Monthly Archives: September 2013

Painting the Bones Rust Monster: Figure 36 of 265

Chris Palmer

This week I painted the Bones Rust Monster from the Original 30 Bones Set. As way of preparing to paint this figure, I got out my old 70’s era D&D Monster Manual  to read a little about these monsters, to see if there was any kind of description as to coloring.  Unfortunately, there was not, but I did learn that they were rather un-aggressive beasts who dwell in deep dark subterranean places, going about their business of finding metal to munch on.  So, as I pondered what colors to paint my Rust Monster, the idea came in my mind of the pale pigment-less animals that you find in dark areas where the sun doesn’t shine; and so I decided to give this look a try, as it would be something a little different.
   I began as usual, by washing the figure in some dish-washing soap, and then gluing it to a black primed 1” fender washer.  I then glued the washer to half a tongue depressor with a drop of white glue.
(Click on any photo to view it larger.)

As far as color, the name of the beast lead me to think in terms of reddish-brown. So to begin with I gave the whole thing a wash with Iron Wind Metals’ “Chestnut Brown” Ink.  I used the ink full strength without water to dilute it. I had some issue with the ink beading on the Bones material, so I had to go back and apply more ink in the areas where it hadn’t stuck the first time.  Eventually I got the whole thing covered

When the ink had dried I gave the figure a drybrushing with Folk Art “Almond Parfait” paint. I then added some White  to the “Almond Parfait” ,and gave a light highlighting drybrush to the figure with this mixture.

I then painted the claws with GW “Fortress Grey”  and the monster’s “mouth” with GW “Tanned Flesh”.  I then wanted to add some sort of decoration to the plain bland body.  As I was looking at the tail I noticed how it kind of looked like a face, and this gave me  the idea of adding a pair of “false eyes” camouflage to the tail.  After all, inhabiting dungeons with much meaner, hungrier, beasts, the Rust Monster probably developed some sort of survival tricks; and what better in dim dungeon light, then a pair of “false eyes” on your tail to confuse attackers as you run away.  So I painted two dark brown spots on the tail with Accent “Real Umber”, and likewise, I painted the monster’s eyes with the same color. I then added “pupils” to the false eyes by painting two white dots in the center of the dark spots. For the real eyes, I decided I actually wanted the brown dots to be the pupils, so I added a rim around them with GW “Blood Red”.   I then added a tiny white fleck to the pupils to give them a shiny look.
    I then gave a wash of GW “Devlan Mud” wash to the claws and mouth.  When this had dried, I added some highlights with the original colors. I then painted the base with Americana “Mississippi Mud”

I let the figure and base dry overnight, then I painted the whole thing with Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish”.  When this had had time to dry, I sprayed the figure with Testor’s “Dullcoat.”

Overall I’m pleased with how it looks.  It definitely came out looking strange, like something you’d find under a rock,(if not something like a boiled shrimp).  🙂

Figure 36 of 265; Complete

via All Bones About It

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More Russians and Some Really Useful Boxes


Eight new battalions of Russian infantry in a "really useful box"

Eight new battalions of Russian infantry in a “really useful box”

I recently finished eight more battalions of Russian infantry.  To finish the VII and VIII corps, I just need to complete several regiments of cavalry and many leaders.  It takes 30 figures to make an infantry battalion but only 10 for a cavalry regiment, so I suspect it won’t take long to complete the order of battle.  I’ve figures out what I need to order from Old Glory and will probably place the order soon.

You can get a tray the 4-liter Really Useful Box

You can get a tray the 4-liter Really Useful Box

I have been storing my 10mm figures in cardboard, computer keyboard boxes.  With 10mm WWII there are only 10 infantry figures on a base.  The density of figures for Napoleonic bases is much higher, and the cardboard boxes are beginning to crush.  I mentioned that I was looking for something better, and my buddy Mark turned me on to Really Useful Boxes.  After perusing their Web page, I determined that the 4-liter box would be the right size.  With the lipped tray, you get two roughly equal height storage levels that are perfect size for 10mm infantry, artillery, cavalry, or leaders.

The closed box with figures on the bottom, figures in the tray, and the top closed

The closed box with figures on the bottom, figures in the tray, and the top closed

Here is what the box looks like when it’s closed.  One of these boxes is shorter, but slightly taller than the thin keyboard boxes I’ve been using.  They also store a few more figures than the keyboard boxes.  For 10mm WWII, I put two battalions in a cardboard box.   It will be excellent to put two battalions in one of these, one on each level.  Then I can just hand a player either a box without the tray or a tray without the box, and he will have his total command.  Two players won’t have to fight for access to their keyboard box with another player, particularly when they enter the game on different table sides.

One of these 4-liter boxes will be just about right for most of my 28mm figures with the trays inside, but any figures that have their arms or anything else above their heads will only fit if you don’t use the second-story tray.  They also make two more boxes that are slightly taller but have the same footprint at the 4-liter boxes.  I was thinking that one of these with the tray would enable me to store the taller figures on the bottom level and the shorter figures on the top level.

On their Web page, these boxes are $15 each, but at Staples I can get the boxes for $8 each.  The trays are an additional $4, but you must order them on line, as neither Staples, Office Depot, nor Office Max carry any of the inserts for the boxes.  The boxes are much more sturdy than the cardboard ones, and after I fully convert — in several years — my shelves will have a pleasing, uniform appearance.

via Buck’s Blog

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World War II Skirmish Ideas, part 7


If you have been following this series of posts, you’ll recall that I am developing some concepts for a new skirmish-level World War II game.  In previous posts, I’ve provided examples of some of the action cards as they’ve evolved.  Above is a sample unit record sheet for a player.  Note that each player is supposed to lead a squad, consisting of two half squads for most countries.  (Marines, on the contrary, divided their squads into three teams.  One might also argue that a US Army squad was divided into three teams as well.)

Below is an example of a vehicle record.  This is very early in development of a vehicle record, as I haven’t thought through all the vehicle rules yet.  I am also desperately in need of another play test of the basic infantry rules.

Note that the layout of the “back” of the vehicle card.  This is designed to give the players guidance on how to resolve the various results of hit location from the action deck.  I would guess that after a game or two most of the back of this card will be no longer needed.  I am hoping to develop some fun items for the non-penetrating hit table.  Also, I think that any penetrating hit will also include a roll on the non-penetratin hit chart.  I’m not artist, but I’m trying to lay out the back of the card in a way that is intuitive.  What do you think?

To this point in development, the only need for a die has been to roll for movement distance each turn.  To resolve these kinds of combat effects, I think I will put a 1 through 10 in the top right corner of each card.  You could then flip a card to “roll” a d10.  If players prefer, they could also use a d10 already sitting on the table for movement instead of flipping a card.

via Buck’s Blog

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Mimic in Treasure Chest Form: Figure 35 of 265

Chris Palmer

This week I painted the Mimic figure that is disguised as a treasure chest. I began by soaking the figure in some dish soap to remove the mold release agent, and then rinsed it well.  Next, I trimmed a little off the bottom back of its monopod foot, as the figure leaned too far forward in my opinion, and I wanted it to stand more upright. Next, I tried to trim the flash from the figure’s teeth as best I could.  I then glued it to a black primed 1 inch fender washer, and mounted it on half a tongue depressor, for ease of painting, with a drop of white glue.
  Remember, you can click any photo to see it larger.

 I began by giving the chest a coat of very thinned Americana “Asphaltum” paint, so it would act more as a stain than an opaque coating.  When dry, I painted the parts of the figure that were beginning to reveal themselves as the monster with Aleene’s “Deep Khaki” paint.

Next I painted the gums and tongue with GW “Tanned Flesh”, then the teeth with Americana “Buttermilk, and finally the bottom of the chest’s interior with Ceramcoat “14k Gold”.  I then painted the hinges and handles with Ceramcoat “Bronze”, and lastly the claws with GW “Fortress Gray”.

After everything had dried, I gave the whole figure a wash with GW “Devlan Mud” wash. When this dried I went back and added highlights to the teeth with, first, the “Buttermilk” again, and then plain white with a bit of the “Buttermilk” mixed in.  The tongue and gums I highlighted with just the “Tanned Flesh”  The monster bits I highlighted with Aleene’s “Dusty Khaki”. And, the claws were highlighted with Americana “Dove Grey”.  The metals I highlighted with just their base colors. Finally, I add two eyes with GW “Blood Red”, giving each a little white highlight.

Lastly, I painted the washer with Americana “Mississippi Mud”, which is a nice neutral grayish-tan; so it wouldn’t look too out of place in a dungeon, tavern, or outdoors (breaking the ‘habitat’ rules, I know, but why limit my imagination 🙂 ).

When all was thoroughly dry, I gave everything a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish” and left it to dry overnight.  I then sprayed it with Testor’s “Dullcoat”. 

I included this shot as it gives a nice view of the claws emerging from the chest’s handle, which I think is a nice little touch on this neat sculpt.

I’m very pleased with this figure. My only complaint is the mold line running across the top teeth, making it very problematic to trim flash from them, and you can still see hints of it on the finished product. But overall, a very satisfactory monster, and easy to paint.

Figure 35 of 265: Complete

via All Bones About It

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