Monthly Archives: December 2019

Bergamot, Halfling Scout: Bones 4 Dreadmere Figure

Chris Palmer

    This past week I painted Bergamot, Halfling Scout, from the Bones 4 Dreadmere Expansion.
    I prepped the figure in the usual way, soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  I then glued the figure to a black-primed 1" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then placed the figure in my painting grip.
    I began by painting his face and feet with Reaper MSP “Rosy Flesh” before I realized I hadn’t taken a beginning “blank canvas” photo.

      I then painted his pants Accent “Real Umber”, and his shirt with Apple Barrel “Lemon Chiffon”.  I wasn’t sure about the pleats in his pants and whether they were supposed to be armor…they looked like armor, but I thought it odd for him to just be wearing leg armor. For the time being I painted them like some sort of fancy pants. 🙂  I also painted his vest with Pathfinder MSP “Urgathoa Red”

      Next, I painted his cape with Ceramcoat “Territorial Beige”, and his hair (head and feet) with Americana “Asphaltum”.  After that, I painted his sword belt with Americana “Light Cinnamon”, and his gauntlet with Americana “Faun”.

      I then painted the scabbard with Americana “Cranberry Wine”, and the metal fittings on it and the belt with Americana “Zinc”.   After that, I painted the lamp with Accent “Golden Oxide”, and the grip on the sword with Americana “Raw Umber”.

     Next, I pained the metal parts of the sword and belt with Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”, and the lamp and vest buttons with Folk Art “Brushed Metal "Brushed Bronze”. I let the paint dry for a while, and then I began with the washes.  First I applied a coat of Citadel “Reikland Feleshade” wash to the face and feet.  When that was dry, I applied Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” to the rest of the figure.
     When all the washes were dry, I began work on the face, painting the eyes and then highlighting all the skin with Reaper MSP “Rosy Highlight”.  After that I highlighted the hair with Americana “Sable Brown”, and then a little of the “Faun”.

     I then highlighted his cape using first Folk Art “Butter Pecan”, and then mixing in a little Americana “Bleached Sand” in to the “"Butter Pecan”.  I then used the “Bleached Sand” to highlight his gauntlet.  After that, I highlighted his shirt with the base “Lemon Chiffon”, and I highlighted his vest and the scabbard with some Americana “Burgundy Wine”, mixd with a hint of Crafter’s Acrylic “Tutti Frutti”.

     Next, I highlighted his pants with some Nicole’s “Brown”, and his belt with the “Sable Brown”.  I then I turned to the lamp.   I first painted the openings with Reaper MSP “Clear Yellow”, then placed an area of the “Lemon Chiffon” in each opening followed by a dot of Americana “Snow White”.   I then worked on the metals, highlighting the frame of the lamp, and his vest buttons with Ceramcoat “Wedding Gold”; and afterwards, highlighting the sword fittings and leg armor with Citadel “Mithril Silver”.  Lastly, I painted the base with Americana “Mississippi Mud”.
      I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.    Then, when  the varnish was dry, I used some white glue to flock the base.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed it with Testor’s “Dullcote”. 

     I’m very happy with how this fellow turned out. He’s a great little figure and full of character.

via All Bones About It
from Tumblr

French FCM 36 tanks

Mark A. Morin

During the Battle of France (May-June 1940), there was an amazing variety of vehicles on both the German and the French sides.  At this same time last year, I began putting together a collection of period 15mm/1:100 scale vehicles for this period.  These were discussed here.  I have previously posted about a couple of games (December 2018 and January 2019) that I ran using the What a Tanker


rules from the UK’s Too Fat Lardies.  I have been hoping to return to this period and add more vehicles to both armies.  I am starting this augmentation by adding 3 FCM 36 light tanks to my fleet.

The FCM stands for Société Nouvelle des Forges et Chantiers de la Méditerranée, a shipbuilder in Toulon who manufactured this 1936 design – and delivered about 100 to the French Army up through 1938.  Cost and industrial manufacturing concerns limited further purchases.  They were a little more than 12 tons, with a crew of two.  The armor was fairly good – welded, and very sloped for tanks of the day.  It also had a diesel engine and reasonable range unlike many other contemporary French tanks.  However, like many other French tanks, it was armed with the weak Puteaux SA 18 37mm gun which definitely had challenges fighting German armor.  Notably, two battalions of FCM 36’s tried to repel the bridgehead that the Heinz Guderian had established across the Meuse, but they were too little and too late.  After the surrender of France, some of the FCM 36 chassis were converted to Marder I’s or self-propelled artillery.  Some of these conversions were involved in the Normandy Campaign of 1944.  Today, only one FCM 36 survives at Saumur.

I thought these would be a good addition to my French early-war tank collection.  In What a Tanker


, these are the cheapest tanks to buy point-wise.  The only source I found for these models was Old Glory.  They are metal, and quite small of course.

1 FCM 36 in package
The 3 FCM 36’s in the baggie.
2 FCM 36 before filing
I did need to do a bit of filing and cleanup of extraneous molding material and molding lines as you see here.  Yes, these are small!
3 FCM 36 before filing showing turrets pins
The turrets had a small molded pin for mounting on the molded hole on the chassis.  I needed to slightly elevate the turret or the underlying paint on the chassis would be worn off, even with a good varnishing.  I decided to drill out the pins and the holes with a 1/8″ drill bit.  I then used green stuff to fill in underneath the hollow chassis between the tracks and provide a “floor” for the magnets.  The magnets were put in place with Gorilla Glue in the chassis and the turrets.
4 FCM 36 after priming and base coat
You can see here my hodge-podge mounting scheme of the FCM 36’s for painting.  I used a 1/4″ square dowel and poster tack to mount the chassis for painting.  I primed these, and the used a German green-brown as a base coat.  This shot here is after the first camouflage color (blue green) was applied with my Iwata Micron airbrush.  Also, I only put the turrets on a tank when I am painting camouflage patterns.
5 FCM 36 after priming and base coat and more camo
Next, I applied the third color (brown) to the camouflage pattern.
6 Turrets after decal but before varnish
When I paint turrets, I find this helpful (as the magnets in the turrets hold the turrets to the magnets on the washers).  Also, I can easily apply the decals this way, and airbrush on the final two coats of matte varnish.

Lastly, I thought I’d share some group and individual shots and a bit about their debut on the tabletop the day after they were completed.

12 FCM top view
Top view showing the sloped octagonal turrets.


7 FCM 36 left sides
Left side of the FCM 36’s.
8 FCM 36 frontal armor view
Frontal view.

I used a blue diamond, a red heart, and a red club as decals which would also help identify these as different individual tanks on the tabletop.  From my research, FCM’s did not seem to have as many markings historically as other French tanks.

As stated above, these made their game debut this weekend at the December session of the Mass Pikemen Gaming Club.

13 First FCM 36 roll
My buddy Mike Morgan was on the French side, and chose the blue diamond FCM 36 as his tank.  He then rolled a perfect roll of 6 sixes!  The odds on that were 0.01286%!
14 FCM 36 Blue Diamond moves onto the board
Mike’s FCM 36 moves on the road.
15 FCM 36 Blue Diamond duels with a StuGA
His FCM 36 was stalked by a StuG A (player Chris), which kept missing it.
16 FCM 36 Blue Diamond duels with a StuGA, misses
Mike successfully maneuvered his tank to the German’s side, and shot point blank.  The dice deserted him as the StuG A took only minor damage.
17 FCM 36 Blue Diamond duels with two StuGA, who miss it
Smelling an easy kill, the Germans (Chris’s teammate Christine) brought up a second StuG A in the hunt.  It also missed the FCM 36.  Note – as there were only 15 StuG A’s in the German invasion force across France, this would have been highly unlikely!
18 Now the Panzer IIIE joins the fight
Then the Germans brought up even more to the hunt with a Panzer IIIE…
19 Panzer IIIE brews up FCM 36
And Mike’s plucky FCM 36’s luck finally wore out with the Panzer IIIE (Christine) knocking it out.

On the other side of the table, Mike’s teammate Tom managed to kill Christine’s Panzer 38(t) with a SOMUA S-35.  Mike got another FCM 36, and that was killed by Christine’s teammate Chris’s StuG A (in the shot below on the left).  Mike replaced his lost tank with an R35.  Tom drove his SOMUA around the building but frustratingly could not take a point-blank shot at the Panzer IIIE (as his dice roll failed him).  Mike had to leave, and my wife Lynn (no gamer just watching) took over the R35.  Lynn drove the tank to the side of Christine’s Panzer IIIE, and rolled three critical hits – and Christine failed to block any.  This knocked out the Panzer IIIE!

20 R35 avenges the FCM 36 after SOMUA misses
Lynn’s R35 avenges the burning FCM 36 (on right) by knocking out the Panzer IIIE.
21 Lynn is happy
Happy wife, happy life!  Tom and Lynn are all smiles here.
22 SOMUA is hit in rear by StuG A
In a final act, Christine maneuvered her remaining StuG A for a rear shot on Tom’s SOMUA S-35.  She successfully knocked out the SOMUA.

That ended the game, with the French winning a very narrow victory 32-31.  If Lynn had not rolled so well in killing the Panzer IIIE, the Germans would have won.  Thanks to the players for a great and fun game!

I have plans for more French and German tanks for this scenario.  I hope that you enjoyed this post, and feel free to share your thoughts and feedback with me in the comments section!  I have been behind on my blogging efforts and hope that I can share more with you soon!  Thanks for taking a look!

Also, as these were mostly done in November, I would add them as my contribution to Azazel’s MechaNovember painting challenge!


  1. 1/8″ neodymium magnets
  2. Green stuff (kneadatite)
  3. Gorilla Glue
  4. Poster tack and ¼” square wooden dowels on plastic plates
  5. Vallejo “Surface Primer – Black”
  6. Vallejo “Flow Improver”
  7. Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
  8. Vallejo Model Air “German Green Brown”
  9. Vallejo Mecha Color “Green Blue”
  10. Vallejo Mecha Color “Brown”
  11. Battlefront “Black”
  12. Battlefront “Dark Gunmetal”
  13. Vallejo Model Air “Wood”
  14. Vallejo Mecha Weathering “Dark Rust” (wash)
  15. Army Painter “Light Tone” (shade)
  16. Vallejo Model Air “Satin” (varnish)
  17. Microscale Micro-Set
  18. Microscale Micro-Sol
  19. Microscale Liquid Decal Film
  20. Appropriate decals from Battlefront
  21. Citadel “Typhus Corrosion”
  22. Citadel “Ryza Rust”
  23. Army Painter “Strong Tone” (shade)
  24. Vallejo “Light Sienna” (pigment)
  25. Vallejo “Light Slate Grey” (pigment)
  26. Vallejo “Pigment Binder” (pigment)
  27. Vallejo Weathering Effects “European Splash Mud”
  28. Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matt Varnish”

from Mark A. Morin
from Tumblr

Stone Giant Champion: Bones 4 Lost Valley Figure

Chris Palmer

 This past week I painted the Stone Giant Champion from the Bones 4 Lost Valley Expansion.  Readers may remember that I had painted the Stone Giant Guard back in September, and for this one I figured for the most part I’d just copy how I had done that one.

I had forgotten to take a picture of the figure before I started, so here’s a shot of the model from one of the Kickstarter updates.

     I prepped the figure in the usual way, soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.   Then, after trimming the figure’s integral base a little, I glued the figure to a black-primed 2" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then used some Elmer’s glue to glue it to the top of a pill bottle. I used some green stuff epoxy putty to help blend the trimmed integral base to the washer.
     Then, shortly after beginning, I realized that the buttons on her dress looked faceted, like they were meant to be gemstones; so I decided rather than try and paint them as such, I was going to try and replace them with actual craft gems.  So they got sliced off with a hobby knife.

     The first painting I did was to paint his skin, using an equal mix of part Crafters Acrylic “Storm Cloud Grey” and Folk Art “Milkshake”.  I then painted her dress with Citadel “The Fang”, and then did the handle of her rock-pick looking weapon with Americana “Light Cinnamon”.

          Next, I painted her shoes, belts and straps with Americana “Charcoal Grey”, and then I painted the strings holding the object to her right calf, and holding the skull on her left hip, using Ceramcoat “Territorial Beige”.  I then painted the two bands on her upper arms and her necklace with Accent “Golden Harvest”, and the two wrist bands with Accent “Mustard Seed”. After that, I painted he two rune stones hanging from her belts with Americana “Burgundy Wine”, painted the basket at her hip with Reaper MSP “Golden Brown”, and painted the skull with Folk Art “Butter Pecan”. I moved on to painting the sheath of the dagger on her right thigh with Americana “Asphaltum”, and the grip with the “Mustard Seed”; followed with painting the icon(?) on her calf with Reaper MSP HD “Rich Indigo”.

     I then painted all the metal bits with Americana “Zinc”, and I painted the inside of the mouth with Americana “Shading Flesh”.  I felt at first glance it looked like her tongue was extended, so I painted it that way with the “Shading Flesh”.  I put the figure aside to dry for a while, then when I came back I gave the entire thing a coat of Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash. 

       When the wash was dry, I painted the eyes, and then highlighted the skin with some of the base “Milkshake” mixed with the “Storm Cloud Grey”, and added a bit of the lighter Americana “Dove Grey” for the lighter highlights.

     Next, I highlighted her dress, using the base “The Fang” mixed with Folk Art “Cloudy Day”. After that, I highlighted all her belts and straps using the base “Charcoal Grey” mixed with some Americana “Mississippi Mud”, and I highlighted the basket at her hip using Ceramcoat “Maple Sugar Tan”.

     I then highlighted the skull, first with Americana “Antique White”, and then Crafter’s Acrylic “Light Antique White”.   Next, I highlighted the icon strapped to her calf using a bit of the “Rich Indigo” mixed with some Americana “Snow White”.  I did the dagger then, highlighting the sheath with the “Territorial Beige”, and the grip with some of the “Maple Sugar Tan” mixed with the base “Mustard Seed”.  I also used this mix to highlight the wrist bands.  After that, I worked on the icons hanging from her belts, highlighting them with the base “Burgundy Wine” mixed with some of the “Snow White”.   I then highlighted the handle of her rock-pick using Americana “Sable Brown”
      Now it was time for the metallics.  I painted the arm bands and necklace with Folk Art “Brushed Metal "Brushed Bronze”, and when dry, I went over them doing highlights with Ceramcoat “Wedding Gold”.  I then painted the head of the rock-pick, the buckles and all the various studs, with Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”, and when dry, highlighted everything with Citadel “Mithril Silver”. Lastly, I painted the base with Americana “Mississippi Mud”.
      I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.    Then, when  the varnish was dry, I used some white glue to flock the base.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed it with Testor’s “Dullcote”.  When the “Dullcote” was dry, I used Gorilla Supeglue to affix a trio of tiny nail gems to the studs on her dress.

     In general I’m pretty happy with her.  I don’t like the way her eyes came out, but you get to a point after messing around with them for an extended period of time that you just have to concede defeat and move on.  😛

via All Bones About It
from Tumblr

Reaper’s Evil Toys Painted

Chris Palmer     This past week I painted up Reaper’s pack of “Evil Toys” to use as treasure tokens for December’s Ghost Archipelago game-slash-Christmas party.  The scenario will be The Island of Misfit Toys, and the players will be trying to gather as many of the toys to “save” them from the island and its evil ruler King Moonracer.

L to R: Evil Rubber Duck, Evil Teddy Bear, Evil Jack-in-the-Box, Evil Cymbal Monkey, My Little Evil Pony, and Slinky Hell Hound. 

      I also painted, to add to the mix, the headless gingerbread-man from Reaper’s “Familiars Pack VI”

via One More Gaming Project
from Tumblr

First Unit of Blue Moon Munchkins: Colonel Hardsole’s Regiment


I have been collaborating with Old Glory to produce a set of rules, The Wars of Ozz, to go along with the beautiful new line of figures that will be hitting the market in the Spring. Most of the testing has been with ersatz figures, but recently I received some pre-production figures of four Munchkin regiments. This one if Colonel Hardsole’s Regiment. I am afraid my painting doesn’t really do justice to these beautiful figures.

The front of Colonel Hardsole’s Regiment in green coats with yellow facings.
A closer look at the regiment.

All infantry regiments in Wars of Ozz are mounted in five bases with four figures each. Shooting and melee are conducted by base, but damage is assessed by individual figures. There is also a mounted commander for many regiments, not pictured here.

Three more regiments, partially completed, on the painting table.

These figures are fun to paint. The rules are coming along nicely and will be released (hopefully) at Cold Wars or soon afterward. In any event, I and those to whom I have subjected months of play testing, will be running Wars of Ozz games at Cold Wars.

from Buck’s Blog
from Tumblr

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