Monthly Archives: October 2015

Another Frostgrave Cork Ruin, Two-Story This Time

Chris Palmer    I built another cork tile ruin for Frostgrave this week. (You can see my first attempt here.)  This time I wanted to achieve a few things different than the first one; a second story to test how the cork held up to a taller structure, more debris scattered around, and a stone rather than a dirt base.

      I used a 6"x 6" cork tile for the base and inscribed a 1 inch grid on it to represent paving/foundation stones

    The wood is a mix of balsa and bass. The debris was made from cork scraps, aquarium gravel, and course sand.   I  painted it with my regular acrylic hobby paint.

      The snow is from an old bottle of DecoArt “Snow-Tex”,  textured snow paint, that I’ve had sitting around for at least a decade.  I never had a use for it, and making these ruins inspired me to dig it out and put it to use. It goes on nice and thick and lumpy.  Once that was dry, I brushed it with some white glue and then applied Woodland Scenics snow flocking,

     I’m very pleased with how this building turned out, and I am currently considering what to build next.  I’m considering doing a wizards tower, and attempting bend a sheet of cork into a round shape using an oatmeal canister as a base.  my other thought is some sort of twin square towers that have some sort of precarious bridge between them.  I also have in the back of my mind doing some sort of frozen dock for a Frostgrave waterfront…

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Eye Candy for Combat Patrol

Buck

Home Guard hurrying to get their copy of Combat Patrol

Home Guard hurrying to get their copy of Combat Patrol ™

Thanks to Rob Dean, I have completed the final edit of Combat Patrol: World War Two.   Last night I shot a few pictures to fill white space in the booklet.  These are photos that don’t actually have a role in the booklet except as eye candy.  I plan to finish filling white space over the weekend and upload the rules to DriveThru.  That means the rules will be available Monday or Tuesday of next week — ahead of my Fall In goal.

American infantry assault an enemy bunker

American infantry assault an enemy bunker. This is what happens to those who don’t rush right out and get a copy of Combat Patrol ™.

The basic rules are just eight pages long.  The whole book is 44 pages plus table of contents, cover page, etc.  This includes extensive tables of vehicle and anti-tank weapon attributes.

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Plasticville Airport

Buck

I have been busy getting Combat Patrol ™ ready for publication, so I haven’t done much painting lately.  I did finish these two buildings for the airport near the town of Granville I use for my pulp games.

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Town Guard (Anhurian) Bowman: Bones II Figure

Chris Palmer

     This week I also completed the Town Guard Bowman from the Bones II, Expansion 2.  I hadn’t bought Expansion 2 during the Kickstarter, but I was able to get the Town Guard set from a friend, as I was keen to use them for Frostgrave soldiers.
      I prepped the figure in the usual way; soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish- soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  I then glued the figure to a white-primed 1" fender washers with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then glued the washer-mounted figure to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of the Elmer’s glue.

     I began by painting the chainmail Black, and then drybrushing it with Ceramcoat “Metallic Pewter”.

     Next, I painted his pants with Americana “Territorial Beige”, his tunic with Americana “Avocado”, and his shoulder pads with Crafters Edition “Spice Brown”. His hoodie I painted with Americana “Zinc, and the little secondary shoulder pads under the other shoulder pads I painted Americana "Dapple Grey”

     I then painted his bow with Crafters Acrylic “Cinnamon Brown”, then did his face and hands with Americana “Shading Flesh”.  I painted his boots with Folk Art “Dark Brown” and his belts with Americana “Charcoal Grey”.  Then I did his helmet, sword grip, and quiver with Americana “Asphaltum”. The top of the scabbard I painted with Americana “Khaki Tan”. 

   Next, I painted his scabbard with Aleene’s “Deep Khaki”, then did the arrow shafts with Crafters Edition “Taupe”, and the fletchings with Folk Art “Porcelain White”.  Then, after everything had a while to dry, I gave all the non-metallic parts a wash with GW “Agrax Earthshade” wash using a wet brush.

     After the wash had plenty of time to dry, I began doing highlights.  First I painted his eyes, then I highlighted his skin with the base “Shading Flesh”.  Next, I highlighted his tunic with some of the “Avocado” mixed with a little Americana “Jade Green”.  Then I highlighted his pants with some of the “Khaki Tan”. His double shoulder pads I highlighted with their respective base colors, then I highlighted the bow with its base “Cinnamon Brown” . His boots I highlighted with Americana “Sable Brown”, and then I highlighted his belts, helmet, and scabbard with Americana “Mississippi Mud”. His scabbard I highlighted with the base “Deep Khaki”, and his hood I did with Crafters Acrylic “Storm Cloud Grey”.  The arrow shafts I highlighted with the “Taupe”, and the fletchings I highlighted with Crafters Acrylic “Light Antique White”.
   Next, I painted his helmet bands, his buckles, and the metal parts of his sword and scabbard with Accent “Princely Pewter”. I then highlighted these with the “Metallic Pewter”. I also took this opportunity to highlight any of his chainmail armor that needed a touch up with the “Metallic Pewter”.
     Lastly, I painted his base White.  I then applied a little area of white glue to the base and sprinkled some sand on it.   When the glue was dry, I painted the sanded area with Ceramcoat Walnut. Then when it was dry, I drybrushed it with Folk Art “Medium Grey”, then Folk Art “Barn Wood”. When everything had overnight to dry, I gave the figure a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”.  Then, the next morning, I flocked the white areas with Woodland Scenics “Snow” flock.  Later that afternoon I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote.

     I’m really pleased with this guy.  I think he came out looking good with a nice simple paint job.

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Quick and Easy Frostgrave Cork Ruin

Chris Palmer   This week I knocked out a quick Frostgrave ruin made from cork sheet, as a way to test how the cork would  look as a stone building.
      I purchased a pack of these rough textured cork panels from the local Craft Store, with a 50%-off coupon, and thought they would make good rock walls from my Fostgrave ruins.

      So, I fashioned a quick rudimentary ruin by snapping off a section of a cork tile, and cutting it into  three walls. with some simple windows which I framed up with balsa. I then made some small fourth walls, with a doorway, using the window cut-outs.   I then cut out a foamcore base, and glued the ruin to it.  Next, I ran white glue around the base of the walls, and scattered onto the glue any cork scraps, some small gravel, and pieces of rough broken up wood scraps.

     I then painted the whole thing.

   When the paint was dry, I added some snow; and some icicles, which I made with hot glue.

     I’m very pleased with how this turned out, and I think the cork looks good as stone,  but I think I shouldn’t have put the ruin on the big rounded “dirt” foamcore base, as it doesn’t quite fit the city-scape look. I was thinking in terms of how I usually construct buildings for use in a more natural setting.  I think any future ruins I make will be on a more structured squared base, painted like stone.

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Sascha Dubois: Figure 176 of 265

Chris Palmer

   This week I completed the Sascha Dubois figure from the Chronoscope Set.  I had posted an article here two week as ago about how I had converted this figure to be more of a fantasy figure than a sci-fi one, so it could fill the roll of a Chonomancer apprentice for my Frostgrave games.
       I had already prepped the figure in the usual way before I did the conversion work, so I moved directly to gluing the figure to a white-primed 1" fender washers with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then glued the washer-mounted figure to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of the Elmer’s glue.

     I began by painting her skin with Americana “Shading Flesh”.  I then painted her top with Accent “Mustard Seed”, and her pants with Americana “Zinc”.

     Next, I painted her coat with Accent “Deep Forest Green”, and then went back to the “Mustard Seed” and used that to paint all the facings  and turnbacks on her coat. I then painted her boots, scabbard, belts, and the stone circle she stands on, with Black.  I used to Crafters Edition “Spice Brown” to paint her gloves, and Americana “Territorial Beige” to paint her hair.   When everything had had a while to dry, I gave all the browns,  yellows and her skin a wash with Winsor Newton “peat Brown ink using a wet brush.

   When the wash was dry, I painted her eyes and lips; then highlighted her hair, first with Apple Barrel "Maple Syrup”, and then with Apple Barrel “Lemon Chiffon”.  I then highlighted her skin, first with the base “Shading Flesh”,  then adding a little Crafters Acrylic “Flesh” to it to do some lighter highlights.  I then highlighted her coat, first with Americana “Forest Green”, and then with Americana “Leaf Green”.  Next, I did the highlights on her top, and all the coat facings and turnbacks with, first, Crafters Acrylic “Bright Yellow”, and then Crafters Acrylic “Daffodil Yellow”.  Her pants were next, and I highlighted them with, first, Americana “Neutral Grey”, and then Crafters Acrylic “Storm Cloud Grey”.  Her boots, belts and scabbard I gave highlights with Folk Art “Settlers Blue”. I painted her wand (?) hanging from her belt with the “Spice Brown”, then highlighted the gloves and the wand with Americana “Sable Brown”. I then painted the sword grip with Ameircana “Asphaltum”.
   I then worked on the stone circle, drybrushing it first with Apple Barrel “Rock Grey”, and then with Folk Art “Platinum Grey”.
   

    Next, I worked on the metals, painting her epaulets, buttons, buckles, the pocket watch, the key at her belt, the rings on her wand, and the sword and scabbard parts all with Ceramcoat “Bronze”. I then went back and highlighted all these parts with Cermcoat “14k Gold”.  I then painted the bead string on her belt with Folk Art “Metallic Blue Sapphire”. Lastly, I painted the base around the stone with “White” to cover any paint that had accidentally gotten on it; and while I had the White out, I panted in the face of the pocket watch, and then got the Black and my thinnest brush and painted a pair of hands on the watch face.
      When everything had overnight to dry, I gave the figure a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”.  The next morning I flocked the base around the stone circle with Woodland Scenics “Snow” flock.  Late that afternoon I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote.

     I’m really pleased with how this figure turned out.  I think  she will fit fine as the Chronomancers Apprentice.

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Quick and Easy Frostgrave Terrain Cloth

Chris Palmer    I recently completed a gray winter-themed terrain cloth to use for my Frostgrave games.  I wanted to give it a hint of ancient cobblestones and a frozen feel to it.
   I found a great 36" wide mottled gray felt to use as my base, and bought 4’ of it.  I then purchased a round silicon trivet (for use in the kitchen) that has a hex pattern on it, and a large black ink stamp pad.

      I cut the trivet into random shapes, and laid out the cloth on one of my gaming tables.

      I then randomly stamped “cobblestones” here and there on the cloth, trying to keep the general orientation of the hex pattern all pointing in the same direction.

      After I stamped the cloth, I then sprayed it randomly with white spray paint followed by accents here and there with Tamiya Medium Blue (Navy) spray paint.

     Here’s a close up of how it looks.

    And here it is with some terrain and figures set up on it.

    I’m very pleased with the results.  It gives me the effect I’m looking for at a fraction of  the cost of a commercially produced gaming mat.

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HAWK Don Hogge shows off the photo of his Historicon…

HAWK Don Hogge shows off the photo of his Historicon “Muskets & Tomahawks” game, that appears in this month’s “Wargames Illustrated” magazine.

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Combat Patrol Games Scheduled for Fall In! 2015

Buck

I will be running two games at Fall In featuring the about-to-be-released Combat Patrol: World War II rules.  As of yesterday, there were still slots open for these games.  Be the first in your club to try out this new game.

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Rex, Dark Future Hero: Figure 175 of 265

Chris Palmer

    This week I completed Rex, Dark Future Hero from the Chronoscope set.  It wasn’t hard to see that this was supposed to be a not-Arnold figure from Terminator, so I did a quick Google search to see the exact colors of his classic T-1 outfit were.
       I prepped the figure in the usual way; soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish- soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  I then glued the figure to a black-primed 1" fender washers with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then glued the washer-mounted figure to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of the Elmer’s glue.

      I began by painting the entire figure Black.  I then drybrushed the entire figure with Folk Art “Settlers Blue”.  Next, I painted his shirt with Americana “Zinc”.

     I then painted his skin with Americana “Shading Flesh”, and the stock of the shotgun with Crafters Acrylic “Cinnamon Brown”.   After these were dry, I gave the skin and the stock a wash with Winsor-Newton “Peat Brown” ink using a wet brush.

     When the wash was dry, I painted his eyes, then did highlights on his face, hands, and arm with the base “Shading Flesh”.  I then mixed a little Americana “Mocha” into the “Shading Flesh” to do some lighter highlights.  It was at this time that I realized that he was wearing what looked like a fingerless motorcycle glove on his right hand.  So, I quickly painted it Black and did some “Settlers Blue” highlights on it.  I took this opportunity to add Black eyebrows on him, and do some more specific “Settlers Blue” highlights on his black outfit.  I then added highlights to his shirt with Folk Art “Medium Grey”.
     I now worked on the metallics, painting the metal parts of the shotgun with Accent “Princely Pewter”. I then highlighted the gun parts and painted his belt buckle with Ceramcoat “Metallic Pewter”.  Finally, I painted his jacket’s many zippers with Folk Art “Silver Sterling”.
      I decided I was going to leave the metal plate he is standing on exposed when I flocked the base, so I wanted to paint it like a piece of rusty metal and began by painting it with Ceramcoat “Walnut”.  Then, with an old frazzled small brush, I stippled and splotched Crafters Edition “Spice Brown” over it trying to keep it off his boots.  Next, I did the same, but to a lesser extent with Accent “Golden Oxide”. I then touched up any areas on his boots with Black where I had gotten spots on them.
       After the figure had the afternoon to dry, I gave it a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish” in the evening.  The next morning I flocked the base, and later that afternoon I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote.  I let the figure st overnight, and the next morning I applied a gloss varnish to his leather jacket to make it look really shiny like it does in the Terminator photos I had looked at.

     I’m pleased with how the figure turned out. Nothing terribly impressive, but a nice useful pulp, zombie, or sci-fi genre  game figure.

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