented an opportunity to play the massive Combat Patrol™ Star Wars Battle of Hoth scenario (from The Empire Strikes Back) of the Battle of Hoth that Buck and Greg Priebe ran at Historicon.  It was pure eye-candy (as you’ll see below), and a blast to play.  We had a full table of 10-12 players.  The Combat Patrol™ Star Wars supplement was used – and was easily picked up by the players who were new.  Buck and Greg did an outstanding job of running this massive game.

I played with several other players on the Imperial side with the goal of destroying the Millennium Falcon before it could fly out of the cave it was hiding in with the other rebel ships.  We succeeded in eventually knocking out the shield generator with an AT-AT.  Subsequently the Millennium Falcon was destroyed when our forces could get a clear shot.  A strategic victory was had for the Empire!

32 Buck Surdu and Greg Priebe Battle of HothScenario designers and GM’s Buck Surdu and Greg Priebe30 Battle of HothA view from the attacking Imperial forces side – the rebels and their spacecraft were in the cave on the far side.  The shield generator is on the far right.  The rebel trenches and positions were beautiful.  All the models were so fun.31 Battle of HothImperial set up before the game.32 Battle of HothRebel spaceships getting positioned in cave.  The Millennium Falcon was not yet set up on the top corner.33 Battle of Hoth SpeedersImperial speeders storm anti-vehicle weapons positions.34 Battle of Hoth Inf carriersA bloody affair.35 Battle of HothThe advance continues.36 Battle of HothA very unique set of walker positions.37 Battle of Hoth Shield Generator blowsBye bye shield generator!

After the victory, I had some time before I needed to set up and run my Normandy Breakout scenario for What a Tanker© that I have previously run a few times.  I took a few more shots of some interesting games.  One of these was a Dungeon Crawl run by a gentleman (sorry as I forgot his name) who makes his own miniatures out of small bits of wood and paints them really well – check them out below.

After this, it was on to setting up and running my Normandy Breakout game.  I have really gotten this game to be a great gaming experience – based on both my opinion and consistent feedback from the players.  This time, I had between 9 and 11 different players as some came and went.

The Germans made some very good decisions on terrain use and vehicle selection.  The Allies did not choose enough reconnaissance vehicles, and were less effective using terrain as a whole.  The Allies did not do a good job at crossing the table – with only a M10 Wolverine (by Dave Wood) and an M5 Stuart (by Buck Surdu) crossing the board.  To be fair, the dice abandoned the Allies at a few critical junctures.

The Germans chose expensive vehicles, such as the Panther D (Greg Priebe), Jadgpanther (Andrew) and Tiger II (run by a woman known as April or “Queen Tiger” in the game), but used them effectively to stop the Allies.   This put them in a points disadvantage, that they made up with their kills.  Don Hogge’s used his SdKfz 233 very well to delay and harass the Allies.  The Germans lost no vehicles, and the Allies lost a total of 5: a Dingo scout car, an M3A1 Stuart, an M10 Wolverine, and two 17-pounder Achilles.  The Allies vehicle choices hurt them (not enough tanks and reconnaissance versus tank destroyers). This had not happened in previous runs, and is a testament to the German players having a good plan.  The final score was 160-123 in favor of the Germans.  I will continue to run this game – it has never been the same twice.

00 Chris Palmer pic of my gameI GM the mid game action (photo by Chris Palmer)41 Normandy Breakout What a TankerPlayers on the Allied side get ready to play.42 Normandy Breakout What a TankerHere the Americans smashed an M3A1 Stuart through a hedgerow – where it discovered a Panther D.  It took the flank shot and managed to do some temporary and permanent damage.43 Normandy Breakout What a TankerThe Panther then turned and knocked the Stuart out – the black smoke indicates that the crew lived and bailed out, but the tank was destroyed.44 Normandy Breakout What a TankerWith a burning Dingo behind him, a Jagdpanther confronts the Achilles “Tabitha” (named after my granddaughter).  German artillery-delivered smoke dissipates in the top of this photo.46 Normandy Breakout What a TankerThe poor Achilles “Tabitha” is no match for the Jagdpanther, and is brewed up on the next activation.45 Normandy Breakout What a TankerAn American M10 Wolverine gets a rear shot on the Greg Priebe’s damaged Panther, but not enough damage is inflicted… 47 Normandy Breakout What a Tanker…and on the next activation, the Panther turned and knocked out the Wolverine.

After picking up, the last game I played in was a Roman Circus Chariot game with rules by DeWitt.  My chariot flipped and I lost – but it was fun!

And the flea market was outstanding!

Thanks to the HAWKS for a great weekend!

And thanks to you, dear reader, for looking – feel free to share your thoughts in the comments section!

 

 

 

from Mark A. Morin https://markamorin.com/2019/11/03/my-barrage-2019-recap/
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Reaper “Bones 5” Kickstarter in its Final Days!

Chris Palmer

   Just wanted to give everyone a heads up that Reaper Miniatures’ Bones 5 Kickstarter is in it’s final few days, and will be ending this Saturday the 2nd!
   There’s been a lot of great stuff unlocked and still more to come.
   The big highlight of this project so far has been the almost yard-long Pirate Ship that Reaper will be doing.   The plan is to have it come apart at the deck levels so you will have several decks worth of playable surface.

   One of the expansions I’m most excited for is this Dark Depths one.  Lots of cool critters in it, and some great fodder for making units, which as primarily a wargamer, I’m always looking for.

(Click to see larger)

    You can check these figures and a lot more out at the Kickstarter main page: Bones 5: Pizza Dungeon!

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Dark Dwarves “Irontongue Priest” and “Pounder”: Bones 4 Fan Favorite Figures

Chris Palmer

     This past week I painted a pair of the Dark Dwarf “Irontongue Priest” figures , and a trio of the “Pounder” figures, from the Bones 4 Fan Favorites Expansion.    I wanted to use these for a unit of regular Dwarves, having more gaming use for them that way than painted up as Dark Dwarves; and while they’re a little more ragged looking than the average Dwarf, I thought they’d fill the bill of a  unit of normal Dwarves just fine.
     I got a set of 5 of these Dark Dwarves with the Bones 4 Kickstarter, then was lucky enough to pick up 4 more in a trade; then luckily, the free October Bones Black figure from Reaper turned out to be the Dark Dwarf “Pounder” figure, supplying me with the 10th one I would need to make a unit. 
          I planned to use the two “Irontongue Priests” as the command figures for my unit; so I kept one the way it was originally sculpted to be the main leader. For the other, I trimmed down the wings on the helmet, and cut the spike out of the other hand.  I then cut his pointer finger free and bent it out to make him look like he was pointing.
       Next, I prepped the figures in the usual way, soaking them in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving them a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying them.  I then glued them to 1" black-primed fender washers with Aleene’s Tacky glue.  I then glued the figures in onto tongue depressors.

     I started with the two “Irontongue Priest” figures that I would be using as my command figures, painting them entirely with Ceramcoat “Black”.  When the Black was dry, I drybrushed the figure with  Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”.  I then passed over it with a lighter drybrush of Ceramcoat “Metallic Silver”

     Next, I drybrushed the capes on them both; the one with the spike I used Folk Art “Brushed Metal "Brushed Bronze”, and the other I used Ceramcoat “Copper”.  I also used the “Brushed Bronze to paint the helmet wings on the one holding the spike.  After that, I painted their hammers and the spike with Reaper MSP "Aged Pewter”.

     I then painted their faces and hands with Americana “Shading Flesh, and did the beard on the lefthand one with the "Black”, and the beard on the righthand one with Americana “Light Cinnamon”.   Next, I let everything dry for a while, and then gave their faces and hands a coat of Citadel “Reikland Fleshshade” wash.   When that was dry, I gave the beard on the righthand one a coat of Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash.

      I let all the washes dry, and then did spot highlights on the armor and weapons with the “Metallic Silver”.  I also drybrushed the cape on the lefthand one using some Ceramcoat “14K Gold”.  Next, I highlighted their faces and hands with Crafter’s Acrylic “Flesh”; and after that highlighted the lefthand one’s beard with Crafter’s Acrylic “Cloudy Shy”, and the righthand one’s beard with Americana “Sable Brown”.  Lastly, I painted the bases with “Americana "Mississippi Mud”.

     I set the two Priests/Leaders aside, and began on the trio of “Pounders”; painting them entirely with the “Black”.  When the Black was dry, I drybrushed the figure with the “Gunmetal Grey”.  I then passed over it with a lighter drybrush of the “Metallic Silver”

    Next, I painted their tunics with Reaper MSP “Fresh Blood”, and their faces and hands with the “Shading Flesh”.   After that, I painted their pouches with Americana “Raw Umber”, and then their hammers with the “Aged Pewter”.

     I then painted the beards and eyebrows on the left two with Crafter’s Acrylic “Orange Spice”, and the beard and eyebrows on the righthand one with some “Light Cinnamon”.    Next, I let everything dry for a while, and then gave their faces and hands a coat of  the “Reikland Fleshshade” wash.   When that was dry, I gave the tunics and the beards a coat of Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash.

  I let all the washes dry,  and then I painted thier eyes, and then highlighted their faces and hands with Crafter’s Acrylic “Flesh”.  After that, I highlighted the lefthand pair’s beard with Crafter’s Acrylic “Pure Pumpkin”, and the righthand one’s beard with Americana “Sable Brown”.  Next, I did highlights on the pouches with the “Light Cinnamon”, and highlighted the tunics highlights with Reaper MSp “Holly Berry”.  After that, I did spot highlights on the armor and weapons with the “Metallic Silver”. Lastly, I painted the bases with “Americana "Mississippi Mud”.
  I let all the figures dry overnight and the next day I gave them a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.    Then, when  the varnish was dry, I used some white glue to flock the bases.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed them with Testor’s “Dullcote”.

     I’m happy with them.  They’re simple, but I think they’ll make a fine gaming unit.  Now I’ve got the other five figures of the unit to paint for next week.

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2019/10/dark-dwarves-irontongue-priest-and.html
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Painting: 1/72 fantasy individuals

Rob Dean

Posting time has been a bit limited this week…in the previous post were pictures of the figures I finished up on Columbus Day.  Last Friday was not a scheduled work day, so I was able to sit down and do something with paintbrushes.  Most of the time, I find that trying to ignore the Muses doesn’t come to a good end.  So, having finished a nagging project in 1/72 scale, I found that I was inspired to paint a few more figures just for fun.  Here are two Caesar adventurers, two Caesar 13th century knights, and a Reaper Bones “saproling” done up as a 1/72 tree-thing.  Attempting to freehand the lion’s head on the central figure was a bit chancy, and the shield on the other knight was pre-embossed, so more practice on 1/72 heraldry will be coming up.
With this additional handful of figures, I feel like it’s time to play some sort of single-figure game with them. 1/72s are about at the limit of the practical for individual figure games, in my opinion. My basing system should probably have been designed to put a little more weight into the bases, to encourage the figures to stand through minor table bumps and so forth.  I am looking over Rangers of Shadow Deep as a possible near-term game, but haven’t done an order of battle to ensure that I have most of the miniatures needed yet.

via The Sharp End of the Brush http://sharpbrush.blogspot.com/2019/10/painting-172-fantasy-individuals.html
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New Old Glory “Wars of Ozz” Figures

Chris Palmer   Old Glory is going to be releasing a new line of figures with accompanying rules early next year called “Wars for Ozz”; They are based heavily on the original L. Frank Baum books, but with their own unique twist.  I was lucky enough to be part of the rules development team, and had a chance to get my hands on some of the figures to paint before their general release.
     These are a couple of the Allied units, which can be added to the forces of any of the four major factions in the game: Munchkins, Quadlings, Winkies, and Gullikins.

   The first is a unit of Skeleton warriors.

  And the second is a unit of fierce. Pumpkinmen

     I was really impressed with these excellent figures.  They have a lot of character and were a joy to paint!

via One More Gaming Project http://onemoregamingproject.blogspot.com/2019/10/new-old-glory-wars-of-ozz-figures.html
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Village Mob Woman: Bones 4 Figure

Chris Palmer

     This past week I painted the Village Mob Woman from the Bones 4 Core Set Townsfolk group.
     I prepped the figure in the usual way, soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  I then glued the figure to a black-primed 1" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then placed the figure in my painting grip.
  I forgot to take a starting picture, so here’s the illustration from the Kickstarter page.

     I began by painting her head and arms with Reaper MSP “Rosy Skin”, and her dress with Accent “Golden Harvest”.  I then painted her apron and bonnet with Crafter’s Acrylic “Storm Cloud Grey”, and her corset with Ceramcoat “Black”.

     Next, I painted the rolling pin with Americana “Light Cinnamon”, the torch with Americana Mississippi Mud" , and her hair with Americana “Asphaltum”.   When everything had had a while to dry, I gave her face and arms a coat of Citadel “Reikland Fleshshade” wash.  When that was dry, I gave her apron a coat of Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash; and when that was dry, I gave her rolling pin and torch a coat of Citadel “Agrax Earthsahde wash.  I also applied some Agrax Earthshade” directly into the folds of her dress, but didn’t give it an all-over wash.

     When all of the washes were dry, I painted her eyes, and then highlighted her skin with Reaper MSP “Rosy Highlight”.  Next, I highlighted her dress with, first, Americana “Moon Yellow”,and then Apple Barrel “Lemon Chiffon”.

     Next, I highlighted the apron and cap with, first, Americana “Grey Sky”, and then Americana “Snow White”.  I then highlighted the corset with Americana “Charcoal”, and then a little of the “Charcoal” mixed with some “Grey Sky”.  After that, I highlighted the rolling pin with Americana “Sable Brown”, and the torch with Americana “Khaki Tan”.    I wrapped things up by painting the flame, working from the bottom of the flame to the top using, the “Lemon Chiffon” first, then Crafter’s Acrylic “Bright Yellow”, followed by Crafter’s Acrylic “Pure Pumpkin”, and then Reaper MSP “Blood Red”.   Lastly, I painted the entire base with the"Mississippi Mud".
      I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish. I then used some white glue to glue some fine sand to the base.  When the sand was dry, I painted it with a coat of Americana “Raw Umber”. When this was dry, I drybrushed the sand with Ceramcoat “Territorial Beige”, and then with some Folk Art “Butter Pecan”; lastly I drybrushed it with a little of the “Bleached Sand”.
      Another overnight dry, and I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote".

     A fun and simple little figure.  I’m happy with how she turned out.

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2019/10/village-mob-woman-bones-4-figure.html
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Stuff I Did This Weekend

Buck

This was an unusually hobby-filled weekend. Friday night was HAWKs club night. I hosted another play test of the Wars of Ozz rules for Old Glory on Saturday. On Sunday, I painted some figures that have been staring at me on the painting table for a while.

This is a shot of the game Friday night. Wars of Ozz will be a “big battle” game, with regiments of 20 figures plus a mounted leader. For these play tests we have been using ersatz figures, because the figures are not in production yet.

I have been working on a set of rules, called Wars of Ozz, for Old Glory to go along with a new line of figures. Both rules and figures should be in full production and for sale by March 2020. Friday night was the first test outside the small group that has been involved while the project was secret. Now that Russ has posted some news about the project on TMP, I can talk about it a little.

Another view of the table.

Saturday we held another play test of the rules with a smaller group. I am working on just a few things to get the Reaction Test chart correct. Then I have to work a little on the named generals and wizards. I am hoping to have it done by Christmas.

After we finished the Wars of Ozz game, we broke out gladiators for an hour or hacking and slashing.
The crowd cheers!
Greg’s gladiatrix bites the dust.
The second game pitted Greg and Chris against a rhino, hippo, and lion. The animals won.

On Sunday I had a chance to paint these Imperial Assault figures that have been sitting on my painting table, mocking me, for months.

The crew from the Phantom in Star Wars Rebels along with Asoka Tank.

from Buck’s Blog http://bucksurdu.com/blog/?p=9205
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