Monthly Archives: April 2014

Krazy for Kobolds! Figures 83-85 of 265

Chris Palmer

  This week, I completed my next to last three of the Kobolds group from the Dungeon Attack set.  I began in the usual way, with soaking them in some water with a little dish soap added, and then giving them a light scrub with a soft toothbrush and then rinsing them.  When dry, I sprayed them with Krylon Flat Black Camouflage with Fusion spray paint, and when dry, glued them to black-primed 7/8” fender washers with Aleene’s Tacky glue. I then glued the washers to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of Elmer’s white glue.

Before I began painting the first group of Kobolds, I had consulted my old trusty D & D Monster Manual, to see how they had described them.  The manual had said that they were, “…a very dark rusty brown, to a rusty black.”    So,I had decided I wanted to go for the “rusty black” look and so far I had been happy with how this look had been turning out.  I started the usual way for the Kolbolds, by applying a coat of Folk Art “Barnyard Red” to the figures to get the “rusty” look.  Next,  I worked on their clothing, painting their loin cloths Accent “Real Umber”, and the this time I did the rest of the clothing with Folk Art “Burgundy”.

  Their assorted straps I painted with Americana “Mississippi Mud”. The back of the shield I painted DecoArt Cinnamon Brown”; and the shield handle and any pouches they were wearing I painted Americana “Asphaltum”.  For the front of the shield, I used Americana “Cadmium Red”.   I then moved to painting the spear shafts Folk Art “Barn Wood”, and the rope binding on the spears with Americana “Sable Brown”.  I wrapped up the non-metallics on he figures by painting their horns with Americana “Khaki Tan”, and  the skull belt buckles and their teeth and claws, with Americana “Buttermilk”.

Now I painted the stonework bases with Folk Art “Medium Gray”, and I painted the little patches of vegetation on the Spear Kolbold’s base with DecoArt “Forest Green”.  Then, I did  the metal bits; sword, spear points, studs and buckle, with Ceramcoat “Metallic Pewter”, and the armored shoulder pieces on the two with swords using Accent “Princely Pewter”.

After all the paint had a while to dry, I gave the figures a wash with thinned Vallejo “Black” ink. 

I then went back and gave the figures’ skin and clothing highlights with the base colors I had used. I then painted black noses on the Kobolds, and “Cadmium Red” dots for eyes.  I also used the “Buttermilk” to highlight their teeth.   The weapon edges I gave highlights with Folk Art “Silver Sterling”.    After everything had time to dry thoroughly, I gave the figures a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”.  When this was dry, I flocked the bases.  After the bases had overnight to dry, I sprayed the figures with Testor’s “Dullcote”.

Only three more Kolbolds to go!   Then we can get the family photo. 🙂

Figures 83-85: Complete

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More 1/72 Orcs

Rob Dean


I put the final spray coat on another batch of 1/72 orcs today. These are still from the Dark Alliance Orcs 2 set, and this gives me enough to try a 1/72 Song of Blades and Heroes game.

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Screaming Eagles

Buck

The American Screaming Eagle Squadron

The American Screaming Eagle Squadron

I finally finished my American WWII infantry riding on giant American eagles.  In an earlier post I mentioned how I was able to get Major Objective painting service to mold and paint the riders for me.  The eagles were collected from flea markets over the past few years.

Nazis on Pterodactyls Against the Screaming Eagles

Nazis on Pterodactyls Against the Screaming Eagles

All of this effort was to have opponents for my Eureka Nazis.

The American Screaming Eagle Squadron

The American Screaming Eagle Squadron

The delay in finishing this project was bases.  I ran out of Games Workshop flight stands.  It turns out that none of the hobby stores in the area had any in stock.  I was going to mount them on the round, wooden bases you see in the picture above.  I get these from a guy at Historicon who sells as many wooden bases as you can stuff in a Chinese takeout container for a fixed price.  All I really wanted was the clear plastic rods.  So, I ordered a ten-pack of plastic rods from Tower Hobbies.  They arrived in three days, and I finished this project this weekend.  I think they look pretty cool.

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Rating Vehicles in G.A.M.E.R.

Buck

Since the vehicle test went relatively well last week, I’ve been thinking about how to develop the armor and penetration numbers for the vehicles.  Here’s my thinking:

Information on armor in various parts of a vehicle can be gathered on the internet and other sources.  As this isn’t meant to be a published project, I will just do this for a handful of vehicles.  Then anyone who wants to stat up another vehicle can do so, using the formulas.  Sometimes what is reported is just the front hull.  Other times what is reported is a range (e.g., the armor on the Panther varied between 10mm and 120mm), leaving the reader to guess that 10mm was the rear hull, the turret and side armor were in the middle somewhere (about 50 – 55mm), etc.

Armor:

To compute the armor number in G.A.M.E.R., take mm or armor, round up to nearest 10, divide by 10, and add 4.  As an example, the frontal armor on a M4E8 “Easy Eight” was about 178mm, making it one of the heaviest armored vehicle fronts of the war.  A standard M4 (earliest model) was about 75mm.  Different Sherman versions varied between these two extremes.  Let’s start with the Easy Eight.  The frontal hull armor would be 178 -> 180, 180 /10 = 18, 18 + 4 = 22.  Using the same formula, the M4 would be 12.

Now that result is just a meaningless number until you look at penetration.

Penetration:

(Just for reference, rifles have a penetration of 1 and pistols 0.)

At short, medium, and long ranges, take the book value for penetration, round up to the nearest 10 and divide by 10.  As an example, the 88mm KwK 36 L/56, depending on ammunition used, had a penetration of about 120mm at 500m.  So 120 / 10 = 12.  Another example:  An ATR at short range had a penetration of about 35mm.  That would be 35 -> 40 /10 = 4.

Putting it together:

An early Tiger with an 88mm KwK 36 L/56 gun hits the front of an M4 Sherman.  The Tiger rolls d10 and adds the penetration of 12.  Let’s say he rolls a 5, that is a result of 17.  17 is greater than the 12 armor on the front of the M4, so the hit penetrates.  If he had rolled a 1, that would automatically be a “bounce.”

That same Tiger with the same roll of 5 would NOT penetrate the front of the Easy Eight.  In fact, the 88mm KwK 36 L/56 would need to hit the side or turret to penetrate, as the front of the Easy Eight is just too thick.

The ATR fired at the Sherman would have a penetration of 43.  If the player rolled an 8 for penetration, that would give a result of 12 compared to an armor of 12, which would indicate no penetration.

Yes, I know that not all armor is created equal, but it’s a good enough approximation for what is meant to be a fun skirmish game.  Of course people could fiddle with the stats to handicap their favorite vehicle.

With these formulas, anyone using the rules can quickly create the stats for their vehicles and get playing.  And I don’t have to spend the next two years doing it myself and then listening to people complain about the stats I gave their favorite vehicles.  If it was known that a particular vehicle had a weak area, the results of the formulas can be modified to suit the players’ perceptions.

The next step is to build the formulas to determine the movement speed in the game based on the real tank’s quoted stats.

I’ve also added another attribute to vehicles.  It is the maximum number of elevations that a vehicle can go UP in a single activation.  I was reading somewhere recently that the Germans were constantly surprised at the climbing ability of the Sherman.  (Of course it was a medium tank, not one of heavy tank like self-loathing American and Brits with axe to grind like to compare with the Sherman.)  So the Sherman might have a max climb of 2, while most other tanks might be a 1.  Or perhaps those numbers are 3 and 2.  I’m still working on it, but if you think about this simple mechanic, I think you’ll see how elegant it is.

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Last Days of the First Empire Scenario Book

Buck

Announcing the upcoming release of this exciting new scenario book for war gamers.  

Napoleon’s 1814 campaign is little known, often treated as a footnote between Leipzig and the Hundred Days.  Many Napoleonic gamers have read that Napoleon demonstrated his old genius but was overwhelmed by numbers.  The research Dave Wood did on this scenario book allow you to experience these battles yourself.  Players will find that the situations presented are interesting and fun.  Last Days of the First Empire brings you 12 historical scenarios from this interesting campaign.

The battles can be played separately or linked to play the entire campaign.

Although the book was written with Fate of Battle: Look, Sarge, No Charts: Napoleonic Wars in mind, the scenarios are written to enable players to use any set of Napoleonic rules.

Last Days of the First Empire will be published by On Military Matters in the near future.

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Bear Yourselves Valiantly Driving Toward Completion

Buck

The team that brought you other popular titles in the Look, Sarge, No Charts family of rules (Surdu, Wood, and Palmer) are working toward a Summer release of this new title.  The book will be published by On Military Matters.

We have teamed with Magister Militum to and their upcoming release of a terrific line of 10mm fantasy figures to go along with their existing ancient line of figures.

For more information, check out our Web page.

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Candlesticks: Figure(s) 82 of 265

Chris Palmer

Over the weekend I painted up the two standing candle holders from the Dungeon Dressing set. I’m only counting it as one figure though for purposes of my count off, because there is only one shown in the original Kickstarter Vampire Set photo, on which I based my total figure count for this blog.
   To begin, I soaked them for a few hours in a some water with a little dish soap added, then gave them a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and rinsed and dried them.  I then glued them each to a 7/8” black-primed fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue.  I glued both the washers to a tongue depressor using a couple drops of Elmer’s white glue.

I began by painting both the candle holders and the bases black.

I then drybrushed them both with a little Folk Art “Metallic Blue Sapphire” to give them a bit of a metallic sheen to help the illusion that they are made of iron.  I then painted the candles with Americana “Buttermilk”.

Next, I gave the candles highlights with some plain white, and I painted the flames with Apple Barrel “Lemon Chiffon”.

I then painted the outer edge of the flames with  a little Apple Barrel “Yellow”, followed by a bit of Americana “Tangerine”, and lastly a lick of GW “Blood Red” at the top.  To finish off, I painted the stone base of the model, and the fender washer with Americana Mississippi Mud”, as I like it’s neutral gray-tan color for bases to use on either stone or wood floors.  After everything had overnight to dry, I gave them a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”.  The next day I sprayed them with some Testor’s Dullcote”.

I’m basically pleased with how these turned out.  They were quick and easy pieces to complete.

Figure(s) 62 of 265: Complete

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10mm War of the Roses Project

Chris Palmer At the end of last year I started a 10mm War of the Roses project so I would have a historical set of armies to run games with our soon-to-be-released rules for mass fantasy, medieval and ancient combat, entitled; “Bear Yourselves Valiantly”.  I thought I would take this opportunity to post some example pictures of a few of the units I’ve completed so far.

Halbardiers

Dismounted knights

Longbowman

Command stand

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