Monthly Archives: July 2019

First Game of “A Gentleman’s War”, Using Imagi-Nation Armies

Chris Palmer I got to play my first game of “A Gentleman’s War” (AGW), by Howard Whitehouse and Danial Foley, this past Saturday under the GMing/tutelage of fellow HAWK Rob Dean; with his son Norman Dean as my opponent.  We used forces drawn from our homecast 40mm 18th Century Imagi-nation armies, normally used with the classic Charge! rules; my North Polenburgers, vs Norman’s Wachovians.  We used the random force generation from AGW, which, when rolled up, looked to us to be some sort of pursuit scenario of Whachovians trying to overtake a retreating North Polenburg army, and being met by a North Polenburg delaying force.
     Wachovia had a flying column consisting of: 3 Light Cavalry units, 2 Light Infantry units, and 3 Line Infantry units; while my North Polenburg army had: 3 Line Infantry units, 2 Field Artillery batteries, a Light Cavalry unit, and a Light Infantry unit. So after a brief scenario discussion, we ruled Norman’s army needed to exit 4 of his 8 starting units off my table edge, and I had to prevent this with my 8 defending units. It was an exciting battle with the fortunes seesawing back and forth and the outcome undecided until the last turn.

North Polenburg Initial Deployment

     We both sketched out our opening deployment on paper, and then set up our troops as per what we had drawn.  This allowed us to set up simultaneously, though we were locked in our deployment without having any idea of how the enemy was deploying.
     I set up symmetrically with my Line Infantry brigade in the center to block the road, with a Light Infantry Unit and Artillery Battery on each flank; figuring the maneuverability of the Lights, combined with the long range of the cannon, could help deter any attempt to sweep around my flanks. I deployed my Light Cavalry in the center, behind my Line Infantry, where I hoped it would be in position to catch anything that got by the Light Infantry and Artillery.  I had hoped to push forward quickly to give myself more room to delay them farther from where they hd to exit.  This did not happen.

Wachovia Initial Deployment

      Norman set up somewhat similarly, with his Line Infantry straddling the road, with a Light Infantry unit on each side.  He brigaded his Light Cavalry together, and set them up just below a low hill on his right.  It was clear his plan was to punch a hole through my left flank with the mass of cavalry at his disposal.

The brigaded Wachovian Light Cavalry come thundering over the hill towards my Light Infantry and Artillery on my left.

      Things started off ominously for North Polenburg, as Norman’s Wachvoian’s got the 5 first Activation Cards, allowing his cavalry to come storming over the hill, and smash into my Light Infantry holding the left flank.  My lights repulsed the first unit, leaving both units bloodied and the Cavalry falling back on the field in disorder, but the second fresh unit of enemy cavalry swept them from the field.  This left my Artillery extremely vulnerable.  Luckily, the charge of the third unit of enemy cavalry fell less than an inch short of my cannon, allowing me to let fly with a round of canister at point plank.  While it didn’t have as big an effect as I wanted, it did disorder the horsemen.

A swirling battle develops and I turn my left Line Unit to help secure my flank. before my Artillery is overwhelmed. 

      Quickly, I was able to swing around my leftmost Line Infantry unit to face the enemy cavalry and protect my line; but it was an inevitable fate for my guns.  The remaining enemy Light Cavalry swarmed over them.   My Light Cavalry now also moved to protect the flank, as the enemy cavalry found itself all disordered and spread over the field.

Overview of the table about midway through the battle.

      My infantry shot a few rounds at the closed unit of enemy Light Cavalry as my Light Cavalry charged another.  The Wachovian horsemen countercharged and we met over the silent cannon of my battery.  In a fortunate turn of fate, I not only caused a number of casualties on the enemy, but the attached General with them was mortally wounded.

Cavalry vs Cavalry over the silent guns, and the enemy General falls.

      Meanwhile, on my other flank, my Light Infantry unit and Artillery battery had, from the beginning of the battle, been pushing forward while conducting long range harassing fire.  They had finally worked their way onto the flank of the enemy and were close enough that they were becoming a serious threat.  The Wachovian Light Infantry finally felt the need to come forward and discourage me rather than sit as a potential threat in the safety of a nearby woods, and my Lights found themselves split between fending off their enemy counterparts on a low hill forming the enemy right flank, and  sniping at the enemy Line Infantry in a nearby field.

Action on my right flank as I get dangerously close to their line, and their Light Infantry come forward from the security of their woods.

      With my left in an uneasy state  and the remnants of three enemy cavalry still on the field, the Wachovians seized the opportunity and were able to push a unit of their cavalry off my table edge, achieving their first victory point.  However, with a bit of luck, I was able to stabilize my left flank enough, to drive off the remaining two enemy cavalry units using my own horsemen and fire from the Line Infantry unit I had turned to face them.
     However, the distraction of dealing with my collapsing flank had allowed the other unit of the enemy Light Infantry, and their brigaded Line Infantry to get very close to my Line Infantry; the Lights pouring fire in the turned flank of my leftmost Infantry unit, and the brigaded enemy infantry firing at my infantry with a numerical advantage.

I prepare to drive off the last of their Cavalry, as their Lights rush forward on their right to stabilize their line.

       At that point a disaster happened on my right flank, as an effective volley from the enemy Light Infantry on the hill caused my lights to fail morale and fall back.  Their path carried them directly into my artillery, effectively blocking its fire.    The enemy Lights then seized thier opportunity, and raced passed my disorganized troops towards my table edge.  My guns were only just able turn in time to issue one round of ineffective fire, before the enemy Lights made the table edge, and were off.   A second victory point achieved for Wachovia.

Disaster hits, as my Lights fall back off the hill into my battery. Everybody’s disordered.

      The end came quickly after that.  I was able to drive off the enemy lights on my left, with an effective charge; but the charge took my infantry unit well past the enemy line, and they were never able to get effectively back into action.  This left only two of my Line Infantry, and the remnants of my Light Cavalry, to hold the enemy line of three Regular Infantry units.  While my remaining Artillery and Light infantry were able to issue a few ineffective shots, their pursuit of the fleeing enemy Lights on my right had taken them far enough away from the center that they were’t able to play an effective part again.
      With masterful use of the Hold cards, a well timed charge,  and good fire and morale results, the enemy was able to one by one eliminate my two blocking infantry units.  This left them with enough firepower to brush my cavalry aside, and evade my remaining light infantry and artillery; escaping off the table for the 2 remaining victory points and thus winning the game.

The end, as my Cavalry tries to futilely hold the road.

     While the game started off with some bad luck with the activation deck for my North Polenburg forces, things soon swayed in the other direction; and the fortunes of war swayed back and forth throughout.  While initially the enemy felt confident following his destruction of my left, things soon turned my way with the reestablishment of my left and the advance of my cannon and Lights into close range on his right.  It looked like I would be able to overwhelm him with firepower.  Then, with the breaking of my Light infantry on my right, and them falling back into my artillery, things seemed to sway back towards the enemy.   The battle then came down to the desperate fight in the road, and in the end, I think my inexperience with the rules, lost me the day.
     Nonetheless, I had a great time and look forward to having another crack at these fun rules. They really have a great old school feel to them and seem the perfect thing for Imagi-nations and big “toy soldiers”.

via One More Gaming Project http://onemoregamingproject.blogspot.com/2019/07/first-game-of-gentlemans-war-using.html
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Fruella, Dreadmere Mercenary: Bones 4 Dreadmere Figure

Chris Palmer

    This past week I painted the Fruella, Dreadmere Mercenary, figure from the Bones 4 Dreadmere Expansion set. 
     I prepped the figure in the usual way, soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  I then glued the figure to a black-primed 1" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and when dry, glued the washer to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of Elmer’s glue.

     I  began by painting her face with Reaper MSP “Tanned Skin”.  I then panted her shirt with Folk Art “Butter Pecan”, and her under skirt with Reaper MSP “Holly Wreath”.  After that, I painted her outer skirt with Folk Art “Poppy Seed”, and the bit of armor in the opening of her skirt with Americana “Terra Cotta”.

     Next, I painted her boots with Americana “Charcoal Grey”, and her coat with Apple Barrel “Apple Black Green”. After that, I painted her gloves with Americana “Fawn”, and the fur on her collar and boot-tops with Americana “Asphaltum”.

     I then painted the axe handle with Americana “Light Cinnamon”, andd the axe head with Americana “Zinc”.  I followed up by painting the wrapping on he axe with Accent “Mustard Seed”, and using some Reaper MSP HD “Umber Brown” to paint her belts, pouch, and scabbard.

     I let everything dry for a while, and then I gave her face a coat with Citadel “Reikland Fleshshade” wash.  When it was dry, I gave the rest of a coat of Citadel “Agrax Earthsdahde” wash.  When all the washes were good and dry, I painted her hair with Ceramcoat “Black”.    I then did her eyes, and then highlighted her face with Reaper MSP “Tanned Highlight”, and Reaper MSP “Rosy Highlight”.

     Next, I did the highlights in her hair using Americana “Grey Sky” and then moved to her blouse, highlighting that with a mix of the base “Butter Pecan”, and some Americana “Bleached Sand”.  After that, I highlighted the armor piece hanging down between her skirt using Accent “Golden Oxide”, and highlighted the underskirt using Crafter’s Acrylic “Holiday Green”.

    I then highlighted the outer skirt using a mix of the base “Poppy Seed” and some Folk Art “Gray Green”; and then highlighted the coat with some of the base “Apple Black Green” mixed with some Folk Art “Hunter Green”, and then the “Hunter Green” mixed with a little Apple Barrel “Apple Christmas Green”.  After that, I did the fur trim on the coat and the boots with some Ceramcoat “Territorial Beige”, and then a little of the lighter Americana “Khaki Tan”. Next was the gauntlets, and I highlighted them with some of the base “Fawn” mixed with Americana “Buttermilk”, then I highlighted her bag with some Americana “Sable Brown”, and I did the axe handle with some of the “Fawn” mixed with the base “Light Cinnamon”.
  At this point I painted the axe head with some Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”, and then highlighted it with Ceramcoat “Metallic Silver”.  I also used the “Metallic Silver” to paint the belt buckle. Lastly, I painted the entire base with “Americana "Mississippi Mud”.
       I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.    Then, when  the varnish was dry, I used some white glue to flock the base.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed it with Testor’s “Dullcote”.

   Another good tabletop mini.  Nothing fancy with this one.  Though what’s in the bag?! 😀

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2019/07/fruella-dreadmere-mercenary-bones-4.html
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Experimental Sci-Fi Chemical Plant Scratch-build Project

Mark A. Morin

Sometimes you need to try new materials, new techniques, and change up your hobby projects to keep fresh.  My tabletop battlefield for my Attack of the Warbots game scenario (using the Combat Patrol

™

rules system) needed some more ruined industrial terrain.  I also wanted to try some new painting techniques with chipping medium, as well as using some crackle paint.  The goal was to make something ruined, rusty, with some degree of verticality that would complement my tabletop.

As far as building materials, I had been saving different bits and pieces of this and that for a few years in anticipation of scratch-building something to meet that need.  I say saving, my wife says hoarding – (it’s not hoarding if the stuff is organized, labelled, and put away out of sight in drawers dear

😁

).  A previous employer had supplied us with kits that contained dummy vials (empty) that we could use to teach the process of reconstitution of the real thing.  At one point years ago, because the FDA drug labeling had changed, and the packaging that the kits had on them was no longer valid, we were ordered to throw them away.  I did, but threw the vials into a drawer.  I also had some oddly-shaped caps from body sprays, and a purloined cover from my wife’s blow dryer.  To be fair, the cover no longer stayed attached, so that was fair game.  I also had bits of polystyrene sheets and tubes, and leftover foam rubber pads (packing material) from something I no longer remember.  So basically, I had a lot of trash to work with.

As the community painting challenge (run by Azazel) that I participate in for July was “The Jewel of July ’19 Community Painting Challenge”, I thought I’d switch up from doing tanks and make a scenery piece.  The scenery qualifications were:

“It’s for the more impressive scenery pieces. A desert oasis or a (ruined?) temple or a bunker complex or a single bunker or a skyscraper or a Ferratonic Incinerator or a Kwik-E-Mart. A forest worth of trees or a jungle worth of plants.”

So, dear reader, you can be the judge of this project as a “jewel”, or not.  It will have some good points and some not – I hope that if you have some feedback (good, bad, or otherwise) that you share it so that I and others can learn.

Construction and Planning

I assembled the assorted junk, and made a plan.  The glass vials I decided would work well glued together top-to-top as chemical tanks.  I had two vials that were plastic that I scuffed up, and I removed any paper labeling from all of them.  The blow dryer screen would be the centerpiece.  Using a leftover piece of polystyrene sheet (Evergreen #9060 – .06″ thick), I plotted out a chemical plant symmetrically.  I made two elevated concrete pads for the shorter vials with thinner polystyrene (Evergreen #9020 – 0.02″ thick) and the foam pads, and Plastruct Bondene.  For the vials, my epoxy of choice was E6000, though that did leave a lot of glue strings to clean up later.  The tubing was Evergreen 3/16″ #226, complemented by cut plastic straws.  Applying E6000 to the strws made them relatively solid.  I used green stuff as the piping joints.  The plan for the vials was to sequentially prime, apply rust paints, apply chipping medium, apply metallic paints, chip, and rust.  The bases were to be done using AK crackle paints, with washing and dry brushing.

0 hair dryer
The missing cover came from here.
1 Sci Fi plant scratch build unpainted
The assembled terrain piece, unpainted.
2 Sci Fi plant scratch build unpainted
A side view of the unpainted piece.  The smaller vials were plastic and held old normal saline.  All were ordered to be discarded.  This is how I did that.

Painting

I airbrush primed the piece with Vallejo Black primer, allowing 24 hours to dry.  Then I airbrushed it with Vallejo Model Air “Rust” (#71.080).

3 Sci Fi plant scratch build primed and base coated with rust
Airbrushed with a rust base.

I then applied a liberal coat of Citadel “Ryza Rust” and a different Vallejo “Rust” (#71.069) that I hoped would show a nice rust effect under the final color coats.  Then, I applied Vallejo “Chipping Medium” over the rust.  I was very unsure of the amount to use here, or the pressure with which apply it with the air brush.  Add to that the dry time, which I gave 24 hours – too much?  I don’t know.  Due to the terrain piece’s layout, it was also hard to get into all the areas with the chipping medium.


I then chose the final metallic colors for the vials, the pipes, the caps, and the screen. Those, and the other materials, you can see listed at the end of this post.  I applied a caot of gloss black to the base to assist later “crackling”.

6 Sci Fi plant scratch build after painting base gloss black and vials with colors
After applying the colors onto the vials.

At this point, I applied water with a stiff toothbrush to the vials, and that was supposed to cause the chipping.  It did some places, but not everywhere.  I had to resort to a toothpick in a lot of places, and that pulled ALL of the paint off.  As repair, I used Citadel “Typhus Corrosion” trying to simulate rusted leaking tanks.  I washed the vials with a light rust wash, and that turned the purple tanks pink/orange!  I went back to the Typhus corrosion and tried to compensate.

7 Sci Fi plant scratch build after chipping
After the chipping work.
8 Sci Fi plant scratch build after chipping inside after dried
After the chipping work – I tried to make it look pretty contaminated and old.

Then, I needed to add the two different crackle paints, along with washes and highlights.  Before that, I applied a gloss varnish to help the crackling effect and to help protect the chipping effects.  I knew I could use a matte varnish later to dull it up.

9 Sci Fi plant scratch build after crackle paint, drying in sun
Crackle paints drying in sun on the base.  Glossy vials…for now anyways.
10 Sci Fi plant scratch build after crackle paint dried with glossy varnish
After the crackle paint got a glossy wash.
11 Sci Fi plant scratch build after crackle paint washed with Nuln Oil Gloss
Close up – definitely need to remove the gloss.  But first, some dry brushing of the crackle paint was in order.
12 Sci Fi plant scratch build after crackle paint dry brushed
I sequentially dry brushed, washed, dry brushed, and washed the piece.

Finally, I airbrushed the piece with Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matt Varnish”.  As I had foam rubber part of the piece, I needed to avoid any use of rattle cans to prevent a real chemical meltdown!

14 Sci Fi plant scratch build after matt varnish drying, top view
Using the heat of my driveway to dry the piece.
15 Sci Fi plant scratch build after matt varnish drying, side view
Complete and drying in the 90 degree sun.
15 Sci Fi plant scratch build complete on mat
On the gaming mat.
16 Sci Fi plant scratch build complete on mat, center close up
Close up of the crackling effect and the screen.
17 Sci Fi plant scratch build complete on mat, side close up
Corroded tanks.
18 Sci Fi plant scratch build complete on mat, side close up
Corroded tanks, opposite side.
19 Sci Fi plant scratch build complete on mat, end close up
The smaller tank and its pad.

20 Sci Fi plant scratch build complete on mat close up

21 Sci Fi plant scratch build complete on mat, Space Roos moving through
Space Roos reconnoiter in the plant.
21 Sci Fi plant scratch build complete on mat, Space Roos see Martians
Space Roos are surprised by Martians in the plant.
22 Sci Fi plant scratch build complete
Well, at least it is done.

So, do I have a “Jewel of July” here.  Maybe at least a garnet anyways.  I think this is OK for the tabletop, given that it was basically made of trash.  It hits the game tabletop today!

If you want to see a real “Jewel” – check out Alex’s piece here.  THAT is impressive!

Back to my project, I was somewhat disappointed at the Vallejo “Chipping Medium”.  I could not find much information on its use, and a lot of that was negative.  The AK crackle paints are very good in my opinion, and I will look to see if they have a chipping product.

Any feedback – especially any thoughts on my process and the product – is always appreciated.  As always, hope you enjoyed this post.

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE USED ON THIS PROJECT:

  1. Discarded dummy vials
  2. Hair dryer screen
  3. Body wash bottle cap
  4. Fragrance bottle cap
  5. Foam rubber packing pads
  6. Evergreen #9060 polystyrene sheet
  7. Evergreen #9020 polystyrene sheet
  8. Evergreen 3/16″ polystyrene tubes
  9. E6000 epoxy
  10. Plastruct Bondene
  11. Green stuff
  12. Vallejo “Flow Improver”
  13. Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
  14. Vallejo “Surface Primer – Black”
  15. Vallejo Model Air “Rust” (71.080)
  16. Vallejo Model Air “Rust” (71.069)
  17. Vallejo Model Air “Signal Red”
  18. Vallejo Mecha Color “Metallic Blue”
  19. Vallejo Mecha Color “Metallic Green”
  20. Vallejo Mecha Color “Purple”
  21. Vallejo Model Air “Med. Gunship Grey”
  22. Armory “Gloss Black” (used this 1996 paint up!)
  23. Citadel “Ryza Rust”
  24. Citadel “Typhus Corrosion”
  25. Vallejo “Chipping Medium”
  26. Vallejo Mecha Weathering “Light Rust Wash”
  27. Vallejo Mecha Weathering “Rust Texture”
  28. Americana “Black Tie” (satin)
  29. AK “Light and Dry Crackle Paint”
  30. AK “Dark and Dry Crackle Paint”
  31. Citadel “Nuln Oil Gloss” (wash)
  32. Citadel “Skrag Brown”
  33. Testors “Universal Acrylic Thinner”
  34. Vallejo “Gloss Varnish”
  35. Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matt Varnish

 

 

 

from Mark A. Morin https://markamorin.com/2019/07/27/experimental-sci-fi-chemical-plant-scratch-build-project/
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Updated Barrage Recruiting Posters for 2019

Buck

I have updated the Barrage recruiting posters.  Everyone should feel free to repost any or all of them as widely as possible.

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Townsfolk, Sage: Bones 4 Figure

Chris Palmer

     This past week I also painted the Sage from the Bones 4 Core Townsfolk II set.
     I prepped the figure in the usual way, soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  I then glued the figure to a black-primed 1" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then placed the figure in my painting grip.

    I began by painting his robes in Americana “Fawn”, and then painting his face and hands with Reaper MSP “Rosy Skin”.  After that, I painted his hood and cape with Americana “Light Cinnamon”.

     Next, I painted the stripe going up the front of the robes with Americana “True Blue”, and his belt with Folk Art “Dark Brown”.  I then painted the bag tied on to his belt with Reaper MSP HD “Umber Brown”, and the pouch hanging from the belt with Reaper MSP HD “Golden Brown”.  After that, I painted his quill with Crafter’s Acrylic “Storm Cloud Grey”, and his shoes with Folk Art “Real Brown”.

     I then painted his scrolls, some with Americana “Antique White”, and some with Americana “Bleached Sand”, and I painted his glasses with Accent “Mustard Seed”.    Then, after the figure had a while to dry, I gave his face and hands a coat of Citadel “Reikland Fleshshade” wash.   When the wash was dry, I then gave the rest of the figure a coat of Citadel Agrax Earthsahde" wash.

     When the washes were dry, I painted his eyes (A real challenge under the hood and  behind the glasses!)  I then shaded and highlighted his skin using various mixes of the base “Rosy Skin” along with “Rosy Shadow” and Rosy Highlight".  I next painted his glassed with Ceramcoat “14K Gold”, then filled where the lenses would be with some of the “Rosy Shadow”, and then added highlights with Americana “Snow White”.  I then highlighted the blue stripe on his robes using the base “True Blue” mixed with a little Ceramcoat “Denim Blue”, and afterwards highlighted the robes themselves with a mix of the base “Fawn” mixed with some of the “Bleached Sand”.

     Next, I highlighted his cape and hood with the base “Light Cinnamon”, and some Americana “Sable Brown”, and I highlighted his belt with  Folk Art “Teddy Bear Brown”.   I then highlighted his shoes with Reaper MSP “Turkey Brown”, and the pouch on his belt with the “Mustard Seed”.  After that, I highlighted the scrolls with the “Bleached Sand”, and Crafter’s Acrylic “Light Antique White”, and I highlighted the feather with the “Snow White”.
    When I was done painting the figure, I used some white glue to glue some fine sand to the base.  When the sand was dry, I painted it with a coat of Americana “Raw Umber”. When this was dry, I drybrushed the sand with Ceramcoat “Territorial Beige”, and then with some Folk Art “Butter Pecan”; lastly I drybrushed it with a little of the “Bleached Sand”.
      I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed it with Testor’s Dullcote".

         Another townsperson done; many more to go!  The eyes under a hood, and behind glasses, were a real challenge!

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2019/07/townsfolk-sage-bones-4-figure.html
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Barrage 2019 Web Site is Now Live

Buck

Barrage 2019 will be 27-28 September in Havre de Grace, Maryland.

Don’t miss this outstanding regional convention.

The Web site for Barrage 2019 has gone live, and it is open for registration for GMs and Attendees.  Come back to the Web site frequently to see the growing list of games that will be run this year.

www.hawks-barrage.org

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The BARRAGE ’19 Website is Open for Registration!

Chris Palmer     Just an update to let everyone know that the BARRAGE ‘19 website is open for registration!   BARRAGE is being held September 27-28 in Havre de Grace, Maryland.
    Gamemasters get you games in, as the grid will fill up fast; and players, now is the time to sign up to get the slots you want!

     Barrage is a low-stress gaming event, focusing on having fun with miniatures games of many different genres, scales, and sets of rules.  In the past we’ve had a half dozen dealers, a few flea market tables, over 200 attendees, and thirty or more miniatures games. 
     Full details at the BARRAGE Webpage: BARRAGE ’19

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Dreadmere Wight: Bones 4 Dreadmere Figure

Chris Palmer

      This past week I painted the Dreadmere Wight from the Bones 4 Dreadmere expansion set.
      I prepped the figure in the usual way, soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsed and dried it. Then, after cutting down the base a little, I glued the figure to a black-primed 1" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then glued the washer to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of Elmers glue.

      I began by painting all the skin with Americana “Reindeer Moss Green”, and the under smock with Americana “Antique White”.  I then and the robes with Crafter’s Acrylic “Cinnamon Brown”, and the cowl with Americana “Asphaltum”.

      Next, I painted the rope belts with Americana “Fawn”, and the tankard, belt buckle, and robe clasp with Americana “Zinc”.  I then painted the little coffin with Americana “Mississippi Mud”, his beard with Apple Barrel “Rock Grey”, and his teeth with Americana “Bleached Sand”.

          Then, when everything had had time to dry,  I gave the entire figure a wash with Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash.  When the wash was dry, I repainted the tankard with Reaper MSP “Aged Pewter”, and the belt buckle, and robe clasp with Accent “Princely Pewter”.  Then, when those colors had had time to dry, I went over them with a little Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash.   After that, I painted the eyes with Americana “Moon Yellow”.

    Next, I highlighted the skin with the base “Reindeer Moss Green”. After that, I painted his toe and finger nails with Folk Art “Butter Pecan”. I then highlighted his under smock with the base “Antique White”, and highlighted his robes with Folk Art “Teddy Bear Brown”.  After that, I highlighted his cowl with Nicole’s “Brown”, and then did the highlights on his beard with first, Folk Art “Platinum Grey”, and then a little Americana “Snow White”. While I had the “Snow White” out, I added some little dots to his eyes and teeth with it.   I then turned to the rope belts, highlighting them with the “Bleached Sand”, and the little coffin hanging from the belt with a mix of a little of the “Bleached Sand” with the base “Mississippi Mud”.  I then highlighted his tankard with Ceramcoat “Metallic Silver”, and the buckle and clasp with some Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”.  Lastly, I painted the entire base with the “Mississippi Mud”.
       I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.    Then, when  the varnish was dry, I used some white glue to flock the base.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed it with Testor’s “Dullcote”.

   This was a fun simple figure to paint up , and I’m really happy with how he turned out!

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2019/07/dreadmere-wight-bones-4-dreadmere-figure.html
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Gencon Preparations Continue — Oathsworn Mouse

Rob Dean

I had a little time for painting yesterday, so I decided that I had better work on more of the Burrows and Badgers figures I will be needing for Gencon.  I finished off another mouse warrior.  By Sunday, whatever I have done will be the pool of potential recruits for the third warband I’m providing.

via The Sharp End of the Brush http://sharpbrush.blogspot.com/2019/07/gencon-preparations-continue-oathsworn.html
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Axebeak: Bones 4 Lost Valley Figure

Chris Palmer

  This past week I also painted the Axebeak from the Bones 4 Lost Valley Expansion set.  This was one of the last remaining monsters I needed to complete my Ghost Archipelago bestiary, so was happy to finally get it in my hands.
       I prepped the figure in the usual way, soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  I then glued the figure to a pair of black-primed 1" fender washers, set adjacent to one another, with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then placed the figure in my painting grip.

     I began by painting its body with Americana “Wedgewood Blue”, its beak and eyes with Reaper MSP “Hearth Fire”, and its crest and tail with Americana “Grey Sky”.

     Next, I painted the legs and “hands” with Ceramcoat “Raw Sienna”, and his tongue with Americana “Shading Flesh”.  I then let the figure dry for a while, and afterwards gave the entire thing a coat of Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash.  When the wash was dry, I drybrushed the main body with a mix of the base"Wedgewood Blue" and some lighter Crafter’s Acrylic Tropical Blue".

     I then drybrushed the beak with some Americana “Tangerine”, and did further highlights with a mix of the Tangerine and some Apple Barrel “Lemon Chiffon”. Next, I drybrushed the tail and the crest with Americana “Snow White”, and the legs and “hands” with a mix of the base “Raw Sienna” and some lighter Ceramcoat “Maple Sugar Tan”.    After that I used some of the “raw Sienna”/“Maple Sugar Tan” mix and painted highlights directly on the ribbing on the legs.  I followed up by painting the talons with just some of the “Maple Sugar Tan”, and highlighting his tongue with the base “Shading Flesh”.
     Next, I painted  toucan-like markings on his beak, and did his eyes, with Ceramcoat “Black”.  I then went back and painted irises in the eyes with Americana “True Blue”, and added in “Black” pupils and some “Snow White” highlight specks.  Lastly, I painted the entire base with “Americana "Mississippi Mud”.
       I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.    Then, when  the varnish was dry, I used some white glue to flock the base.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed it with Testor’s “Dullcote”.  When the “Dullcote” was dry, I went back and hit is eyes with a little Americana “DuraClear Gloss” varnish. 

     This is a nice simple figure, and was an easy one to paint up. I’m generally pleased with how it turned out.

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2019/07/axebeak-bones-4-lost-valley-figure.html
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