Monthly Archives: June 2017

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Saxons attacking a Viking fort.

Saxons attacking a Viking fort.

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Starting a Saga game at HAWKs night.

Starting a Saga game at HAWKs night.

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Japanese Cards for Combat Patrol(TM)

Buck

I have begun to format the cards for the Japanese South Pacific supplement to Combat Patrol™: World War II.  The Action Deck is largely the same as the basic rules.  The difference will be in the morale section.  For the Japanese cards, the morale results are more unit type results and fewer individual results.  The graphics look more tropical as well.

The South Pacific set will include three Action Decks.  For those who don’t want to buy the South Pacific set of Acton Decks, they can look up the serial number on the bottom of a card and index the result in a table in the South Pacific supplement.  Other than the cards, the South Pacific supplement will be a free download, like all the other supplements.

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Some Quick and Simple Bones 3 Weapon Swaps.

Chris Palmer

     Since I got a number of the new hard plastic weapon sprues in my recent Bones 3 Kickstarter shipment,  I was eager to play with some of them and do some simple conversions on a couple of the new figures.
       As shown in my previous post I got two types of weapons sprues from the KS; a grey plastic set that came with the Core set, and a clear plastic set that was a additionally purchased add-on set.   Each of these sets came with four different sprues: The Arsenal, The Armory of Virtue, The Armory of Vice, and the Armory of Death.

All four clear sets.

A section of the Armory of Virtue.

 I began by selecting three figures that I thought would be simple ones to do conversions on; with weapon wielding hands accessibly placed on outstretched arms: Galadanoth, Elf Sniper, from the original Core Set, one of the Bandits from the Stoneskull set, and Jurden, Half-Orc Paladin from the Heroes I Set.  I also selected three weapons, a clear bow from the Arsenal Set, a hammer from the Armory of Death set, and a sword from the Armory of Virtue.

     I began by slicing off the existing weapons directly above and below the hand, trying to leave nice flat cuts perpendicular to the alignment of the hand.   I then drilled small holes through the hands with my Dremel tool.

You can see here I slipped on the archer’s hand and accidentally drilled through part of it. 

    Then I used a hobby knife to make a small slice through the hand right at the end of the fingertips and base of the thumb.  You need to be extra careful to only cut though one side of the drilled hole, and not slice the whole end of the hand off.
     I then test fit the weapons into the hands to make sure the hand would close again around the grip of the weapon.  If they were too big, rather than risk drilling a larger hole, I simply filed down the handle of the weapon a little to make its diameter smaller.

      I then super glued the weapon into place, and held the hand closed until the glue set. For the archer with the missing section of hand, I tried to apply some extra superglue to fill in where the missing fingers would be.  I’ll then attempt to hide the mistake with paint.

     I’m happy with how these turned out, and look forward to painting them up.   It may be a while though, as my Bones 3 painting queue is beginning to get quite extensive as I keep picking out one cool figure after another to paint “next”.  😀

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“One More Gaming Project” Hits 200,000th View!

Chris Palmer    I’m happy to announce today that over the weekend “One More Gaming Project” received its 200,000 view!   I just wanted to thank all my readers for their continued support!  

      It’s been just over 7 years since I started this blog and it’s been an enjoyable journey.  Here’s to the next seven years!

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Combat Patrol Games at NJ Con 2017

Buck

Battle commences in a Caribbean port town during the War of 1812

Several HAWKs (Duncan, Eric, Chris J., Zeb, and I) went to NJ Con (Fire in the East) this weekend to run and play some games.  To minimize the amount of terrain we needed to carry up there, we ran a series of scenarios in different historical periods on a the same terrain, with minor changes between games.

War of 1812

Duncan prepares to run with War of 1812 game using the Napoleonic supplement to Combat Patrol.

The first was a War of 1812 game using the free Napoleonic supplement to Combat Patrol™.  The scenario involved an American force landing in a small, British-held, port town in the Caribbean.

A British unit advances from a small building

The Americans landed in small boats and then advanced inland to destroy the British supplies.  While the Americans got to the British supply room and started it on fire a couple of times, the British were able to put it out.

The Americans got to this house and set up before I got there, even though I started closer to it. I charged up the stairs to try to take back the building – but that didn’t work out too well.

The game was a lot of fun, and I think the scenario was pretty balanced, but in the end, the Americans left the table without successfully destroying the supplies.

British defending the supplies, which were stored in the wooden building with canvas roof.

British defending the supplies, which were stored in the wooden building with canvas roof.

American sailors on the beach.

Moros in the Philippines

Our second game on this table was a Moro assault on an American-defended village in the Philippines.  For this game, I left the terrain exactly as we had for the War of 1812 game.  Where the Americans attacked British from the beach, the Moros attacked from the opposite edge of the table, swarming out of the jungle.

The Moro game is about to begin!

The Moros had to attack out of the jungle, burn the same supply hut, and capture livestock.  In the lower right of the picture above, you can see that the Americans had a small field gun, but the crew was asleep in one of the buildings when the attack began.  They had to rush to the gun before they could fire it.  The gun was able to knock out the Moro gun by the end of the game.

Moros swarmed over the village.

The American force consisted of two squads of infantry, a squad of Moro Constabulary, and a squad of Filipinos.  The Moros had 12 teams of infantry and a black-powder improvised gun.  The American players felt like the Moros were swarming over them, and there were a number of nail biting moments.  While Eric’s Moros got to the supply hut, they were unsuccessful in lighting the supplies on fire.

Pass of the North Moros advance out of the jungle.

For this game, I used Combat Patrol™: World War II with few modifications.

Crazy carnage in the jungle

Crazy carnage in the jungle

The Moros had few rifles, but they were really good in hand-to-hand combat, so the Moro players spent a lot of time trying to close with the Americans.  I also gave the Moros and extra +1 in hand-to-hand when they charged with spears.  The Moros generally did well in hand-to-hand combat, but there were some upside down moments when two Moros ganged up on a single American but lost the combat anyway.

More Moros?! How many are there?

 Wild West

The third game was a wild west shoot-em-up using Zeb Cook’s recently-released Wild West supplement.

Eric and Jeff preparing to begin the carnage.

For this game we added a few more buildings, replaced the palm trees with cacti, and changed up the “set dressings.”  I think the town looked convincingly southwestern.

Howard Whitehouse preparing to enter the dynamite, coal oil, and whiskey storage shed!

In Zeb’s town there was apparently a desperado convention being held.  The figures standing on the poker chips had a price on their head equal to the value of the chip.  There were four teams of bounty hunters competing to collect the most bounties.  In addition, each of us had a price on our head, so there was a lot of incentive to shoot each other as well.  Wild and wooly mayhem ensured.

Advancing into the Cantina to gun down an outlaw – and perhaps stop for a whiskey.

I think in these pictures you can see that changing up a few items made the town convincing for different historical periods.

No Western town is complete without a gallows.

Richard Sharpe with Blood and Swash

In addition to our three Combat Patrol™ games, Eric ran a Sharpe in the Peninsula game, using Blood and Swash.  A memorable moment came when Harper fired his volley gun and killed both Hakeswell and Sharpe.

You can see from these pictures that swapping out the cacti with some deciduous and palm trees and removing much of the wild west set dressing made the town look like the Peninsula.

Riflemen advance…

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Kallaguk, Troll King: Bones 2 Figure

Chris Palmer

     This past week I painted the Kallaguk, Troll King, figure from the Bones 2 Swamp Things set.  My Bones 3 box arrived as I was working on this figure, so it will probably be my last Bones 2 figure for a while. 🙂
     I prepped the figure in the usual way; soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.   I was a little worried about this sculpt, as it has a tendency to lean forward due to the large gut, and very small ankles to support it.  My concern was that even if I set him upright again using the hot water method, the weight of his stomach would just pull him forward again.

     So, I decided that a small support pole under the belly might be the best thing to assure he maintained his status as an upright citizen.   I drilled a small hole in his base, and then cut a section of paper clip to fit up through it.  I then bent the paper clip in an “L” shape, and cut a notch under the base to fit the horizantal bottom of the “L”.

  I then inserted the paperclip section and glued the figure to a black-primed 1.5" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then glued the washer-mounted figure to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of the Elmer’s glue.

     I began painting by doing his skin with Vallejo “Brown Violet”, and then doing his belly and the insides of his arms and legs with Reaper MSP Bones “Dungeon Slime”.  I then painted his groin hair and beard with Vallejo “Olive Drab”.

     Next, I painted the inside of his mouth with Apple Barrel “Apple Lt. Pink”, and his teeth with Americana “Antique White”. I then painted his club handle with Americana “Mississippi Mud”, and the rock at the end of it with Americana “Neutral Grey”. After they dried, I went back and painted the rope wrapped around it all with Folk Art “Butter Pecan”,  the spikes with Americana “Raw Umber”, and the fang at the end with more of the “Antique White”.  His claws were next, and I did them with Folk Art “Barn Wood”. 

     I then painted the little dingle dangles on his club with various colors sitting around my painting table, and then turned to the little pustules on his stomach and arms, painting them with Folk Art “Barnyard Red”.   Then, after everything had a while to dry, I gave the figure a wash with Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash using a wet brush.  When the wash was dry, I drybrushed all his scaly outer skin with Aleene’s “Dusty Khaki”, and then painted the spikes on his back with Black.

     Next, I highlighted his belly with a mix of the “Dungeon Slime” and some White. I then painted his eyes with Crafter’s Acrylic “Pumpkin Orange”, and then gave them Black pupils and White highlight dots.  I then did highlights on the teeth, and the fang in the club,  with Americana “Bleached Sand”, and the tongue with some of the base “Lt Apple Pink” mixed with a little White.  After that I worked on the pustules, painting them with Crafter’s Acrylic “Tutti Frutti” highlights, and then highlighted the claws with Folk Art “Porcelain White”.   I moved to the club next, giving the handle highlights with the “Barn Wood”, and the stone at the end with Folk Art “Platinum Grey”.  For the spikes I used  Folk Art “Teddy Bear Brown” to do the highlights, and for the robe I used “Antique White”.  I highlighted the spikes on his back with the “Neutral Gray”.
     I felt he looked a little plain, so I decided to add some Black stripes on his head and neck plates, and then drybrushed some Crafter’s Acrylic “Daffodil Yellow” onto the top edges.  Lastly, I painted the figures integral base (and the paperclip support) with Ceramcoat “Walnut.
       I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana "DuraClear Matte” varnish.   When that was dry, I decided I would try to make his base look a little marshy, so I dabbed on some Apple Barrel “Apple Black Green”, and then applied some Woodland Scenics Water Effects with a brush to a small area. (Not realizing at that point the Dullcote spray would take away the shine.)  When the Water Effects was dry, I added some flock to the base, and then some tufts; one strategically placed to hide his paperclip support.  Another overnight dry, and I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote".  When the Dullcote was dry, I went back and applied some Americana “DuraClear Gloss” varnish to the Water Effects area, his eyes, and the inside of his mouth as well as his tongue.  I also took a little bit of the Water Effects and tried to do a little drop of spit coming off the end of his tongue.

     I’m generally happy with how he turned out.  It’s not a great paint job, but it gets the figure done.

     On Thursday I think I will post an article on doing some weapon conversions, since I have all those cool new weapon sprues.  Then on next Monday I will post my first Bones 3 figure.

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Hinchliffe Week

Rob Dean

I’ve mentioned previously that I ended up with a cache of mostly Hinchliffe mostly Byzantines from the flea market at Huzzah in 2015.  Last year sometime, I cleaned and primed a dozen Varangians with axes, intending to add them to my fantasy Byzantine project.
I recently finished them.
Myzantine Dragon Guards
Inspired by this success, I went to the box and pulled out eighteen peasants, a handful of crossbowmen, and ten Pecheneg horse archers.  I figured that, as long as I had the metal cleaning gear out, I might as well add a half dozen Ral Partha/Iron Wind Metals Mongol horse archers to the mix.  That was Monday, the 29th of May.
Metal cleaning day

Old Hinchliffes have a rough-and-ready sculpting style, which responds reasonable well to mass painting.  I’m not too fond of the crossbowman casting, but I painted them anyway, but the peasants came out reasonable well for as little time as I put into them.

Five Myzantine crossbow skirmishers

With eighteen peasants (including one stray Byzantine staff slinger), I decided that I would base two groups of six, and the rest as individuals.  Most of the fantasy rules I’m using now are based around twelve figure units.

Hinchliffe Peasants

Unfortunately for my budget, just as I was cleaning and priming the figures, somebody on the Old School Miniatures discussion on FaceBook posted a picture asking for identification of a Hinchliffe Robin Hood peasant woman.

I ended up deciding to thicken up the individually based peasants with a bunch of Robin Hood figures, since the castings are available from Hinds Figures. Mr. Hinds was very prompt with my order, so I now have a couple of dozen Robin Hood and Sheriff figures in hand, which will probably form a pair of matched war bands for Dragon Rampant, as well as serve as bandits for D&D.

Newly arrived Robin Hood range figures

I have a dozen of those, including the principal characters, primed as of this morning, and hope to get started on them shortly.

As a bit of a digression, I had some time to paint at lunch this week, and finished a unit of Ral Partha/Iron Wind Metals orcs, from the recent Chaos Wars Kickstarter.  They’d been sitting in my cupboard for a good while, so I was glad to clear them out.  I’ve also primed another dozen goblins to follow up.

Chaos Wars orc warriors

So it’s been a good week or two for painting…

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Combat Patrol Moros in the Philippines at NJCON.

Combat Patrol Moros in the Philippines at NJCON.

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