Monthly Archives: September 2014

Dragonman Warrior: Figure 116 of 265

Chris Palmer

This week I painted the Dragonman Warrior from the Fighters Set.  For some reason, as I looked at this figure, I saw it wearing a bronze-ish colored suit of armor. I thought it would be a nice match for the greenish color I planned to paint his “skin”.  Once I decided that, it was easy for me to plan a whole green and yellow toned theme for his look.
      I did my preparation of this figure in the usual way; soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying.  I then glued the figure to a 1” black-primed fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and glued the washer to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of Elmer’s White Glue.

I began by painting black just the areas where he wore armor. When the black was dry, I gave it a heavy drybrushing with GW “Brazen Brass”.

Next, I painted his head, hands, and feet with Americana “Avocado”. Then I painted his “skirts” with Apple Barrel “Yellow”.  I next painted the rim of the shield and the blank area on the face of it with Folk Art “Hunter Green”. The wing design on the shield I painted with Folk Art “Golden Harvest”

I then painted his claws with Americana “Reindeer Moss Green” and his teeth with Americana “Buttermilk”.  The back of his shield I painted Ceramcoat “Walnut”, and the handle straps, as well as the sword grip I painted Americana “Asphaltum”.  When all these colors had dried, I gave his face, hands, feet, “skirts”, and the “wings on his shield, a wash with thinned Winsor-Newton “Peat Brown” Ink.
    When the ink was dry, I went back and added his eyes, using Americana “Moon Yellow” for his “whites”, and black for the pupil. I then went back and added highlights to his face, hands and feet using the base “Avocado”, and to his claws with the base “Reindeer Moss Green”.  I highlighted his skirt with the base “Yellow” and then went back and added a little of the “Moon Yellow” to the “Yellow”,  and did some lighter highlights. The wings on the shield I highlighted with the base “Golden Harvest”, then I added a little of the “Moon Yellow” to the Golden Harvest as well, and did some finer highlights here too.

Next I painted his sword blade with Ceramcoat “Metallic Pewter”, and the hilt with Ceramcoat “Bronze”. While I had the “Bronze” out, I used some to add highlights to his armor, hitting the edges of plates and the rivets.  I then went back and added highlights to the sword blade with Folk Art “Silver Sterling”. I gave the hilt a little wash with some of the thinned “Peat Brown” ink, and when it was dry, went back and added highlights to the hilt with Ceramcoat “14K Gold”.   I used some f the “Walnut” to paint the ares of the base that were still white, and then I set the figure to dry.
     The next morning I gave it  coat of  Ceramcoat “Mate Varnish”. Later that afternoon, I flocked the base.  The following day, I sprayed the figure with “Testor’s Dullcote”.

  I’m pleased with how the figure turned out.  I really like the sculpt, and the armor and the blade have some nice details that make it look appropriately non-human.   In the end I think the green and yellow scheme worked well on this figure.

Figure 116 of 265: Complete

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Trolls Snacking on Captives: Mage Knight Figure to 10mm Monster Conversion

Chris Palmer      In the flea market at Barrage (our club’s one-day gaming convention) a couple weeks ago, I found a pair of old Mage Knight figures called “Half-Troll Gorger”.  The figure is of a large troll-ish creature taking a bite from a piece of meat it holds clenched in one of it’s hands.  I noticed the piece of meat was shaped vaguely like a little person, with a head and an arm.  The spark immediately went off in my brain; that it would be a quick and easy conversion to cut off that piece of meat, and actually replace it with  10mm figure to make a cool new unit for my 10mm “Bear Yourselves Valiantly” armies.   For you 15mm gamers, I think a 15mm figure would do the trick nicely too.

The base models

     So I took the pair of figures home, and began the process. I popped the figures from their clicky bases with an hobby knife, and then easily sliced the meat from their hands.  I then rummaged in my box of spare figures from my 10mm War of the Roses project, and found a couple suitable figures to chop up.  One was an archer, and the other a charging figure with wide spread legs. After cutting them down, I made sure they fitted nicely on top of the trolls’ hands so the arm of one, and the leg of the other, lined up with the trolls’ mouths. I then glued them in place with some super glue.

Converted with 10mm captives added to their hands.

      When the glue holding the half-figures had dried, I sprayed the trolls flat black, glued them to a BYV sized base, and repainted them.
      I’m really pleased with how these turned out. I think they make a nice characterful stand of monsters for use with any evil army.

The finished figures

A close up of the captives

Shown battling a unit of 10mm Elves

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Reaper BONES CAV Kickstarter Enter Final Day and a Half

Chris Palmer Just a heads that the Reaper CAV (10mm Big Stompy Mechs) Kickstarter is in it’s last day and a half, and will end tomorrow.  Now’s the time to jump in and take part, as the core set has grown to a very nice deal.  Or, if you’re like me and the big mechs are’t you thing, get in to the Kickstarter just for the great deal on the 10mm tanks and other vehicles.

You can check it out here

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Reaper Bones CAV Kickstarter Enters Final Day and a Half

Chris Palmer

Just a heads up for all you Bones fans, that the Reaper CAV (10mm Big Stompy Mechs) Kickstarter is in it’s last day and a half, and will end tomorrow.  Now’s the time to jump in and take part, as the core set has grown to a very nice deal.  Or, if you’re like me and the big mechs are’t you thing, get in to the Kickstarter just for the great deal on the 10mm tanks and other vehicles.

You can check it out here

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LSNC WWII & WWI Game Day & Farewell Party

Chris Palmer   This past Saturday some of the HAWKs were invited up to run a couple games at Sam Fuson’s Warhorse Farm in Gettysburg, PA as part of a farewell party for one of the fellows in Sam’s unit who was moving on to another assignment.
  We began the day with a large semi-historical WWII battle from the Polish campaign in September of 1939, run by Buck Surdu using “Look, Sarge, No Charts: WWII” rules.  In the battle Russian and German forces are converging on the Polish held town of Zboiska, while the Poles are tasked with clearing some German heavy artillery off a nearby ridge that is shelling the city of Lvov.  Historically, the Germans left the town for the Russians to take, and moved off to other objectives.  In our game, we pitted the Russians and Germans in a race to see who could capture the town first.

An overview of the T-shaped battlefield. The Germans are attacking from the near table edge on the left, the Russians from the right, and the Poles are counterattacking up the base of the T in the center.

German infantry, on the right, tries to find a weak spot in a treeline held by Polish cavalry.

A view of the battle from the Russian side, with the town of Zboiska in the distance.

Russian armor and infantry advances 

    In the end, the Poles were able to gain the ridge and had captured some of the guns. The Germans and Russians had both been able to eventually punch through the Polish defenses with their armor and the tanks were nearing their objective, but most of their infantry had been beat up in the fight so the chances of either side taking the Polish-held town were slim.  The game was declared a Polish victory.

     After a late lunch , Duncan Adams set up a WWI battle using a combo of modifed LSNC: WWII & ACW rules.  The battle was from the opening maneuvers of the Battle of the Marne.  The Germans were tasked with pushing counterattacking French forces back from a ridgeline that the Germans occupied.

A view of the battlefield.

German forces advance on the right, as elements of a French Colonial brigade move out to meet them.
In the end the French were able to push a small force onto the German held ridge on the French left, even though the French right had been badly mauled and was collapsing under repeated German attacks.  The game was called a marginal French victory.
  Everyone had a great time, and it was a nice send-off for a friend.

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Duke Gerard: Figure 115 of 265

Chris Palmer

     This week I started on the Fighters Set, and painted Duke Gerard. I thought I’d start with the simplest figure in the set, to get myself back in a fantasy mind frame after painting the remainder of the more realistic figures in the Zombie Humters Set earlier in the month.
      I did my preparation of this figure in the usual way; soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying.  I then glued the figure to a 1” black-primed fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and glued the washer to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of Elmer’s White Glue.

I started by painting all the armor black.  I then gave it a good drybrushing with Ceramcoat “Metallic Pewter”.

     Next, I painted his waist cape, and the cloth hangings at his front and shoulders  with Anita’s “Violet”and his shield and scabbard with GW “Liche Purple”.

When the purple coats were dry, I gave all the cloth parts that I had painted with the “Violet” a wash with thinned Dark Blue ink. After the ink was good and dry, I went back and highlighted the cloth and the shield with the “Violet”

Now I painted his face with Americana “Shading Flesh”, and his hair, and the grips on his swords, with Americana “Charcoal Grey”.  I then painted his belt, and the back of the shield, with Ceramcoat “Walnut”.

     I next painted the trim on his armor, and the hilts of the swords and base of the scabbard, with Ceramcoat “14k Gold”.

After everything  had had time to dry, I went back and gave his head and the gold areas a wash with thinned GW “Agrax Earthshade”wash.  I then painted his eyes, and added highlights to his face with the “Shading Flesh”.  I also highlighted the gold with the “14K Gold”.  I then painted his sword blade with the “Metallic Pewter”, and when it was dry, I highlighted the top portion of the blade, and his armor, with Folk Art “Silver Sterling”.  Lastly I used some Americana “Dove Grey” to add some gray to his temples and some streaks in his hair to make him look more mature.
   I then hunted through all my old spare sheets of decals, and found a sheet of old Brettonian Knight ones.  I decided on a Pegasus design to match the wings decoration on the front of his armor, and applied it to the shield.  It tore a little while applying it, so I had to go and patch it up with white paint.
    I let the figure sit over night, and the next morning I gave it a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”.  Later that afternoon I flocked the base, and the following day I sprayed it with Testor’s “Dullcote” spray varnish.

I pleased with how the figure turned out.  Even though it is not the most dynamic figure, it has a certain somber seriousness to it. And I think the purple and gold scheme helps bring out his royal bearing.

Figure 115 of 265: Complete

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Bear Yourselves Valiantly will be available soon

Buck

A couple of weeks ago, we sent the files for BYV off to the publisher, On Military Matters.  Last weekend we reviewed two test specimens.  I tweaked the .pdf files as a result of reviewing these proofs and sent them back to On Military Matters.  These should be hitting the streets very soon.

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Gaming at War Horse Farm

Buck

Starting positions for Lvov

Starting positions for Lvov

In previous posts I’ve written about events at which the HAWKs have support Senior Leader Professional Development events and gaming days at Sam Fuson’s War Horse Farm.  One of the unit’s members is heading off to the career course, and as a going away event he requested that we run a Look, Sarge, No Charts:  World War Two game.  How could we turn down such a flattering request?  Since we were running these games in September 2014, it was apropos that we chose two battles that took place in September.

Introducing a younger gamer to the joys of wargaming

Introducing a younger gamer to the joys of wargaming

We elected to reprise our large Lvov scenario.  In this scenario, in September 1939, the Russians and Germans are converging on the Polish city of Lvov.  The Poles, however, may not rest on the defense.  While fighting in two directions to keep the Russians and Germans from linking up, they must also advance to seize German heavy artillery that are shelling Lvov from some high ground.

The action begins to heat up

The action begins to heat up

On the flank shown in the picture (above), Polish horse cavalry and tankettes fought against heavy German armor, halftracks, and infantry to hold a line along a stream.  After some fierce fighting, the tankettes and armored cars were overwhelmed, and the Germans broke through.  They were heading toward the key village of Zboiska when the game ended.

Poles being pushed off a critical hill by the Russians

Poles being pushed off a critical hill by the Russians

On the other flank, the Russian tanks finally broke through another Polish infantry battalion; however, the Poles along another creek and those shown on the hill in the picture (above) managed to strip off most of the Russian infantry support.  When the game ended, the Russian tanks were pushing toward Zboiska as well, despite a pummeling by Polish anti-tank rifles.

When the game ended, the Poles were on the slopes above Lvov destroying the German artillery, and the Russians and Germans were in no position to take Zboiska without a protracted fight.  We declared the game a Polish victory.

Duncan provides the historical context for his WWI game

Duncan provides the historical context for his WWI game

The second game of the day was a WWI game with Duncan’s modification of LSNC: WWII (with elements of A Union So Tested rolled in).  The scenario involved the beginnings of the battles around the Marne in September 1914.  This is a period of history in which I have little knowledge, but I’ve really enjoyed Duncan’s early WWI games.  In this scenario, the French were advancing to seize high ground on the far end of the table, while the Germans had to keep the French as far away from the high ground as possible.

French advance across open ground toward the Hun

French advance across open ground toward the Hun

Despite terrible casualties, the game was a marginal French victory.  The French had an isolated regiment on the high ground and another regiment in position to advance to the high ground (against substantial resistance).  On the French right (show above early in the game before the carnage), however, the French economy-of-force regiment was nearly wiped out and holding onto the village shown in the picture) by the skin of their teeth.

All-in-all, it was a good gaming day!

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Reaper BONES CAV Kickstarter In Its Final 10 Days

Chris Palmer The Reaper CAV Bones Kickstarter has only got a little over a week to go, so now is the time for anyone interested in Big Stompy Robots, or Sci-Fi gaming in general, to get in and be a part of it.

While not in it for the Mechs, I have gone in to this Kickstarter big time, to buy tanks and other vehicles in anticipation of working on the next installment of our “Look, Sarge, No Charts” series of rules, which will be for Sci-Fi mass combat. So, like me, even if you’re not into the CAV rules, there are a lot of other uses for these cheap Mechs and vehicles.
Here’s the link, so folks can go take a look (and pledge!):

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Bonnie: Figure 114 of 265

Chris Palmer

     This past week I completed Bonnie from the Zombie Hunters Set.  This finishes that set, and it joins the list of completed sets over on the right.
      I began my preparation of this figure in the usual way; soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying.  I then glued the figure to a 1” black-primed fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and glued the washer to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of Elmer’s White Glue.

  
Note: The red splash on her arm is just a sloppy drip from something else I was painting!

 I began the painting process by giving the whole figure a wash with very thinned black ink with just a pin head drop of dish soap in it.  This ink wash settles and dries into all the crevices and creases in the figure, and helps me to see all the sculpted detail, so I can keep my paint in the lines. 🙂  
   When the ink wash was good and dry,  I painted her skin with Americana “Mocha”, then I painted her shorts with Aleene’s “Deep Khaki”, and her shirt with Americana “Khaki Tan”.  Lastly, I painted her socks with Aleene’s ”Dusty Khaki”.

 Then, I painted her boots, and belts with Ceramcoat “Walnut”, and the stocks of the two guns on her back with Americana “Charcoal Grey”.  Her hair I painted Accent “Real Umber”.  The wraps on her wirsts I painted with GW “Camo Green”

At this point I gave the whole figure a wash with thinned Winsor-Newton “Peat Brown’ ink.

When the ink was dry, I painted the guns in her hands, and the two in her shoulder holsters, black. I then painted her face, starting with her eyes; first with black sockets, then white “whites” ,and then black pupils.  Her lips I painted with Americana “Shading Flesh”. I then highlighted all her skin with the base “Mocha”. I now went back and did a light dry brush of the black guns with GW “Shadow Grey”. Next, I gave all her clothing highlights with the base colors I had used.  Lastly, I painted her belt buckle and the butts of the two guns on her back with Ceramcoat “Metallic Pewter”.
   I let the figure sit over night, and the next morning I gave it a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”.  Later that afternoon I flocked the base, and the following day I sprayed it with Testor’s “Dullcote” spray varnish.

  Well, I’m not terribly happy with this figure.  I love the dynamic sculpt, but my color selection really made her look washed out.  I don’t think the skin tone goes with the green oriented color scheme of her outfit at all.  The sculpting on her face also was odd.  As with many of the Bones figures, the nose was not fully cast. And her eyes were deeply slanted which, given my lack of painting skills, just turned out making the face look odd rather than mad or determined.

Figure 114 of 265: Complete

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